FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

I thought about buying one of those models, but thought about what I'd have to do to make it look realistic (thick mopped on paint that's chipping, rust spots, vines growing up through the engine cowling, chewed wiring , and loader bucket full unknown parts from another poor MV) We ALL want to see pics once you have it properly displayed at the actual Flu Farm

I was just going to wax it (and leave a few pieces of wiring around and under it) as a tribute to your SEE, Lonnie. Maybe a few drops of dried blood, too, come to think of it.
And I already thought that a "family photo" might be appropriate. If I can get them all to run at once.
Also, in retrospect, I should picked "Lonely SEE" instead of "FLU Farm". I really didn't intend it to become one.

 

[BigBison]

Also, in retrospect, I should picked "Lonely SEE" instead of "FLU Farm". I really didn't intend it to become one.

I was just sitting here thinking how I need another runner HMMH, plus two more runner SEEs, plus another of each for parts...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0x1yBiFiUw

The FLU's definitely the poison, but the only remedy is buying another, even if it's a scale model from down under, eh?

 

[911joeblow]

In the SEE I usually have to play with the disconnect switch for a while after starting it, or it'll go to 32 Volts - not good for the new Optimas.
Got a new switch the other day, but have yet to install it. If it even is the actual problem.

Since the charge light goes out, I'm suspecting the Voltmeter. One of several things for tomorrow's fun and games.
Cleaning and tightening the fuses might fix a few of the electrical issues. The buzzer is the easiest fix - just unplug it. Although, this HMMH seems to build and hold pressure so well that I might let the buzzer stay intact for a few days. As thick as the paint is, it'd be hard for anything to leak.

I don't recall the name for the correct size batteries, but they're basically square wet batteries.
Interestingly enough, the HMMH had two regular car batteries in it, both showing 12.7 Volts. Never did check again after all the cranking, and then driving a bit.


Another odd thing was the LED work lights in the rear. Now I don't feel so bad about having switched to (much cheaper, I'm sure) LEDs on the SEE and the "old HMMH".View attachment 647212View attachment 647213
View attachment 647214 Oh, and someone wondered what the skidplate looks like. Nothing much to it.

Thanks for the pic of the skid plate. I could make one BUT if somebody has one I would like to consider buying it?

 

[Another Ahab]

I
View attachment 647214 Oh, and someone wondered what the skidplate looks like. Nothing much to it.

You're right, "nothing much to it".

It wants to be plate, but it looks more like sheet metal.

 

[911joeblow]

You're right, "nothing much to it".

It wants to be plate, but it looks more like sheet metal.

It is starting to sound like you guys think I should make an improved one with perhaps more coverage? Out of say 1/4" steel?

 

[Another Ahab]

It is starting to sound like you guys think I should make an improved one with perhaps more coverage? Out of say 1/4" steel?

I didn't mean that, I'm sorry. I'm just saying that, for its function, it looks like it would take the worst of any contact with a road obstacle.

It LOOKS that way, but of course I don't really know that that's true.

 

[The FLU farm]

It is starting to sound like you guys think I should make an improved one with perhaps more coverage? Out of say 1/4" steel?

If you think that you really need a skidplate, it'd be a good thing to make it sturdier. Besides, a SEE could use a little weight down low.
A purist would have to use 6.35 mm thick plate, not 1/4-inch, but that becomes largely irrelevant once it's covered in 1/8-inch thick paint.

I've considered some sort of mesh to protect the radiator, but so far there's been no need to drive over any trees.

 

[Skidpad]

FLU Farm, that is one nice looking HHHM you got there! I had been eyeing that one too but finally reason got the best of me for my purposes and I bought a CAT telehandler instead. Not as cool but more what I needed.

I just picked up the last piece in the set yesterday, it's an M1082 trailer. This thing is massive but the SEE will pull it no problem. That is, once I finish fighting the air valve wars.

I chased down the leak finally and found a nice dirt pile inside the charging valve for the secondary air tank. Now I think I want to disassemble the whole air system to clean it out and remove and residual corrosion to avoid further damage. I ended up having to order a new valve because this one was literally eaten through to the side of the valve the corrosion was so bad. Of course, the liberally applied CARC hid this particular point from view until it became an unyielding leak. As a cautionary tale to anyone out there who hasn't checked the condition of their air lines, these things can definitely rot out if not properly cared for. Now I'm really wondering about getting to that air line on top of the rear axle to spray some marvel oil in there...On that note, has anyone successfully installed a dryer or filter on their air system?

 

[The FLU farm]

FLU Farm, that is one nice looking HHHM you got there! I had been eyeing that one too but finally reason got the best of me for my purposes and I bought a CAT telehandler instead. Not as cool but more what I needed.

Hey, I'm pleased to learn that someone here is sensible. A telehandler is far more useful in the real world.
Of course, once (when/if) I get a quick attach setup made for the crane and can use the tractor's fork attachments, it'll become sort of a telehandler.
And thanks a lot for reminding me about the air systems I need to clean out, Skidpad. I need more work like I need another hole in the head.

 

[peakbagger]

I have the parts all bought, a new in box Wabco (off Ebay) which has a built in regulator and I sourced an air purge air tank from elsewhere. I just need the motivation to actually fight the fittings war to get something to match up to the kludge of thread styles used on the SEEs. I also have a inline oil injector that I am tempted to install to continuously squirt in a little lubrication down stream of the dryer. I wouldn't spend a lot of time cleaning out the air system until replacing the cross body air line as that seems to be a perfect design for introducing rust chips into the air system. I don't plan to use mine in winter so its not a priority.

 

[Skidpad]

Peakbagger, I've already resigned myself to begin bending stainless line in a couple of weeks for that cross body line. If successful I'll let everyone know how it turns out. I'll be using mine a lot this winter actually so i have to decode the anti-freeze puzzle. I'm really interested to hear about you rebuilding your air system. The in-line oiler sounds like a great idea. If you have the time, I'd like to see the specs for the Wabco unit you got or even better see if the seller has another one.

FLU farm, you do have a lot of irons in the fire, sorry for reminding you of deferred maintenance...

 

[peakbagger]

By the way I used CU NI tubing to replace my air line. Its a lot easier to bend then stainless and it has great reputation for holding up. http://fedhillusa.com/. It also can be used to replace brake lines. I got the fittings from this place http://shop.hoseandfittings.com/catalog/Fitting/Steel/Metric_Bite_Type.html. The fittings are not swagelock, similar concept but different geometry. One major PITA is that there are different pressure ratings for the byte type fittings, the mog uses the lower pressure rating. They are physically smaller than the higher pressure rated fittings, unfortunately I can not remember if its the "L" or the "S" which is the right one. I think I may have done a post a year ago on the right one. Keep in mind I went through a lot of what folks are going through now a year ago so some things are getting blurred Update- I went looking and found this past wisdom

Thanks all, it took a few attempts, they are metric bite fittings but there is a subtlety to ordering. The fittings are made in different pressure ratings referred to as series. The L series are lower pressure rating but physically larger than the higher pressure S series fittings. The S series threads and ferrules appear to be interchangeable with the unimog fittings.

The air dryer is a Wabco/Meritor 1200 P Here is link to the technical manual. http://www.meritorwabco.com/MeritorWABCO_document/mm34.pdf. I went with the P version with dedicated purge tank so that I didn't have to figure out how to interface with the existing air tank setup. I think I paid around $150. There are some on Ebay currently for $350 so it pays to keep an eye out. There is an electric heater option required for cold weather operation it didn't come with it but I found a third party source for a replacement. One of the uses for the electrical schematic will be to find a good spot to add in the heater circuit. I think the air tank was around $100. It has to be a high pressure rated tank. If I understand it correctly this one unit will replace the alcohol injector and the air pressure regulator. In real artic conditions truckers will install alcohol injectors downstream of the air dryer for extra protection. The alcohol has to go in downstream of the Dryer. If your alcohol injector isn't trashed it may be worth considering but I figure in really cold temps like I occasionally get in NH (-30) I will leave it in its winter parking space.

By the way, there apparently two brands of air pressure regulators used on SEEs, the TMs show an internal screen in the base of the regulator that may need cleaning. My old one did not have the screen nor did it look like it was designed for one. I had air system issues so I just bought a new one from EI and haven't taken it apart to see if there is a screen. I took the old one apart and it was quite corroded and full of crap. I think EI has a rebuild kit.

 

[911joeblow]

By the way I used CU NI tubing to replace my air line. Its a lot easier to bend then stainless and it has great reputation for holding up. http://fedhillusa.com/. It also can be used to replace brake lines. I got the fittings from this place http://shop.hoseandfittings.com/catalog/Fitting/Steel/Metric_Bite_Type.html. The fittings are not swagelock, similar concept but different geometry. One major PITA is that there are different pressure ratings for the byte type fittings, the mog uses the lower pressure rating. They are physically smaller than the higher pressure rated fittings, unfortunately I can not remember if its the "L" or the "S" which is the right one. I think I may have done a post a year ago on the right one. Keep in mind I went through a lot of what folks are going through now a year ago so some things are getting blurred Update- I went looking and found this past wisdom

Thanks all, it took a few attempts, they are metric bite fittings but there is a subtlety to ordering. The fittings are made in different pressure ratings referred to as series. The L series are lower pressure rating but physically larger than the higher pressure S series fittings. The S series threads and ferrules appear to be interchangeable with the unimog fittings.

The air dryer is a Wabco/Meritor 1200 P Here is link to the technical manual. http://www.meritorwabco.com/MeritorWABCO_document/mm34.pdf. I went with the P version with dedicated purge tank so that I didn't have to figure out how to interface with the existing air tank setup. I think I paid around $150. There are some on Ebay currently for $350 so it pays to keep an eye out. There is an electric heater option required for cold weather operation it didn't come with it but I found a third party source for a replacement. One of the uses for the electrical schematic will be to find a good spot to add in the heater circuit. I think the air tank was around $100. It has to be a high pressure rated tank. If I understand it correctly this one unit will replace the alcohol injector and the air pressure regulator. In real artic conditions truckers will install alcohol injectors downstream of the air dryer for extra protection. The alcohol has to go in downstream of the Dryer. If your alcohol injector isn't trashed it may be worth considering but I figure in really cold temps like I occasionally get in NH (-30) I will leave it in its winter parking space.

By the way, there apparently two brands of air pressure regulators used on SEEs, the TMs show an internal screen in the base of the regulator that may need cleaning. My old one did not have the screen nor did it look like it was designed for one. I had air system issues so I just bought a new one from EI and haven't taken it apart to see if there is a screen. I took the old one apart and it was quite corroded and full of crap. I think EI has a rebuild kit.

Mine had the screen which is basically the same as those garden screens you buy that you push into the hose. This one was plastic with a cross bar so you could pull or unscrew it out for cleaning. I am sure the garden section at Home Depot has the same thing! Despite having that my system was a mess anyway.

 

[General Hood]

By the way I used CU NI tubing to replace my air line. Its a lot easier to bend then stainless and it has great reputation for holding up. http://fedhillusa.com/. It also can be used to replace brake lines. I got the fittings from this place http://shop.hoseandfittings.com/catalog/Fitting/Steel/Metric_Bite_Type.html. The fittings are not swagelock, similar concept but different geometry. One major PITA is that there are different pressure ratings for the byte type fittings, the mog uses the lower pressure rating. They are physically smaller than the higher pressure rated fittings, unfortunately I can not remember if its the "L" or the "S" which is the right one. I think I may have done a post a year ago on the right one. Keep in mind I went through a lot of what folks are going through now a year ago so some things are getting blurred Update- I went looking and found this past wisdom

Thanks all, it took a few attempts, they are metric bite fittings but there is a subtlety to ordering. The fittings are made in different pressure ratings referred to as series. The L series are lower pressure rating but physically larger than the higher pressure S series fittings. The S series threads and ferrules appear to be interchangeable with the unimog fittings.

The air dryer is a Wabco/Meritor 1200 P Here is link to the technical manual. http://www.meritorwabco.com/MeritorWABCO_document/mm34.pdf. I went with the P version with dedicated purge tank so that I didn't have to figure out how to interface with the existing air tank setup. I think I paid around $150. There are some on Ebay currently for $350 so it pays to keep an eye out. There is an electric heater option required for cold weather operation it didn't come with it but I found a third party source for a replacement. One of the uses for the electrical schematic will be to find a good spot to add in the heater circuit. I think the air tank was around $100. It has to be a high pressure rated tank. If I understand it correctly this one unit will replace the alcohol injector and the air pressure regulator. In real artic conditions truckers will install alcohol injectors downstream of the air dryer for extra protection. The alcohol has to go in downstream of the Dryer. If your alcohol injector isn't trashed it may be worth considering but I figure in really cold temps like I occasionally get in NH (-30) I will leave it in its winter parking space.

By the way, there apparently two brands of air pressure regulators used on SEEs, the TMs show an internal screen in the base of the regulator that may need cleaning. My old one did not have the screen nor did it look like it was designed for one. I had air system issues so I just bought a new one from EI and haven't taken it apart to see if there is a screen. I took the old one apart and it was quite corroded and full of crap. I think EI has a rebuild kit.

We would like to see photo progress of the air system restorations and upgrades you guys are making. I need to perform this work on one of my SEEs, but probably wont have the free time until it's hand numbing cold outside

 

[General Hood]

Electric Schematic are ready to ship out ........going .....going.....gone

 

[The FLU farm]

Dismal progress report, and a stern warning.

Had to use the HMMH today, so while it was out anyway, the decision was made to put "HMMH II" into the garage in its place.
Drained the JP8 (?) out of the tank yesterday and refilled with fresh diesel, so all that remained was to switch the left rear for the spare. Had to put a tire plug in that left rear when it first arrived as there was a nasty hole in it, so better do it while there was easy access.
Only two issues came to mind; how to remove the bolt holding the spare, and how to get the former left rear up into the spare's place.

Amazingly, the bolt could be undone by hand - those threads was one of the few places where the paint wasn't super thick.
Potential issue number two was naturally handled by (you guessed it) using the HMMH's crane. Proper justification to have a second crane.
So far, great.


Secured the spare and hopped into "HMMH II", turned the switches on...and wondered if the buzzer had broken. Major surprise; after sitting for two days, the air pressure was still up. Hey, this was going great!

Cranked the engine and it fired right up. Only to start running crappy. That's when I remembered that I had turned the fuel valve off when draining the tank, and some idiot forgot to turn it back on.
Never ever, and I mean NEVER, forget to turn that valve on! It took me at least four times as long to get it running right again as it did to get it running the first time, when it arrived as a non-runner.
Still not sure that everything is completely happy in the fuel department, but at least it's now a garage queen. Until I can lube the cylinder seals, and check things out in general, before starting to change the fluids. Which might be next year at the rate I get things done.

 

[peakbagger]

We would like to see photo progress of the air system restorations and upgrades you guys are making. I need to perform this work on one of my SEEs, but probably wont have the free time until it's hand numbing cold outside

Probably wont happen this winter on mine. I am in the process of buying a wood lot with an old house on it and expect the rest of the fall will be dedicated to getting the house stripped out, asbestos removed and the rest of the house down and hauled. Whatever happened to the good old days where you could call up the local fire department and give it to them for practice?. Part of the house goed back to 1824 so there is plenty of dry wood in it (along with black mold and asbestos). Wish I had a thumb on my SEE to do the demo but expect I get to pay for a big backhoe.

 

[The FLU farm]

Wish I had a thumb on my SEE to do the demo but expect I get to pay for a big backhoe.

Titan has universal weld-on thumbs, the one I looked at is a reasonable $200 with free shipping. Could be worth looking into considering your needs.

 

[Another Ahab]

Titan has universal weld-on thumbs, the one I looked at is a reasonable $200 with free shipping. Could be worth looking into considering your needs.

If it's not removable though, and you weld it on, can you still use the bucket as normal?

 

[Another Ahab]

Cranked the engine and it fired right up. Only to start running crappy. That's when I remembered that I had turned the fuel valve off when draining the tank, and some idiot forgot to turn it back on.
Never ever, and I mean NEVER, forget to turn that valve on! It took me at least four times as long to get it running right again as it did to get it running the first time, when it arrived as a non-runner.

I hate to say this; it's cold and heartless, but you know you need to fire him, right?