• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M1009 Old Front Springs - Droop (What should it look like new?)

Status
Not open for further replies.

dao

New member
48
0
0
Location
Southwest/Texas
I've had this M1009 for about a week now so I'm looking it over, up, down, around and trying to ascertain what all needs to be addressed. Since the tires are dated 2003, that's a place to start, but I'm also wanting to get the suspension and steering in order. The brakes are stopping fine and the engine seems okay so far. Since I'm not familiar with what the stock leaf springs should like, can y'all take a look and provide feedback. I would expect new springs to bow up slightly...not down. It looks like these are just plain worn out, along with all the grease boots/fittings. After doing some research on here, I was going to go with a new Tuff Country 3-4" lift mated with SX8000 shocks and BFG 33x10.5x15 M/Ts. Someone in mods already chimed in and said do not go with the SX8000s but instead go with Bilsteins. All feedback welcome.
 

Attachments

Drock

New member
1,020
12
0
Location
Eatonton GA
(1st), I wouldn't just call the brakes good! Chances are the calipers are rusted in place and can no longer float. Also if the rubber flex lines are the originals then consider them done. Then wheel cylinders, calipers, and master are surely done as well. (2nd) the original front leafs are supposed to have a negative arch, but 30 yrs of sitting I'm sure has taken it's toll. (3rd) If you want to do a lift which is the cheapest over all route, and who doesn't want there truck lifted anyway. I would recommend shopping with (Off road design) they specialize in old Chevy trucks. All other lift kit companies these days consider our trucks obsolete, and the new generation working the phones only speak "Jeep". 2cents
 
Last edited:

dao

New member
48
0
0
Location
Southwest/Texas
Drock, Thanks for the look and advice. I've checked out the ORD site and contacted them for recommendations...lift, steering, brakes, etc. It looks like the right place to go. :)
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,267
2,962
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
The factory spec for the front leaf springs is 2.0" clearance between the bump stop and leaf spring top plate. Yours look pretty low to me.
You also have a lot of "cancer" to go after too. That can destroy a vehicle faster then anything. I once had the whole rear frame drop off my Ford LTD. I had just gotten home and was walking back to the house when I noticed the bumper was almost on the road. The only thing holding up the whole back section of the car was the rear quarter panels ! The frame had totally rusted through.
 
Last edited:

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,427
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I don't know about the quality of lift kit springs. I have replaced dozens of leaf springs on the old CUCV's over the years. I always use made in USA Dayco springs.
Front are Dayco 22-402HD $200. each 4 ply.
Rear are Dayco 22-547HD $300. each standard on the M1008 and M1010 cab chassis I had in snow plow use.
I don't have the M1009 rear spring numbers at the moment. They are still available. They make a truck stand tall with out the need for a lift kit. So I am one of them guys amongst many that don't want or like lift kits. Call me an old Man that is fine. IMHO I never seen any point or had any use for a truck that was lifted in my line of work. It makes everything twice as hard to load and unload. The 4 ply front springs make a fine ride and get the reversed arch out of the springs. Good Luck with your choice. May I also recommend to replace ALL the brake system and ALL the rubber bushings in the suspension along with all 4 shock absorbers. Have a great day. Enjoy your CUCV.
 

iacucv

Member
153
1
18
Location
Spencer, IA
If youre wanting to run 33x10.50s I would suggest replacing your springs with stock height springs and all new bushings. I was considering a 2" lift but decided against it and am very happy. Running 33x12.50s and it still fits in my garage. If you want a touch more, add ORDs 1" zero rate blocks. Rides good, probably better than any lift that wouldnt have cost the left one.
 

Drock

New member
1,020
12
0
Location
Eatonton GA
I don't know about the quality of lift kit springs. I have replaced dozens of leaf springs on the old CUCV's over the years. I always use made in USA Dayco springs.
Front are Dayco 22-402HD $200. each 4 ply.
Rear are Dayco 22-547HD $300. each standard on the M1008 and M1010 cab chassis I had in snow plow use.
I don't have the M1009 rear spring numbers at the moment. They are still available. They make a truck stand tall with out the need for a lift kit. So I am one of them guys amongst many that don't want or like lift kits. Call me an old Man that is fine. IMHO I never seen any point or had any use for a truck that was lifted in my line of work. It makes everything twice as hard to load and unload. The 4 ply front springs make a fine ride and get the reversed arch out of the springs. Good Luck with your choice. May I also recommend to replace ALL the brake system and ALL the rubber bushings in the suspension along with all 4 shock absorbers. Have a great day. Enjoy your CUCV.
HA! When I was writing about the lift, I almost said "except for CUCVRUS" LOL! I disagree, (1st) it's a M1009 so most people won't be hauling large or heavy items in the tiny bed. 2nd I did the math when I bought my lift kit. At the end of the day it's cheaper to just do a 2-1/2" lift kit, then to replace the stock stuff. If you shop around you can have a complete kit that includes shocks, bushings, U-
Bolts, and all the misc hardware, to your door step for around $600.00.
 
Last edited:

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,427
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I'm OK with being deleted from the hacking of lift kits. I always say it's your truck do as you wish. I bought and sold a lot of vehicles in my life. I always received more money and had less money invested in the nice stock ones. It seems many people shy away from hacked up modified vehicles. That has been my experience over the years. Trucks with stacks and lift kits bring far less at the auctions and sales I attended. I also see the value decrease and I smile every time I see a hacked cut up CUCV. I see a lot of nice vehicles being degraded on a weekly basis. I use my M1009 very much and find that small cargo area very useful when complimented with the correct tools. And the addition of a trailer just adds to the versatility. So do as you wish. Many others that will remain silent have the same mind set that I have. I had a nice m1028. I sold it. it came back and now in my opinion it is being degraded to scrap value making it worth about 1/2 its stock value. Again my opinion. ORD is smiling also. All the way to the bank. Drive on my friends. I will bet stock will get more miles and money in the long haul. Have a great day. And thank you for the compliment.

I almost said "except for CUCVRUS" LOL! I disagree, Also remember cheaper is NEVER better. I did the math.
 

Bighorn

New member
445
8
0
Location
N/A
That reverse arch front spring on stock m1009 / k5 blazers offers a lot of front travel.
I never lifted my blazers.
Ever see a lifted blazer on a sidehill?
No thanks.

Sometimes I would unbolt the front sway bar to gain extra travel.
I would keep the stock front springs.
 
Last edited:

Drock

New member
1,020
12
0
Location
Eatonton GA
I'm OK with being deleted from the hacking of lift kits. I always say it's your truck do as you wish. I bought and sold a lot of vehicles in my life. I always received more money and had less money invested in the nice stock ones. It seems many people shy away from hacked up modified vehicles. That has been my experience over the years. Trucks with stacks and lift kits bring far less at the auctions and sales I attended. I also see the value decrease and I smile every time I see a hacked cut up CUCV. I see a lot of nice vehicles being degraded on a weekly basis. I use my M1009 very much and find that small cargo area very useful when complimented with the correct tools. And the addition of a trailer just adds to the versatility. So do as you wish. Many others that will remain silent have the same mind set that I have. I had a nice m1028. I sold it. it came back and now in my opinion it is being degraded to scrap value making it worth about 1/2 its stock value. Again my opinion. ORD is smiling also. All the way to the bank. Drive on my friends. I will bet stock will get more miles and money in the long haul. Have a great day. And thank you for the compliment.

I almost said "except for CUCVRUS" LOL! I disagree, Also remember cheaper is NEVER better. I did the math.
HA! I was just joking with you LOL! I knew you would hate the idea of a lift. And have to agree when most people are shopping for a classic vehicle (myself included), would prefer an unmolested one. But at the same token these trucks aren't 59' Cadillacs. Their never going to be worth a fortune, so a few mild or useful upgrades can't hurt. Especially if you'regoing to keep it forever like me.:driver:
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,427
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I tend to disagree. I would wager that a bone stock 1984 K30 would not get the price that a bone stock M1008 will get. Any limited production vehicle will retain it's value. most production run vehicles are valued on the rareness of different options and that is what makes the CUCV unique and a book can not give you a value. The value is perceived by the buyer and the seller. Unlike most vehicles I can look at market values. CUCV's I bought for $100. running and 10 years old. Others I paid $5K for. That still remains the same today. I see guys saying I bought my M1009 for $600. and that to them reflects the value or devalue of the ones I have or you have. It don't work that way. The only way we get even money for 2 vehicles that are the same model is at current daily scrap value. Of course yours will be worth more then mine it weighs more with the heavier spring packs and blocks. More scrap weight. Just a comparison and description of fair market value. Not saying either yours or mine is scrap. But go to an auction some time. I see guys buying vehicles for more then they could ever dream of selling them for. Why. They want them and that's what is great. I want more CUCV's hacked up and lifted. It keeps bringing more buyers my way that want a nice unmolested vehicle. I kept most of my CUCV's longer then any other vehicle I ever owned. I switch out new trucks every 5 years. have a great day. Enjoy this beautiful weather and take care of yourself and family.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,289
1,775
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
These are definitely worth something and unmolested ones will continue to rise in value.
They only built a certain amount of these and aren't being made anymore.
More are disappearing every day.

I personally can't stand lift kits. That's just me.
But to see a rare (ish) truck get lifited, cut up on, making it a freak of parts just makes me cringe.

I love them stock and I get approached almost daily from people telling me how cool of a truck it is.
Literally, ages from 15 to 70.

20 years from now, unmolested ones will command big bucks. Bet on it.

To each his own and they can do whatever they want since it's their truck, but......enjoy and experience it for a bit before you start modifying it.
The stock truck, as is, just might change your mind.
 

DREDnot

Well-known member
723
443
63
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I would expect new springs to bow up slightly...not down. It looks like these are just plain worn out.
Like has been mentioned, these trucks actually have a reverse arch in the front springs.
Looking at the overall stance, your ride height isn't off much from new stock.

I also agree with the majority that lifting these trucks isn't necessary. The blazer is pretty capable as is.

I would work on maintenance items like fluid/filter changes, brakes, cooling system, and deteriorated rubber items.

I just got my M1009 a few weeks ago and my next item up for attention is some new motor mounts. My fuel supply line is touching the crossmember. That's bad juju and needs to be fixed.
 

DREDnot

Well-known member
723
443
63
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Get the Energy Suspension motor mounts. Happy Happy.
I read your earlier post after searching "motor mounts" and took your advice and went with the energy suspension units. I should be installing them this coming Friday.
My past experience with substandard replacement offerings seems to be similar to yours.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,427
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Energy suspension? Is that a division of GM?.....:whistle:
That is GM. General Maintenance. It is a lift kit for the engine. A much needed one. I bought GM motor mounts they are AC Delco replacements. NOT Genuine GM part. Motor mounts for these old trucks are no longer the same as OEM. Energy Suspension is at least a better or equal replacement. Easy to install and Terminus M1009 tested. From now on I will use terminus M1009 as the bench mark for toughness. Have a great day.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,267
2,962
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I don't know about the quality of lift kit springs. I have replaced dozens of leaf springs on the old CUCV's over the years. I always use made in USA Dayco springs.
Front are Dayco 22-402HD $200. each 4 ply.
Rear are Dayco 22-547HD $300. each standard on the M1008 and M1010 cab chassis I had in snow plow use.
I don't have the M1009 rear spring numbers at the moment. They are still available. They make a truck stand tall with out the need for a lift kit. So I am one of them guys amongst many that don't want or like lift kits. Call me an old Man that is fine. IMHO I never seen any point or had any use for a truck that was lifted in my line of work. It makes everything twice as hard to load and unload. The 4 ply front springs make a fine ride and get the reversed arch out of the springs. Good Luck with your choice. May I also recommend to replace ALL the brake system and ALL the rubber bushings in the suspension along with all 4 shock absorbers. Have a great day. Enjoy your CUCV.
Ever since I was in suspension class at my trade school I have never seen the need or desire for a "lift kit" in any vehicle. I learned at school how the factory spends literally years working on the design of a vehicles suspension. So when some "Joe mechanic" comes along and totally messes up that design and then finds out the bushings are wearing out or some other problem I just laugh. If you need those monster tires to get you through the woods then your not doing it right in my opinion. I've driven a stock 2 wheel drive truck through stuff I've seen 4X4's get stuck in. Learn your vehicle and learn to drive it correctly and it will take you places you never imagined. In tank school I learned you can get a M60 stuck pretty fast if you don't think. Once you learn to drive it properly you will almost never get stuck in any terrain.
So for my money keep it stock. It will last longer and perform better.
 

Drock

New member
1,020
12
0
Location
Eatonton GA
Ever since I was in suspension class at my trade school I have never seen the need or desire for a "lift kit" in any vehicle. I learned at school how the factory spends literally years working on the design of a vehicles suspension. So when some "Joe mechanic" comes along and totally messes up that design and then finds out the bushings are wearing out or some other problem I just laugh. If you need those monster tires to get you through the woods then your not doing it right in my opinion. I've driven a stock 2 wheel drive truck through stuff I've seen 4X4's get stuck in. Learn your vehicle and learn to drive it correctly and it will take you places you never imagined. In tank school I learned you can get a M60 stuck pretty fast if you don't think. Once you learn to drive it properly you will almost never get stuck in any terrain.
So for my money keep it stock. It will last longer and perform better.
I respectfully disagree. Your assuming a man made, mass produced, for profit product is perfect, and has no room for improvement? A small (2-1/2") lift, and 1 size up tire is hardly worth all this fuss LOL! :shrugs: To the untrained eye no one would even know it's been lifted. And it WILL ride much smoother. Also this being a M1009 it lends itself more towards an all around utility vehicle VS a work truck like a pickup truck. 2cents
 

LT67

Well-known member
655
501
93
Location
Bowdon, GA
I've had this M1009 for about a week now so I'm looking it over, up, down, around and trying to ascertain what all needs to be addressed. Since the tires are dated 2003, that's a place to start, but I'm also wanting to get the suspension and steering in order. The brakes are stopping fine and the engine seems okay so far. Since I'm not familiar with what the stock leaf springs should like, can y'all take a look and provide feedback. I would expect new springs to bow up slightly...not down. It looks like these are just plain worn out, along with all the grease boots/fittings. After doing some research on here, I was going to go with a new Tuff Country 3-4" lift mated with SX8000 shocks and BFG 33x10.5x15 M/Ts. Someone in mods already chimed in and said do not go with the SX8000s but instead go with Bilsteins. All feedback welcome.
You won't need a lift with 33x10.5x15's..... I have them on my 74 K10 with sagging springs and I've never had any problems with tire rubbing... not even off road.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks