srodocker
Well-known member
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- Location
- Lacey, Washington
Cant wait to see this build! good luck!
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Mine looks completely untouched except at the rear. It has many, many holes about 5/8" in diameter which must have been from the armor or something. Those holes are all over the truck. Top of bed wheel wells, under the door, under the footwell for driver/passenger, etc. The paint at the front of the truck is good, the paint at the rear is horrible. The black is flaking off and it's paper thin at the back. I scraped some off with a scraper, the adhesion was just terrible. The base coat of green under it seems to be good, though. I'll likely be removing paint and repainting with Rapco rattle cans at the rear of the truck.Curious... was your truck repainted by GP/their contractor? or did it just have a good job out of the USMC? I'm wondering because of that big as sticker that they put on the front passenger side. Seems to not be the smartest idea to put something like that on a truck that just got a paint job...
I've used those Rapco rattle cans for woodland camo and they match perfectly! I would love to go over the whole truck, but I'm not very good at keeping a tight line with the rattle can at the different colors like the pros do. The paint thread seems to favor the airless sprayer with the Depot paint mentioned in there. I'm very picky about keeping everything original, including the exact color match, I'm worried that the Depot paint color would be off a little and I'd be pissed and have to start over.Mine looks completely untouched except at the rear. It has many, many holes about 5/8" in diameter which must have been from the armor or something. Those holes are all over the truck. Top of bed wheel wells, under the door, under the footwell for driver/passenger, etc. The paint at the front of the truck is good, the paint at the rear is horrible. The black is flaking off and it's paper thin at the back. I scraped some off with a scraper, the adhesion was just terrible. The base coat of green under it seems to be good, though. I'll likely be removing paint and repainting with Rapco rattle cans at the rear of the truck.
For a quick estimate, I'd say nearly $2000.What do you figure in parts it is costing you in parts to get it to meet VA safety standards?
Considering transportation costs, taxes, shipping, etc, it's probably closer to $30k.So I am guessing you are into it for about $27K total? I am trying to weigh the options of going that route and scrapping the plans for the 998. I think with the motor and tranny upgrades hassle, costs, and time that I would be better off just going the same route. My main concern is getting a m1123 then having to sink a lot of cash into a motor rebuild.
I wish you the best of luck with your safety inspection. That is one thing I don't miss about VA having to play inspection roulette and never knowing if the guy doing the inspection actually knows anything about automobiles and the law. I once had a guy try to fail me because he said my brake hose was dry rotted. When I questioned him he got real snappy and told me every thing there is to know about brake hoses. My response to him was "that is great, but that is actually the vent hose for the rear axle". He quietly scraped off the rejection sticker. I can only imagine what it would be like bringing your m1123 in. Probably get a "Sorry, your rotors are not in the correct location".
Did you verify the switch is sending power to the pump?
you should not have any voltage on the leads or lamps..IMO. I would lean towards a faulty light switch. As far as voltage on the Washer pump, it would lean towards a faulty EESS....or let me ask, you should only have voltage on wipers and washers when key is energized or eng running.I did. From memory, wire 71 had 24 volts with the button pushed. But it also had 10.5 volts with the button not pushed. But testing the switch itself it had continuity when pressed and none when not pressed. But it was late and I might be remembering it wrong. In any case, I'm currently soaking the washer pump in pine sol to break things apart if there's gunk in there from years of not being used. It's possible that it is seized up and not actually a bad pump. But when I'm holding the pump and pressing the button I don't feel or hear anything, which makes me think the pump is bad.
But it might be bad due to getting 10.5 volts all the time.
There's a similarly weird thing going on with the dash lights. They seem to get 1 volt all the time. We'll see if they all burn out prematurely.
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