M1123 Purchase and Build Thread - Virginia

[srodocker]

Cant wait to see this build! good luck!

 

[bikeman]

Curious... was your truck repainted by GP/their contractor? or did it just have a good job out of the USMC? I'm wondering because of that big as sticker that they put on the front passenger side. Seems to not be the smartest idea to put something like that on a truck that just got a paint job...

 

[MaverickH1]

Curious... was your truck repainted by GP/their contractor? or did it just have a good job out of the USMC? I'm wondering because of that big as sticker that they put on the front passenger side. Seems to not be the smartest idea to put something like that on a truck that just got a paint job...

Mine looks completely untouched except at the rear. It has many, many holes about 5/8" in diameter which must have been from the armor or something. Those holes are all over the truck. Top of bed wheel wells, under the door, under the footwell for driver/passenger, etc. The paint at the front of the truck is good, the paint at the rear is horrible. The black is flaking off and it's paper thin at the back. I scraped some off with a scraper, the adhesion was just terrible. The base coat of green under it seems to be good, though. I'll likely be removing paint and repainting with Rapco rattle cans at the rear of the truck.

 

[chickenbutt]

Mine looks completely untouched except at the rear. It has many, many holes about 5/8" in diameter which must have been from the armor or something. Those holes are all over the truck. Top of bed wheel wells, under the door, under the footwell for driver/passenger, etc. The paint at the front of the truck is good, the paint at the rear is horrible. The black is flaking off and it's paper thin at the back. I scraped some off with a scraper, the adhesion was just terrible. The base coat of green under it seems to be good, though. I'll likely be removing paint and repainting with Rapco rattle cans at the rear of the truck.

I've used those Rapco rattle cans for woodland camo and they match perfectly! I would love to go over the whole truck, but I'm not very good at keeping a tight line with the rattle can at the different colors like the pros do. The paint thread seems to favor the airless sprayer with the Depot paint mentioned in there. I'm very picky about keeping everything original, including the exact color match, I'm worried that the Depot paint color would be off a little and I'd be pissed and have to start over.

 

[Action]

Did you mention the b-pillar door jambs that are not on those m1123s?

 

[TedG]

Nice thread. Good to see it being put back together. I have the M1123 b pillars fully dressed amongst other items missing to get this truck up to snuff. Pm me if you want.

 

[Lionel]

Which rivits were sheared? The ones that were under the armor?

 

[MaverickH1]

I pretty much have all of the parts ordered or already in hand to complete the truck. At the moment all I lack to make it look complete are to get the B-pillar rabbet mounted, attach the soft top bow crossmembers to it, and then cut weatherstripping to fill the gap between the windshield frame and former and mount that, then add the top and rear curtain.

The sheared rivets were mostly on the b-pillar. Both sides look like it had 3/16" rivets ripped off. The rear where the 1/8" turnbutton rivets are had almost all of them torn off as well. For most of them a few taps with a 1/8" punch did the job. Others will require drilling.

 

[MaverickH1]

Both windshields are now installed, B-pillar rabbets are installed with the soft top bows. New Truck-lite military 24v LEDs installed but need to be adjusted. Dash lights installed. Former and a little foam weatherstripping on the gaps installed. New soft top kit ordered off eBay due to the doors I have being too time intensive to repair.

I tried to video tape the windshield replacement last night but lighting was horrible and due to the cold weather the rubber was being very difficult. Maybe I'll post what I DID take at some point.

All that is left to make it pass VA inspection now is for it to install wiper arms and new wipers, license plate light, and a reverse light and switch. I have the parts for the installation of those parts now.

Will be removing the A/C system next and putting it on a pallet for future shipment to its unknown buyer.

The title situation has not been resolved. I will keep that vague for now.

I wish I had pictures, but it's dark when I get home from work and I do all of the work outside without much lighting, and it's dark when I go to work in the mornings.

 

[Sintorion]

What do you figure in parts it is costing you in parts to get it to meet VA safety standards?

 

[MaverickH1]

What do you figure in parts it is costing you in parts to get it to meet VA safety standards?

For a quick estimate, I'd say nearly $2000.

 

[Sintorion]

So I am guessing you are into it for about $27K total? I am trying to weigh the options of going that route and scrapping the plans for the 998. I think with the motor and tranny upgrades hassle, costs, and time that I would be better off just going the same route. My main concern is getting a m1123 then having to sink a lot of cash into a motor rebuild.

I wish you the best of luck with your safety inspection. That is one thing I don't miss about VA having to play inspection roulette and never knowing if the guy doing the inspection actually knows anything about automobiles and the law. I once had a guy try to fail me because he said my brake hose was dry rotted. When I questioned him he got real snappy and told me every thing there is to know about brake hoses. My response to him was "that is great, but that is actually the vent hose for the rear axle". He quietly scraped off the rejection sticker. I can only imagine what it would be like bringing your m1123 in. Probably get a "Sorry, your rotors are not in the correct location".

 

[MaverickH1]

So I am guessing you are into it for about $27K total? I am trying to weigh the options of going that route and scrapping the plans for the 998. I think with the motor and tranny upgrades hassle, costs, and time that I would be better off just going the same route. My main concern is getting a m1123 then having to sink a lot of cash into a motor rebuild.

I wish you the best of luck with your safety inspection. That is one thing I don't miss about VA having to play inspection roulette and never knowing if the guy doing the inspection actually knows anything about automobiles and the law. I once had a guy try to fail me because he said my brake hose was dry rotted. When I questioned him he got real snappy and told me every thing there is to know about brake hoses. My response to him was "that is great, but that is actually the vent hose for the rear axle". He quietly scraped off the rejection sticker. I can only imagine what it would be like bringing your m1123 in. Probably get a "Sorry, your rotors are not in the correct location".

Considering transportation costs, taxes, shipping, etc, it's probably closer to $30k.

My inspection guy is a USMC vet, I'll be fine

 

[MaverickH1]

Windshield wiper arms installed tonight only to find out that the windshield washer pump does not appear to be working. Civvy Hummer H1 arms used, 12" wipers installed (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O2IR1SA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). 10" is the original HMMWV wiper size. The 12" wiper is tight on the frame, if I ever get to see this truck during the daylight again I'll adjust or trim the wiper. Thanks daylight savings time. :/

As for the windshield washer, there is 24V all the way to the pump. Continuity across the pump terminals. Good grounds. The sprayers or pump itself might be clogged, however. No sounds coming from the pump when the button is pushed.

In other news, sounds like the title will be coming in the next few weeks! And I will be stopping by a local insurance agency tomorrow to look into getting insured. I've already called around and this is the first place to act like it might be possible for $20/month for basic Virginia liability.

 

[Lionel]

Sounds great on your title. Glad you didn't have to get it back to Ga to get it done.

 

[bikeman]

Did you verify the switch is sending power to the pump?

 

[Wire Fox]

Progressive offered basic liability to my M998A1 for all of $5 per month. I've also got full coverage for a car and for a motorcycle on that same policy, which is probably why it's that cheap. Just an option for you to consider if the local deal doesn't pan out.

 

[MaverickH1]

I did. From memory, wire 71 had 24 volts with the button pushed. But it also had 10.5 volts with the button not pushed. But testing the switch itself it had continuity when pressed and none when not pressed. But it was late and I might be remembering it wrong. In any case, I'm currently soaking the washer pump in pine sol to break things apart if there's gunk in there from years of not being used. It's possible that it is seized up and not actually a bad pump. But when I'm holding the pump and pressing the button I don't feel or hear anything, which makes me think the pump is bad.

But it might be bad due to getting 10.5 volts all the time.

There's a similarly weird thing going on with the dash lights. They seem to get 1 volt all the time. We'll see if they all burn out prematurely.

Did you verify the switch is sending power to the pump?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Those pumps are commonly broken.....every GP truck I have purchased "10" have had a bad pump. I just replace the entire bottle with pump.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I did. From memory, wire 71 had 24 volts with the button pushed. But it also had 10.5 volts with the button not pushed. But testing the switch itself it had continuity when pressed and none when not pressed. But it was late and I might be remembering it wrong. In any case, I'm currently soaking the washer pump in pine sol to break things apart if there's gunk in there from years of not being used. It's possible that it is seized up and not actually a bad pump. But when I'm holding the pump and pressing the button I don't feel or hear anything, which makes me think the pump is bad.

But it might be bad due to getting 10.5 volts all the time.

There's a similarly weird thing going on with the dash lights. They seem to get 1 volt all the time. We'll see if they all burn out prematurely.

you should not have any voltage on the leads or lamps..IMO. I would lean towards a faulty light switch. As far as voltage on the Washer pump, it would lean towards a faulty EESS....or let me ask, you should only have voltage on wipers and washers when key is energized or eng running.