Wrecker wishlist of mods

[73m819]

That small draw back is about to change, I have EVERYTHING needed to remedy that small issue except time, so then I WILL have the ONLY m819 with a 5th wheel and a rear winch.

This started out as a draglines fairlead (thank you Ray), everything froze,so rebuild, shimmed, ect., so now everything moves, and tight and welded to the rear outrigger cross beam, the cable will go under the fifth wheel to the rear front winch that will be down in the frame between the crane and fifth wheel,. Just one part of MANY PROJECTS (two many) ALL going at the same time.

 

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Is that roller fairlead low enough to clear a trailer kingpin when backing up to a trailer?

 

[jhooah]

Referring to Throttle speed, mine was a former Fire truck conversion which incorporated a vernier style round knob to adjust the throttle. Helps to quickly set the idle at any speed I want without pushing and pulling a knob. Simple twist or two and speed is up or down. I think the same control is on several gensets out there.
V/R W Winget

 

[Csm Davis]

Referring to Throttle speed, mine was a former Fire truck conversion which incorporated a vernier style round knob to adjust the throttle. Helps to quickly set the idle at any speed I want without pushing and pulling a knob. Simple twist or two and speed is up or down. I think the same control is on several gensets out there.
V/R W Winget

Yeah I like those

sent from my decrepit fingers

 

[73m819]

Is that roller fairlead low enough to clear a trailer kingpin when backing up to a trailer?

yes, plus the fifth wheel will be raised a little over a inch, the top roller of the fair lead will act like rolling tailboard on a poll truck.

 

[73m819]

Referring to Throttle speed, mine was a former Fire truck conversion which incorporated a vernier style round knob to adjust the throttle. Helps to quickly set the idle at any speed I want without pushing and pulling a knob. Simple twist or two and speed is up or down. I think the same control is on several gensets out there.
V/R W Winget

I did the same thing on the 819 a few years ago, when warmed up, I can adjust the rpm by a single rpm up or down, I do not set the lock, this way I can just smack the knob to bring the rpm down to idle (about 600, idles a lot smother

 

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Added a toolbox for more easily accessed storage. From a m931 tractor and fits just about perfect.

 

[RobertoGatos]

Added a toolbox for more easily accessed storage. From a m931 tractor and fits just about perfect.

View attachment 628193

Nice. The air dryer still there?

 

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Nice. The air dryer still there?

809 series doesn't have an air dryer from the factory. I have one that will be plumbed in eventually though

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Jeff - I was walking past mine the other day and thinking about the nose weight or lack of issue.......
How hard would this be?
936View attachment 595917 or 816View attachment 595918 Longer prop, brake lines...... what else?

Looks a little more purpose built than 'let's take a cargo truck, throw on a crane and beef up the chassis and call it good'.
The benefits at the working end would way off set any issues associated with turning circle increase...


NB. Idea date stamped 25 Nov 2015 - zebedee concepts!!!!!

To piggyback on Zebedee's idea, what about adding a 4th axle to the rear instead of moving the axles? If it's a non powered axle there would be no clearance issue with the rear winch, maybe a steering tag axle like cement trucks use so it wont hurt the turning radius?

 

[Jermyjudge]

You guys are really making me want a wrecker. I found a few on the inter Web but the closest I found is 245 miles away.

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[Csm Davis]

To piggyback on Zebedee's idea, what about adding a 4th axle to the rear instead of moving the axles? If it's a non powered axle there would be no clearance issue with the rear winch, maybe a steering tag axle like cement trucks use so it wont hurt the turning radius?

I thought about a non powered tag axle that pins on the shackle mounts and the lower travel leg mounts with an air bag to press it down and up. So if you need it just flip a switch.

sent from my decrepit fingers

 

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I think that would work really well for those lift towing often with these trucks.


Speaking of counter weight mods, added a pair of step boxes from the m939 series trucks just behind the front bumper. Rotated them sideways and moved the snatch blocks up there. The vice had to be moved but this mod has moved about 500 pounds from the back of the truck up as far forward as possible. Will cut the steps off the boxes soon.




Got the idea from this picture. If you don't want to relocate the vice these tractor boxes should fix that concern

 

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Has anyone found a way to free spool the rear 45k winch?

 

[zebedee]

Has anyone found a way to free spool the rear 45k winch?

Even if you could introduce a 'dog' clutch - like the front winches on older trucks - the thickness and therefore "memory" of the cable, the level wind and tensioner bends/radii, would make it impossible to manually pull out the cable.

Larger drag winches on ARV's etc., (3/4, 1" and up) come with an aux winch ~ 3/8" or 1/2" maybe, that is used with a snatch block at the casualty to assist with pay out. Installing one of these on a 816/936 etc., has been discussed here before, possibly another thread.

What are you trying to accomplish - use of drag winch with less people? ... or being able to drive away from casualty, pulling out winch, when you are on your own???

 

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My goal is use of the rear winch with fewer people. The concern with a aux winch (probably go electric with the m816) is the different line speed. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm picturing one winch having to be constantly turned on/off to keep the tension ok without pulling too tight and snapping the cable on the small aux winch. If it's a electric winch that's going on/off all the time the solenoid will give out, if the drag winch is constantly on/off then the clutch on the truck is getting used up.

 

[73m819]

ON the m1070, the trolley winch runs faster then the 55k drag winch reals out, keeps both cables tight, does not seem to hurt the trolley winch, the hyds. just pull down, I was was going to mount a HET trolley winch on top of Swiss's drag winch on his m62 but the owner came up with a use for it. Electric winches are NOT forgiving as a hyd winch due to the motor needing to run at set speed, in the motor gets pulled down, it gets hot and makes smoke.

 

[swiss]

ON the m1070, the trolley winch runs faster then the 55k drag winch reals out, keeps both cables tight, does not seem to hurt the trolley winch, the hyds. just pull down, I was was going to mount a HET trolley winch on top of Swiss's drag winch on his m62 but the owner came up with a use for it. Electric winches are NOT forgiving as a hyd winch due to the motor needing to run at set speed, in the motor gets pulled down, it gets hot and makes smoke.

Yes it takes 2 men, 1 mule and a lot of sweat to get that rear cable out. I think I had it out once to test . Front winch gets over used

 

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ON the m1070, the trolley winch runs faster then the 55k drag winch reals out, keeps both cables tight, does not seem to hurt the trolley winch, the hyds. just pull down, I was was going to mount a HET trolley winch on top of Swiss's drag winch on his m62 but the owner came up with a use for it. Electric winches are NOT forgiving as a hyd winch due to the motor needing to run at set speed, in the motor gets pulled down, it gets hot and makes smoke.

Thats the reason why I'm wondering if it's possible to affordably make the 45k drag winch free spool. Being an m816 everything is PTO powered instead of hydraulic (besides the crane) so kinda limited to electric winches. Unless the Tcase PTO is capable of powering both the crane hydraulic pump and rear winch at the same time, then could add another valve bank to power a small hydraulic winch.

 

[Csm Davis]

Thats the reason why I'm wondering if it's possible to affordably make the 45k drag winch free spool. Being an m816 everything is PTO powered instead of hydraulic (besides the crane) so kinda limited to electric winches. Unless the Tcase PTO is capable of powering both the crane hydraulic pump and rear winch at the same time, then could add another valve bank to power a small hydraulic winch.

Put a capstan winch on the back and use rope that is part of the BII anyways. It will let you control how fast and the tension on the rope and rope is much lighter than even 1/4" cable and much more useful with the block and tackle on board. I would recommend 600' of 1/2" of a good spec not manila. And a good bag to keep it in but this is only if you really plan on using the rear winch regularly, if not hire or con 3-4 guys to pull it out for you and be careful when you get to the last layer because every single one I have unwound came loose from the drum with very little tension and 4-5 wraps still on the drum. It is a royal pain to rethread and get to stay in the attachment hole the set screws always seem to be to short for the job.

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