• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M923 receiver/hitch assembly

DJones

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,079
57
48
Location
New Palestine Indiana
Do you by chance have the Curt part number for that hitch? I can't read it in the pic. With some side plates that go up to the web of the frame, that is about perfect.
grendel I'm traveling for my job and won't be home until Monday night but will post that info.
 

Spyderman

Active member
393
37
28
Location
Alexandria KY
Yes and no. You have to turn the pintle to put the ball in. I will take a picture when I get home. You don't need the spacers.

Sent from my webslinger!
 
Last edited:

Spyderman

Active member
393
37
28
Location
Alexandria KY

A you can see.with the pintle straight out blocks the hole. I like it like this because it still looks mostly stock. With the pintle turned it has enough room to slide the ball in. I think I use a 15 inch drop hitch. I will have to measure it to be sure. I used it on my Chevy blazer before. It was lifted a little bit.

Sent from my webslinger!
 

PatLitToolMan

New member
17
0
0
Location
Seattle WA
I bolted it in today, it is perfect. Seems extremely heavy duty. Comes with six grade 8 carriage bolts, nuts and thick steel slugs for the carriage bolts (they fit in the frame channel perfect). You do have to grid off all 6 of the rear cross member rivets but its ok as 4 of the hitch bolts replace them and seems even more study now. I only ground the bottoms off the rivets so the hitch would sit flush. I started to chisel them out but then thought better of it since i did not reuse any of those holes for the hitch mount holes. On the back 4 bolts you end up drilling through both the frame rails and the cross member. Not only do you need to turn the Pintle but you end up losing the grease fitting on the bottom of it as well as the hitch ends up that close. Very pleased with this setup. This will be have no problems pulling my 16k toy hauler and accompanying toys.
 

Stranger

Member
120
2
18
Location
Weatherford, OK
I just installed a Draw-Tite 41947 Class V Ultra Frame on my 5-ton. Looks like it will do the job. I didn't like having to drill holes in the frame, but it looked like the only realistic option.

I like it so much that I bought a second for the Deuce. (Didn't hurt that it was only $166 shipped with Am_zon Prime.)

20161211_132023_resized.jpg20161211_132010_resized.jpg20161211_131911_resized.jpg20161211_131845_resized.jpg
 
Last edited:

Stranger

Member
120
2
18
Location
Weatherford, OK
BTW, if you really want a Curt I would recommend a Curt 15800 receiver hitch. It is designed to bolt onto any 34" C-channel truck frame. We tested fitted one to the 5-ton before installing the Draw-Tite above. The Curt will work, but for a variety of reasons I went with the Draw-Tite.

The 15600 series are unobtanium. I'm not even sure Curt is making them anymore.
 

Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
BTW, if you really want a Curt I would recommend a Curt 15800 receiver hitch. It is designed to bolt onto any 34" C-channel truck frame. We tested fitted one to the 5-ton before installing the Draw-Tite above. The Curt will work, but for a variety of reasons I went with the Draw-Tite.

The 15600 series are unobtanium. I'm not even sure Curt is making them anymore.
Looks great! I don't think you mounted it far enough back though. Another one of our members mounted theirs that far forward and then hooked their camper to it. They lost some of their turning radius, and had a rough time backing it. Their fix was to build a spacer that allowed them to install it on top of those rivets in the rear cross member without removing the rivets. It allowed them to pull the camper easily and only have to watch it when backing.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

Stranger

Member
120
2
18
Location
Weatherford, OK
Looks great! I don't think you mounted it far enough back though. Another one of our members mounted theirs that far forward and then hooked their camper to it. They lost some of their turning radius, and had a rough time backing it. Their fix was to build a spacer that allowed them to install it on top of those rivets in the rear cross member without removing the rivets. It allowed them to pull the camper easily and only have to watch it when backing.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
That is an excellent point and one that I considered before drilling holes.

The trailer I will be towing has a 42" tongue length and is 68" wide. I can go ~90 degrees without the trailer and the back of the truck touching. If the truck is at 90 degrees to the trailer I have screwed something up worse than receiver placement.

Backing will be a pain and the trailer will be squirrely. However, it isn't much worse that with an M105A2 and its 49" tongue.

It may not look like it in the pictures, but the ball sits in the same vertical line as the pintle.
 

Andrmorr

Member
274
7
18
Location
Burlington, NC
I bought a rear cab cross member from PowerstrokeNC that I'm going to make into a hitch. Granted I think I'll have to disassemble the rear most cross member to get it in between the frame rails but it looks to have enough clearance for the pintle. I'll take some pics when I get it started. It has to dry out some here first.
Did you finish this install? Do you have pics at any stage or Before/After?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks