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Hmmwv hydraulic fan delete, addition electric fan

911joeblow

Active member
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Utah
I will post pics of my set-up when I get to it on the current truck I am working on. Should be next month.
 

tanhmmwv

Member
94
6
8
Location
ma
When the engine is cool or even at normal operating temperature, the fan clutch partially disengages the engine's mechanically driven radiator cooling fan, generally located at the front of the water pump and driven by a belt and pulley connected to the engine's crankshaft.
one benefit is that if you enter deep water, the fan will stop turning and your fan blade will not get destroyed. and you will not get that load noise like when the hydraulic fan turns on.
this one does require you to grind down the raised notches on the crankshaft pulley though.
 

MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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WOBURN. MA.
But with a fan with such an aggressive pitch I wonder how much air can be moved with the clutch disengaging at a much lower RPM than with a fan designed for a clutch setup.

Mark
 

Jon0249

Member
111
4
18
Location
Lipan, TX
Thanks for the pic. Can you provide application info, i.e., year/make/model? There are a few possible clutch/fan combinations that would fit, and most turn the wrong way! Appreciate any details you can give.
 

JoeJrTheBarber

New member
268
20
0
Location
Chicago, IL
I solved my running hot issue (well i think i did, havent drove the truck yet) by ditching the 20+ year old beat to crap radiator and replaced it with a nice / bigger capacity
aluminum unit. That with some new hoses and a good tune-up and i should be good to go.

From years of building hot rods and such you always start with the source of the issue and work your way out. If a vehicle is running hotter then it should or you
like the radiator is the first thing to be swapped out / upgraded. Then hoses, t-stat cap, fan, etc...

My two cents...
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Supporting Vendor
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I solved my running hot issue (well i think i did, havent drove the truck yet) by ditching the 20+ year old beat to crap radiator and replaced it with a nice / bigger capacity
aluminum unit. That with some new hoses and a good tune-up and i should be good to go.

From years of building hot rods and such you always start with the source of the issue and work your way out. If a vehicle is running hotter then it should or you
like the radiator is the first thing to be swapped out / upgraded. Then hoses, t-stat cap, fan, etc...

My two cents...
I always start with old fluid and internal thermostat, but agree that you need to start basic and then work outwards.

When you hear hooves, think horses, not zebras.

T
 

Skrilex

Banned
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0
Location
Portland Oregon
I solved my running hot issue (well i think i did, havent drove the truck yet) by ditching the 20+ year old beat to crap radiator and replaced it with a nice / bigger capacity
aluminum unit. That with some new hoses and a good tune-up and i should be good to go.

From years of building hot rods and such you always start with the source of the issue and work your way out. If a vehicle is running hotter then it should or you
like the radiator is the first thing to be swapped out / upgraded. Then hoses, t-stat cap, fan, etc...

My two cents...
thats a bold statement without testing. The stock radiator is a pretty nice unit actually.
 

JoeJrTheBarber

New member
268
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0
Location
Chicago, IL
thats a bold statement without testing. The stock radiator is a pretty nice unit actually.
Mine in my truck was not. Almost all the fins were smashed and the thing itself was pretty plugged up.
And anyone can tell ya a good part of the reasoning that these trucks run hot is the small radiator design that was used by AM General.

Have a issue, Spend the money and fix it, and off to the next.
 
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