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Hmmwv hydraulic fan delete, addition electric fan

LabandCitori525

New member
13
0
0
Location
Riverside, California
Hello gentlemen.
I was wondering if anyone has successfully deleted the hydraulic fan, stock on the 6.2, and added a pusher electric fan. I checked the archives to the third page and I have only found CUCV conversions, and the same article reposted every other link. I read an article on the flex-a-lite fans being used in Iraq and it seemed impressive enough to look into. My fan clutch has begun to leak, and my radiator and oil cooler are beat to **** from Marine abuse. I'm reading about increases in horsepower, and better economy. I called flex-a-lite and talked to a tech, he had his doubts about deleting the factory fan for the obvious reasons but noted that with this units https://www.flex-a-lite.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=410 Cfm it should be able to maintain the operating temperature. Has anyone come to a definitive conclusion or is this idea a toss up?
 

tage

Active member
679
68
28
Location
LOS ANGELES / CALIFORNIA
Looks like the stock fan puts out 8k cfm. It's hard to find an electric fan setup that can compete Without being ridiculously expensive... They are more of a piggyback solution.
 

dilvoy

Active member
733
25
28
Location
San Francisco, Ca.
Just repair the existing system. The fan blades get old and brittle and the hydraulics can leak, but if you install new parts, you will probably be able to go twenty years without a problem most likely, unless you have a bad engine mount and you don't have to re engineer anything. it's all been figured out, just get the right parts and have fun.
 

Mario

Active member
315
87
28
Location
Rio Rancho, NM
How common is for the fan to run almost constantly?

While driving my new (to me) 998 at highway speeds (pushing 60+MPH) on a sunny, 70° day, the fan kicks on about 30-45 seconds after it shut off from previous cycle.
I don't want to know what it'll be like in a 100+ degree weather we have here in NM.
 

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,679
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
Mario,
No that is not normal.. my fan cycles in and out about 3 to 4 min. at that temp. Of course we haven't had a 70f day since 1997. lol

What I do an every new to me Humvee, is replace fan- belts- thermostat- all hoses and of course flush and fill with new coolant.

I have replaced 2 water pumps as well ( just cause I was in there) While your radiator is out, flow test it with your garden hose from top to bottom and bottom to top

water should flow freely, if not take it to the rad. shop and have it rodded out. Now you have a good foundation to diag. any other cooling issue. These trucks are old

and all these things need to be done anyway. The time delay module works or it don't-- coolant temp. sensor and Cadillac valve are all that is left in the system. These are

all easy to diag. Make sure your power steering fluid is topped off also. The fan blades get old and brittle-- they will explode if you don't ford water correctly-- and I would

not recommend standing over a running engine with a old crusty fan blade on it. Hope this helped and good luck......
 

Jon0249

Member
111
4
18
Location
Lipan, TX
I added the flex-a-lite dual pusher, but only as a supplemental fan for Texas summers. The OEM fan pulls 10k cfm - there is no electric fan that even comes close to what you need. The article you read never explained they added the pusher IN ADDITION to the OEM fan.

I suggest upgrading to a 4L80e. A bit pricey, but well worth it. When the torque converter clutch locks, it's like a fifth gear. That'll keep your temps down in summer. Works for me in this heat. My sweet spot is 67 mph @ 2250 rpm and I can (and have) run for hours.

Rebuild your fan clutch for $85 (Kascar kit), replace it with a standard temp sensor fan clutch or find a surplus clutch on ebay. Lots of options if you're willing to do the work.
 

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
I also have installed many dual fan setups. I dont run the dual fan housings as there are much better single fans that put out much higher CFMs than any of the dual fan housings I have found. I run only 24V fans and I run them through a 24V digital controller. The big added Item is the factory seals do not do a good job of forcing air through the radiators and there is a lot of leakage. Two items happen here: one is the cold outside air is not well sealed to get into the radiator stack and two when the fan(s) pull air they get hot air from the ambient engine heat getting around the seals. So I spend a lot of time building seals around the stack to keep this from happening. Now I am not in TX or AZ but I can run my trucks at speed an never get the stock fan to kick in. I do keep it installed since up a steep grade pulling a trailer it will still be needed eventually and it is good backup for the electric fans. I do have to add that I also run a cooling system mod to take excessively hot coolant out of the rear of the block which really evens out the cooling and reduces hot spots, steam/air pockets and drops the cabin temps too.
 

Mario

Active member
315
87
28
Location
Rio Rancho, NM
Would love to hear/see more info on the fan setup and how you do seals around the fan and stack.
Mo 411 pls.

Mario


I also have installed many dual fan setups. I dont run the dual fan housings as there are much better single fans that put out much higher CFMs than any of the dual fan housings I have found. I run only 24V fans and I run them through a 24V digital controller. The big added Item is the factory seals do not do a good job of forcing air through the radiators and there is a lot of leakage. Two items happen here: one is the cold outside air is not well sealed to get into the radiator stack and two when the fan(s) pull air they get hot air from the ambient engine heat getting around the seals. So I spend a lot of time building seals around the stack to keep this from happening. Now I am not in TX or AZ but I can run my trucks at speed an never get the stock fan to kick in. I do keep it installed since up a steep grade pulling a trailer it will still be needed eventually and it is good backup for the electric fans. I do have to add that I also run a cooling system mod to take excessively hot coolant out of the rear of the block which really evens out the cooling and reduces hot spots, steam/air pockets and drops the cabin temps too.
 

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
I fabricate seals from rubber that I buy in bulk that is often used in landscaping for edging. I also use weatherstripping and automotive generic seals. It is not brain surgery but it is tedious. I really should make some templates to save me the measuring and trial fitting time each time I do it. The best fans I ever used were off a tank or armored carrier of some sort. They were the best by far. I have used SPAL 24V Bus fans too which are pretty common. I cant recall the name of the controller right now but they are specifically made for military stuff. I will look around for it.
 
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