M1010 somebody talk me down

[riggermedic]

Starts, runs, drives and shifts nice, new injector pump, new injectors, and vacuum pump. I don't know anything about axels, but like the higher gearing. Opinions?
i am highly impressed that you guys picked that out from the pics

 

[Rustyshackelford]

Seems like there's been a lot of hack-a-lackin. If you buy it, make sure you're comfortable with everything he chopped up.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

Looks like 3/4 ton axels not 1 ton. But I'm no expert.

 

[Recovry4x4]

They are certainly 3/4 ton. If you don't plan on big tires or off roading, you should be just fine. Finding a full float rear would be much easier than the 60 front. Would be much better for highway driving. What would your plans be for it? If it's a solid body, it might be a good buy but the truck did lose $2000 in value with the axle swap. In my opinion, the asking price is too high for what you have there.

 

[riggermedic]

I have a 1009 that is in beautiful condition. I have been adding things to this, but am trying to keep it original as possible (i.e. No hacking). Thread is riggermedics 1009 for pics.
This one is not really returnable to stock configuration, the box is a complete tear out along with all of the wiring. The dash is frightening and underhood is a nightmare. On the great side, I get to play circuit by circuit to make it mine. It does have some pretty cool red wigwam lights where the bo drive light and NATO slave plug was.
as far as use... I don't really 4x4 other than some trails and camping. I think this would be a great camper build.
having said all that I am really thinking a full 12 volt conversion would probably be the way to go (insert gasp).
for highway and basic trail use, are the axels good enough?
how pricy would it be to rig up the ac as 12 volt? (It's gutted right now)
the seller will work with me on the price, I think I'm going to jump
thank you for your comments and advice, this site and its members are a wealth of knowledge and a true asset

 

[Recovry4x4]

Lets see, for road use and mild trails I think the axles will be fine. It kind of looks like it was rigged to 12V in a way. Keeping it 24V would be fairly easy as well. In reference to the A/C, are you referring to the pt compartment A/C? See some options and ideas in this thread! http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?89571-M1010-is-running&highlight=m1010

 

[Skinny]

If you don't plan on wheeling it, the axles are fine if the guy can really work on the price. I would absolutely check the ratios and make sure they match. The M1010 is pretty heavy and making into a camper will make it even worse. Pay very close to your GVW especially with the smaller 3/4 ton axles.

 

[riggermedic]

In my recent searching I seem to have missed that thread. Great info. I was thinking of what to do with the box ac. I am kinda digging the front ac with a inverter powered electric in the box. Originally I was asking what it would cost to get the box ac running as 12 volt using the stock compressor as I am missing all the guts. I am kind of a traditionalist, but with all the hacking done and the box missing everything, I think it may be best to get a 12 volt starter and say goodbye to all 24 volt stuff on this one. I can run 2 12 volt alt 1 for the truck and another for a house bank and keep them separate. Just throwing ideas. I understand 12 volt, I get confused in the 12/24 mix. I love th dual batteries per mount idea.

 

[riggermedic]

Just for clarification. When people change gear ratios they normally change the gears in the pumpkin and not the whole axel right? I guess you could do it both ways? But preferred changing the pumpkin internal to a lesser rated axel swap?

 

[riggermedic]

Man my apartment manager is going to be pissed... 1009, 101a2, my hoopty Grand Prix and now a 1010? Time to buy a house with a big yard, an rv gate and no home owners association..... Or maybe a deuce???
im an addict

 

[M37M35]

Just for clarification. When people change gear ratios they normally change the gears in the pumpkin and not the whole axel right? I guess you could do it both ways? But preferred changing the pumpkin internal to a lesser rated axel swap?

Correct. Someone probably had those axles laying around or got them cheap, and figured it was easier to swap the whole axle.

Those axles should hold up fine if you're not gonna go crazy with it. My first truck had that same rear axle. It was a 3/4 ton ext. cab 6.2L standard trans 4x4. I added a turbo off a 6.5 and an auxiliary trans, and have towed and hauled a lot with it. Never had to touch the axle.

Here's a few pics of my farm truck with those same axles, and you can see what it holds up to. Haven't done a thing to those axles either.

Edit: Well... Pics didn't work. Hold on...

 

[M37M35]

Try this. The board won't let me upload pictures.

http://s628.photobucket.com/user/cool4x4guy/library/SS

 

[cucvrus]

I don't know what it has to do with the riggers M1010. But I like the WOOD. I hope you have a good log splitter. i have an Iron & Oak log splitter with a 6 HP Yanmar Diesel engine on it. I had to be different. No one else I know has a Diesel log splitter. Cool pictures of the trucks and trailers loaded with wood. Not so cool stuck. I like the doubles. I use 2 CUCV pickups and cut 2 loads of wood at a time and tow a trailer. Never knew if it was legal or not. Rigger if the M1010 runs and drives I would buy it. You can make a pick-up truck out of it if all else fails. there are plenty of CUCV M1009 M1008 wiring harnesses and parts out there to do the switch over. Nothing like a good diesel 4 X 4 pickup truck. Very useful. Good Luck. Have a great day.

 

[M37M35]

I don't know what it has to do with the riggers M1010. But I like the WOOD. I hope you have a good log splitter. i have an Iron & Oak log splitter with a 6 HP Yanmar Diesel engine on it. I had to be different. No one else I know has a Diesel log splitter. Cool pictures of the trucks and trailers loaded with wood. Not so cool stuck. I like the doubles. I use 2 CUCV pickups and cut 2 loads of wood at a time and tow a trailer. Never knew if it was legal or not. Rigger if the M1010 runs and drives I would buy it. You can make a pick-up truck out of it if all else fails. there are plenty of CUCV M1009 M1008 wiring harnesses and parts out there to do the switch over. Nothing like a good diesel 4 X 4 pickup truck. Very useful. Good Luck. Have a great day.

He asked about the axles. The pics show what they have held up to for me. The ext. cab truck has the same rear axle, and the truck with the doubles has the same front and rear axles as was swapped into the M1010 Riggermedic is looking at.

...for highway and basic trail use, are the axels good enough?...

A diesel log splitter is cool. My dad built a BIG log splitter that we use. It'll probably get a Kubota diesel on it, but we run it off the tractor for now. Riggermedic, sorry for the detour.

 

[riggermedic]

Bought it, $2250. At the mvd right now, wish me luck. Pics soon to come

 

[Recovry4x4]

I think you did great!

 

[riggermedic]

So I got a title
now she won't start, got a buddy coming out to help
weak batteries. Does anyone know what the fuel pump looking thing is on the driver side firewall is, it's clicking up a storm
let the 1010 education begin

 

[Recovry4x4]

That is the fuel pump for the rear compartment heater. Usually comes one when heater is running. Unplug it, you don't need it. Until you sort out your charging system, pack a jump box with you. I can't see any way of keeping things working right just running off that lower alt.

 

[Skinny]

I would HIGHLY suggest not doing a single thing including starting it until you do some serious research and maintenance. Go through the starting, charging, and fuel system before going further. The last thing you want is a starter cracking the block due to loose bolts, a melted wire harness due to hack jobs, or malfunctioning glow plugs.

 

[riggermedic]

It is parked now. I live in an apartment in Phoenix az, I can't park it unless the tags are current so I had to get it inspected and titled. The batteries are cheap 600 cranking amps each, brand new, but woefully underpowered as I understand. I will be going thru the electrical this next week and am strongly considering a full 12 volt conversion, there is nothing in the box other than hacked wiring and a gutted ac unit, so I don't think this one is realistically returnable to stock configuration. Bright side it's 85 degrees out and only getting hotter so the glow plugs aren't drawing much.
I will start a new thread tomorrow, or can I rename this thread to Riggermedics 1010 build?
thank you for all of your advice and assistance