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Thanks for the add, finally picked up my 1990 M1037 looking forward to minting "THOR"

Pisquinii

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Thanks for the add, finally picked up my 1990 M1037 looking forward to minting "THOR"

Thanks for the add, finally picked up my 1990 M1037 looking forward to minting "THOR" OUT! LOL. (wife named him),
Kinda fitting it being delivered on Veteran's Day!
I have a few questions, who is the best person to talk to.
Thankshummer 2017 vets day.jpg
 

Pisquinii

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Thank you Norm!

Thor runs awesome, when I can start him. A little shot of ether starts and runs great but if I try to start cold after the wait light cycles, it just cranks with white smoke? Is there a cold start procedure I am missing?

I realize the M1037 is the Shelter carrier version. I am curious can I install the regular M998 springs in the back if I just want to leave it as a pickup? Or is there really no difference in the ride?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

NormB

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Um, ether? In a HMMWV?

Step away from the can, son.

White smoke’s unburned diesel.

Start with glowplugs (check, replace) and S3 box (PCB).

Springs? Several threads beating that one to death. Retiredwarhorse has had a lot of input into this.

Go to the HMMWV forum (here), and start going through page after page of posts. Do this for several days.

Get copies of ALL the manuals.

Dig in.

Norm
 

NDT

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Welcome. Where did you find a M1037? Yes you can swap out the rear springs, they do not deflect AT ALL with no shelter load.
 

Pisquinii

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Thanks 98G
NDT, I found it on ebay and was looking at it on Gov Planet buy missed the auction...it is clean and figured I can change springs. I think I will need M998 spring and spacer cause M1037 has larger spring and room for it
 

Dock Rocker

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What is the starting procedure for starting a cold 1990 M1037? Just want to make sure it is no me...lol
The starting procedure assumes that you have 8 working glowplugs. The procedure is turn the start switch one click and wait for the wait light to go out. Then move the switch to the right until it starts. Allow ample time to warm up. If you are storing it outside and it’s cold consider a block heater to make the oil flow a little better.

There are lots of good videos on how to test glow plugs as well as replace them on YouTube. Don’t forget you have to get 24volt glow plugs. The parts house will argue with you do order them from Kascar or Midwest.

If you have one functional glow plug and you hit it with ether you will hurt the Motor so i would toss the can ASAP.

If you aren’t getting voltage to your glow plugs then you will need a new control box.


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NDT

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Thanks 98G
NDT, I found it on ebay and was looking at it on Gov Planet buy missed the auction...it is clean and figured I can change springs. I think I will need M998 spring and spacer cause M1037 has larger spring and room for it
You may be interested to know that you have one of the only two M1037s released, yours truly has the other.
 

Pisquinii

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Ok thank you Dock R, Isn't there some kind of advance ya nee to set by tapping the gas petal after wait before cranking?
 

Dock Rocker

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Ok thank you Dock R, Isn't there some kind of advance ya nee to set by tapping the gas petal after wait before cranking?
If it’s got good fuel and good glow plugs just crank it and let it warm up. You shouldn’t have to do anything other that wait. If you would like to idle it up a little there is a throttle control by your knee. Pull it out a little and give yourself a few hundred more rpms if you like. Unless it’s really cold (it really never gets cold in MS) I don’t even do that.


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Pisquinii

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If your glow plugs are new, I suspect a different point of failure. Troubleshoot before throwing parts at it...
Previous owner changed but not really sure, so I was gonna test them but would like to by a set to have incase I need to change. Id like to change with the best that you can recommend?

Thanks
 

1 Patriot-of-many

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If your glow plugs were good, I bet they are bad now. NO ETHER EVER. You can test your glow plugs, lead to ground. I believe they should be 2.5 to 5 ohms or maybe 2.1 to 5 ohms, can't remember for sure it's in the AM general troubleshooting guide.
 
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papakb

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Something to keep in mind is that you don't want to crank on it forever. The usual guideline is you don't want to run the starter for more than about 20 seconds and then wait another 20 seconds before trying it again. Overheating the starter is the best way to kill it and it's an SOB to change out. When everything is working these engines start right up. When the glow plugs start failing it takes longer because your not compressing fuel in cylinders with an ignition source (hot glow plug). White vapor out the tailpipe is a sign of unburnt fuel. When the control box fails none of the glow plugs will be hot or the control box will have left them on and burned them all out for you. The voltmeter will cycle when the glow plugs are heating up so you want to watch it for activity indicating they're working. If they're burnt out the voltmeter won't move. Luckily they're easy enough to check with a multimeter. Also, there is a very good flow chart in the -20 manual that guides you through troubleshooting the starting system that you should be familiar with. I always tell new owners to download and read through the manuals. 90% of the problems your going to have are in there and they're free on multiple websites online. Hardcopies are nice to have around when your working on your truck and most Guard and Reserve units have plenty of extras around and will usually give you a copy if you ask.

And a word to the wise: NEVER USE ETHER! Unless you really like doing engine work!
 
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Pisquinii

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Thanks for all the help, I have a
Prestolite Protective Control Box, I 'd like to change it out to a​

Nartron S3. I have a question. It comes with the TSU and where do I install it. Is it under the black cap with the wires coming out of it near the no step stamp on the air intake?

View attachment 708226
 
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