rustystud
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Yes a fuel rated ball valve would be the ticket. I believe most poly valves are fuel rated. The brass ones with polyethylene seals.
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That would work. Very messy, but would work.When I got mine running recently, I had a board ready to cover the intake to the turbo. I hadn't read this, I'm lucky I didn't need to. What about just taking a knife to the inlet line to the fuel density compensator or hydraulic head?
Which of the three way valves to use? any pictures?Yes a fuel rated ball valve would be the ticket. I believe most poly valves are fuel rated. The brass ones with polyethylene seals.
Could use a 24 volt solenoid valve after the fuel filters wired parallel with intank fuel pump. All youWhich of the three way valves to use? any pictures?
I like it, might as well connect it to the fuel shutoff on the IP while we're at it, eh?Could use a 24 volt solenoid valve after the fuel filters wired parallel with intank fuel pump. All you
have to do is what comes naturally, and that is flip the in cab stop switch off. All fuel sources are stopped.
Wont leaving A open, B closed and C open just went fuel into the air and soaking the engine compartment in Diesel/MF content?. I would think leaving A Closed, but B & C open would make more sense and would make the engine suck air.There is such a thing as a three way valve, having two positions. and consisting of three ports: A, B, and C. Port "A" is connected to the fuel tank, Port "B" is connected to the Injector Pump, and Port "C" is to atmosphere. In the ENGINE RUN position. port "A" is open to port "B" and fuel goes to Injector Pump. Port "C" is closed. In ENGINE STOP position, port "A" (tank) remains open but port "B" ( Injector Pump) is closed while port "C" ( atmosphere) opens, so that the inlet to the Injector pump sucks air and hopefully the runaway engine will stop immediately. The uploaded picture and specification sheet shows such a valve as an example , but it remains to be verified that this or any valve is fuel rated.
Any valve with "WOG" ( Water-Oil-Gas) engraved on it should be fine.Which of the three way valves to use? any pictures?
It has been a while since you posted this note. I was wondering, how did the shutoff valve work for you? It seemed like a great idea and I was thinking of doing the same.I ran my truck for a year with a bad fuel tank pump. The pump on the injector unit is capable of running your truck. What I'm going to do now is install a shut-off valve after the fuel filters. That way I could just open the engine side cover and reach in and shut off the valve in case of a runaway.
It works great. I have some pictures somewhere I just cannot find them now. I will take some pictures tomorrow for you. I did post them here though if you want to look.It has been a while since you posted this note. I was wondering, how did the shutoff valve work for you? It seemed like a great idea and I was thinking of doing the same.
Thank you for that, (So), This weekend the apprentices WILL be fitting Shut Off valves as described to ALL our fleet. (Obliged).I know this doesn't help you right now, but your accident will I'm sure help someone in the future from going down this dark road. I for one will be installing that fuel shut-off after the fuel filters !
Correct it needs to be controlled from the cab.Doesn't seem like a shut off valve would kill a runaway multifuel fast enough.
How hard is it to get out of the cab, open the engine compartment side cover and turn a handle ? I suppose I could install a cable to pull the handle. As far as how fast it shuts-off the motor. It's under 2 seconds. Once the fuel in the pump is gone that's it.Correct it needs to be controlled from the cab.
This was a better Idea if you worry and controlled from the cab. Thanks Orren.Could use a 24 volt solenoid valve after the fuel filters wired parallel with intank fuel pump. All you
have to do is what comes naturally, and that is flip the in cab stop switch off. All fuel sources are stopped.
So as a near future M35A2 owner, as long as it starts and runs fine when I pick it up & I don't mess with the IP, I should not have to worry any about a runaway? I'm already planning to pick up a CO2 extinguisher to have with me when I drive the truck home (1700mi).Respectfully yes they can just take off. Yes there has been a case where someone did some thing wrong after working on the IP. Most runaway's are caused by fuel control assembely sticking because of built up on the services from sitting and engine cut off left in instead out locked out. Ok 2 seconds add the 10 to 15 seconds to get to the valve from cab if there is not a helper to push the start button. If you do not know how long a motor has been sitting how hard is it to pull off shut down cover ( two flat screws) and check if fuel control is free or bound up. If it was running fine yesterday chances are it will be fine tomorrow. I prefer to know what is going to happen than guess what is going to happen. As always it's your truck do with it what you will just agreed with Razor I want control from the cab. As for the IP's that runaway after working on them maybe the person who worked on it should not have.
Thanks for the photos. I think I will need to fit something to work from the cab since I'm guessing that opening the side panel on the hood will be a bit tough with the snorkel installed.I found two pictures I took. Yes I still have my "Fuel Density Compensator" installed. I actually like having it. I plan on tearing one of my spare pumps down and figure out a way to prevent fuel and oil mixing. There has to be a way to separate them besides a highly machined surface.
Wrong side. The panel you open is the drivers side.Thanks for the photos. I think I will need to fit something to work from the cab since I'm guessing that opening the side panel on the hood will be a bit tough with the snorkel installed.
As far as replacing my "Fuel Density Compensator" just because it might cause a problem, I don't think so. There is a valid reason to keep it on the truck. I plan on exploring ways to prevent any fuel and oil mixing. Now if tomorrow for some reason the FDC starts to leak into the oil then I will take it off for now. Since my truck and engine was built in 1988 it still is a pretty new injection pump. Most guys rigs here are much older and probably more abused. Mine was treated pretty good at the Air-Force base here in Washington State. I was very lucky to get such a nice truck. Also it was the last lot of deuces sold here in WA. so I'm thinking they keep the best ones till last.This was a better Idea if you worry and controlled from the cab. Thanks Orren.
Another good Idea is leave the engine kill pulled out and locked after shut down. If the fuel control does bind up it is bound in the no fuel position. This should be SOP. Maybe checking the fuel control ( removing the shut down cover) should be a thing done every so often.
Also need to bypass your FDC as this two is SOP. No reason to have it only problems if it is left in the system.
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