Question - assistance converting air park/emergency valves to single unit

[jtron79]

You should have an industrial hose supplier in your area. Any place that deals with hydraulic lines should carry air line stuff. We have a company locally called pacific rubber, they carry the same dot fitting for $3-$4.

 

[Overdrive]

Need to post another couple of pics later in the original post. Got the new valve and verified it has 1/4" NPT female fittings. However the air lines from the truck are 3/8" OD compression so a strait male to male 1/4" NPT won't work.

 

[Overdrive]

to connect the air lines to valve. use DOT connectors. threaded on one end and push the tubing into the other. they are cheaper locally if you have a hose supplier or big rig parts store. hose barbs are not approved and your safety is at stake.

https://www.grainger.com/product/PARKER-Male-Connector-11K651?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/11K651_AS01?$smthumb$

I almost picked up one of these but the single i needed to replace was cheaper.

Great job on the pics.

Jason

Jason, ok I am running around trying to locate fittings and you have me worried on the DOT approved front. Reread your post and absolutely not going to use barbed fitting for the lines. I have found a 3/8" compression to 1/4" NPT fitting at Home Depot but the truck fitting will not screw on to the new fitting. I cut off one of the air lines from the original small interconnecting tubes and it fits perfectly in the compression fitting on the new HD fitting. Seems like it will work well... but now I am uneasy since it's not DOT. Might use this for now and order a set of the press in fittings from Grainger you posted.

UPDATE: ***** THIS IS A NO-GO DO NOT USE THIS SETUP USING A COMPRESSION FITTING FROM A HARDWARE STORE**** work in progress so I will updated original post when I get this completed.


Here is a pic of what I am talking about. The left side is the stock compression fitting. Right side is the new fitting from HD. The compression nut is inside the new fitting so it compresses (obviously) when tightened just incase your wondering since you can't see it on the right side fitting.


... Went ahead and ordered the DOT push on connectors from Grainger. Should be here tomorrow. I want to error on the side of caution and safety.

https://www.grainger.com/product/PARKER-Male-Connector-11K656

Need to get this wrapped up so I can finish my radiator drain and fill with CAT ELC along with heater swap out for AC and engine block heater... Triple play work sequence!

OD

 

[juanprado]

Jason, ok I am running around trying to locate fittings and you have me worried on the DOT approved front. Reread your post and absolutely not going to use barbed fitting for the lines. I have found a 3/8" compression to 1/4" NPT fitting at Home Depot but the truck fitting will not screw on to the new fitting. I cut off one of the air lines from the original small interconnecting tubes and it fits perfectly in the compression fitting on the new HD fitting. Seems like it will work well... but now I am uneasy since it's not DOT. Might use this for now and order a set of the press in fittings from Grainger you posted.

Here is a pic of what I am talking about. The left side is the stock compression fitting. Right side is the new fitting from HD. The compression nut is inside the new fitting so it compresses (obviously) when tightened just incase your wondering.
View attachment 614402

The commercial fitting is not designed for the hose insert tip. Air brake fittings are slightly different seat. Ferules are also different with a lip on each side where regular plumbing fittings are smooth. DOT fittings are stamped with id. Any hd parts store or NAPA can hook you up. Air brake fittings can be push on style or the crush ferule with hose insert tip and compression nut. Just make sure they say DOT and are made by a HD truck brand like weatherhead/eaton, aeroquip, parker , haldex etc.

 

[jjb]

Jason, ok I am running around trying to locate fittings and you have me worried on the DOT approved front. Reread your post and absolutely not going to use barbed fitting for the lines. I have found a 3/8" compression to 1/4" NPT fitting at Home Depot but the truck fitting will not screw on to the new fitting. I cut off one of the air lines from the original small interconnecting tubes and it fits perfectly in the compression fitting on the new HD fitting. Seems like it will work well... but now I am uneasy since it's not DOT. Might use this for now and order a set of the press in fittings from Grainger you posted.

Here is a pic of what I am talking about. The left side is the stock compression fitting. Right side is the new fitting from HD. The compression nut is inside the new fitting so it compresses (obviously) when tightened just incase your wondering.
View attachment 614402

... Went ahead and ordered the DOT push on connectors from Grainger. Should be here tomorrow. I want to error on the side of caution and safety.

https://www.grainger.com/product/PARKER-Male-Connector-11K656

OD

I have found the DOT fittings at the local diesel repair/parts places.

 

[Overdrive]

Yep, thanks guys. I updated that last post and just ordered the push on fitting from Grainger, DOT approved. Should have thought to check NAPA but I agree on all points. Don't use rigged-up hardware dealing with brakes and air lines.

Thanks!
OD

 

[jtron79]

Great job OD! Sorry i was late in posting but glad it worked out. I was going to offer to buy them locally and ship them.

 

[Overdrive]

you rock! and thank you... its going to be funny when I get this done if the end write up is buy these 4 fittings and 2 plugs; mark the truck lines pull the stock valves; cut the compression fittings off the truck lines and plug them into the new fittings and valve then enjoy.... Hilarious!

at 15 bucks on eBay I may buy another complete valve and throw it in the spare parts bin on the truck just in case... these valves sell in the retail market for over $200! God bless military surplus UPDATE: Just ordered another $15 bucks shipped.

Thanks so much for everyone's help. I am not done yet and will update once the fittings get here.
OD

 

[Overdrive]

Dang IT!!! Just found the push-on connectors on Amazon for half the price of Grainger when you include tax and shipping I paid... DOT approved and everything.

http://www.amazon.com/Weatherhead-1...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Amazon search did not find them. I was looking at a different connector and found these down in the "similar products" listing....

 

[jtron79]

I found very low priced seller so i picked up a couple valves. Now i just need to pick up my fittings and follow along.

 

[Overdrive]

Ok I am stumped here...
Installed the valve with res2 and aux ports plugged. Supply, exhaust, trailer, and tractor lines connected.

When I fire up the truck with the park prake valve out, applied, it vents air out the exhaust port in front of the radiator. Push the park in, off, air stops venting and truck builds and holds full air pressure.

Thought I crossed the trailer, park lines so changed my diagram and swapped the lines... No go. I had the lines right the first time so rev2 of diagram is incorrect. Bottom, park valve still vents to exhaust when pulled out and stops venting when pushed in.

First guess is something is up with capping res2 and aux ports on valve. I will triple check the connections.

Good times, good times.

Push on fittings work excellent and going to cut new air lines that are longer with push fittings on both ends. Will add that to writeup when I figure the venting issue out.

OD

 

[Overdrive]

The stock lines are stupid short and very difficult to mate up to the push fittings so I figured out the trick to give yourself enough slack for the valve hookup. Disconnect the lines under the dash one at a time (and label) to give the slack you need being careful not to pull the line too far behind the bulkhead.

This is the reason why I am going to replace the lines with longer hose.
OD

 

[jtron79]

When you push park in and it stops venting are the brakes released?

 

[jtron79]

Im kind of thinking res 2 needs to be plumbed in to air source. Like park and trailer are setup for seperate source and needs t instead of plug.

 

[Overdrive]

I will check that tomorrow. Doing a coolant flush right now switching to CAT ELC coolant so can't fire up the truck since radiator is draining now...

Both valves are getting air with just res1. Both will push in and hold which would not occur if the valve is not getting air. Might try calling HALDEX tomorrow.

 

[Overdrive]

The lines are still reversed between trailer and tractor so I should be able to test park brakes apply and release tomorrow.

I get what your saying to add a T push fitting on supply line so it can feed res1 and res2.

 

[jtron79]

Only thing i can think of unless the valve is faulty. Were the brakes releasing?

 

[Overdrive]

I didn't check that just listened for the air release sound... didn't put it in drive... I know the upper park/emergency lights are always on with the bottom two park/emer go out when I push in the lower valve.

Called Haldex tech line... less than worthless. Had no idea whether or not res 1 and res2 have to have air and why it would be venting out exhaust when park applied... very worthless.

I ordered a T fitting from Amazon will be here on Friday but new air line won't get here till Monday so it will be a couple of days before I make another update.


That is the only two things I can think of as well, bad valve or needs to have air going to res2.

Thanks!

 

[Lmtv772]

I didn't check that just listened for the air release sound... didn't put it in drive... I know the upper park/emergency lights are always on with the bottom two park/emer go out when I push in the lower valve.

Called Haldex tech line... less than worthless. Had no idea whether or not res 1 and res2 have to have air and why it would be venting out exhaust when park applied... very worthless.

I ordered a T fitting from Amazon will be here on Friday but new air line won't get here till Monday so it will be a couple of days before I make another update.


That is the only two things I can think of as well, bad valve or needs to have air going to res2.

Thanks!

If you have a light on the dash... I mean if that light was there before you messed with it, it means you got a bigger issue, that needed fixing first.
did you check the valve by the emergency glad hand by the bumper? and are all the other valves ok?

 

[jtron79]

Any progress OD? I got my valve and fittings but have no time and a battery issue to contend with first.