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MEP-802A No Response to Control Panel Functions Including Start Switch

DieselAddict

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Load or no load doesn't really matter. If you have a ground fault it will zap you. Driving a rod and running a lead is cheap insurance.

If they are sitting on the ground near your power panel the ground rod should be right there. Find it and run a wire over to it.

If you plan to do some generator work here and there drive a rod in the location where you plan to work on them. Make it easy on yourself so you do it. We are talking like $15 in material.

A properly running generator has a low probability of shocking you. BUT you are protecting yourself from that one that isn't running properly.

Guy - Here in the states plastic pipe has gotten so common you can't rely on a water pipes or conduits.
 

Bmxenbrett

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No we dont ground gutters. If your running this for testing purposes i wouldnt bother grounding it. If your really worried about it ground it to your house ground rod.
Also i was having a similar problem with the main start switch not working after the gen set shut its self off. It would run for about 20 sec then shutdown with no faults. It was low on fuel....lol. it would stay running with the battle short switch.
 

csheath

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Thanks for the info. No it did not come with a ground rod. Do I need one even though there is no load hooked up to it? If I'm just starting it to run and test, is a ground rod required? I've run my MEP-831A and MEP-016D without getting zapped, though they were sitting directly on the ground with no load. If the -802A were sitting on the ground and not on top of the trailer would it be safe to start with no load?
The ground rod, if it has one, would be bolted up out of site on the skid runner. Mine had them and I didn't find them till I already rigged up a copper rod.
 

Guyfang

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Load or no load doesn't really matter. If you have a ground fault it will zap you. Driving a rod and running a lead is cheap insurance.

If they are sitting on the ground near your power panel the ground rod should be right there. Find it and run a wire over to it.

If you plan to do some generator work here and there drive a rod in the location where you plan to work on them. Make it easy on yourself so you do it. We are talking like $15 in material.

A properly running generator has a low probability of shocking you. BUT you are protecting yourself from that one that isn't running properly.

Guy - Here in the states plastic pipe has gotten so common you can't rely on a water pipes or conduits.
Yeah, we are getting that way also. Still a lot of steel, copper and stainless, but plastic is starting to make big inroads.
 

NBA89

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Ok so, my genset definitely doesn't have a ground rod with it. Is there a simple kit on eBay or Amazon that a member would recommend? I'm anxious to crank this thing up and get working on another -005A I just bought :)
 

Guyfang

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I looked up the NSN for a ground rod kit. Listed next to the NSN, was about 10 part numbers, that all were different, but all got you the same thing. A ground rod kit. Also listed there was alt. NSN's. About 6-8 of them. All got you a ground rod kit. Yep, they are all about the same.
 

Daybreak

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Howdy,

A ground rod at your home is something that you pound into the ground, and it stays there forever. end of story. If you have ever driven a full 8ft ground into the ground, you would understand that you just are not simply pulling it out. Well, at least here in Virginia with a red clay type soil.

A simple 8ft ground rod purchased at hardware store, and related grounding clamp and wires.

2 kinds even... copper, and copper/galvanized.

If you want a 3 section ground rod for the purpose of being prepared for mobile usage. You see all the links and info above.
 

Guyfang

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Howdy,
A ground rod at your home is something that you pound into the ground, and it stays there forever. end of story. If you have ever driven a full 8ft ground into the ground, you would understand that you just are not simply pulling it out. Well, at least here in Virginia with a red clay type soil.
One of my favorite ways to “re-adjust” an errant solder, was ground rods. Lots of NCOs and Officers normally take the Article 15, (non-judicial punishment) route to punish a soldier for minor infractions against the military’s rules. An old First Sargent friend of mine, when I was a young upcoming junior NCO, told me to think very hard before going the Art.15 route. It can destroy a young, promising soldier’s carrier. It’s an NCOs job to take care of minor problems. Giving a soldier an Art.15 was the lazy man’s way to pass the buck on a disciplinary problem, he told me. An Art.15 can take away rank, money and free time of a soldier, as well as kill his chances of remaining in the military, if they should so choose. Ground rods were a better way.

When I had a problem child, we would attempt to solve the problem with counseling. When that didn’t bring results, I would call my wife, and tell her I might not be home tonight.

I would get a bundle of ground rods. The bundle consisted of 8 each ground rods. Single piece, 6 foot rods. At 17:00, I would inform my problem child, that we were going to have some “extra training”. When everyone had left work, we would go out back. Problem child with the bundle of rods and several sledge hammers, and I with my folding lawn chair. I would instruct problem child on the proper way to emplace a 6 foot ground rod. Then problem child would start to emplace ground rods, while I observed and supervised. Our missile site was on a Stone Mountain top. Driving a rod in, approx. 5 foot and 8 inches could take an hour, or more, if you chose a bad spot to do it. There were not many good spots up there.

After problem child had driven the all the rods, (and broken several sledge hammers) it was very late at night. I always had a Coleman lantern for this kind of thing. Problem child was by that time, “tuckered out”. After a few minutes of rest, I would tell Problem child that all these ground rods were a safety hazard. In the dark, someone could trip over them during a crew drill, and get hurt. So it was necessary to remove them.

It was normally about time to start a new day at work when all the rods were finally removed. I never, ever, had to do more than one “Extra training” session with a young soldier. They could have stopped at any time. Or refused to do so. But then we would have gone the Art.15 route. Not one of them ever did.

Lest you think that I am a mean and nasty old man, my old First Sargent friend had me fill 500 sand bags. Three separate times, before he re-adjusted my attitude. I hated empting them out the next morning. That was the worst part.
 

Bmxenbrett

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So my "just add fuel" genset didnt work. I now have no power to the pannel. I followed Guys instructions in the first post here and fuse1 and cb1, as well as the bat shunt. I get 24v at the master switch when its off, turn to run/prime and power to it and cb1 drops to 5v.
 

DieselAddict

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You need to look for a bad connection somewhere. You have high resistance in the current path. Trace the power all the way back with the switch turned on. You'll find a spot where you'll have full voltage.

Check your ground connections to the frame at the battery.

Don't leave it that way for long periods if you are drawing much of a load. All the energy in the voltage drop is being turned into heat. It could possibly melt some stuff if you are unlucky enough for it to be in a cannon plug.
 

Guyfang

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Check the canon plugs under the control panel. Should be three of them. Remove them, look into the plugs, to see if nothing is burnt out. Get a light and mirror, and look at the other side of the plugs, to make sure nothing is bent or burnt out. They are quick disconnect, so they kinda "click" when you screw them back in. Make sure you feel that.
 

Bmxenbrett

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I tryed taking them off. Im not built to work in such tight areas. Thats going to require alot of zip tie cutting and swearing.
 

jamawieb

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So my "just add fuel" genset didnt work. I now have no power to the pannel. I followed Guys instructions in the first post here and fuse1 and cb1, as well as the bat shunt. I get 24v at the master switch when its off, turn to run/prime and power to it and cb1 drops to 5v.
Are you 100% positive your batteries are good. A battery can read 12volts but soon as a small load (i.e. fuel pump) comes on, it drops to nothing. I've had this happen to me and I took days trying to trace down a short only to find out 1 battery had bad cells. Please check the batteries.
 

Guyfang

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The reason it turns over with the S10, (dead crank switch) is because the S10 function does not go through the Control panel. Your problem has to do with the control panel or the cabling between it, and the rest of the gen set.

The first place to check is the canon plugs below the control panel. If they are loose, or a pin, or pins are bent/burnt, this is the type symptoms you get. It's the same with a broken wire. It will pass voltage, you get 24 volts at S1, (start switch) you said, then when you place the S1 in the start/run or start/run/aux position, the voltage breaks down, and nothing works because the amperage will not pass a weak/loose/broken connection.
 
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