FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

Tell me more about the special tool.

Not having the special tool, I've simply used a hair dryer to soften up the plastic a bit, then push it in place.

 

[Speedwoble]

Well I certainly need one, PM me if you want to sell me one, or let me know your source, and I will order some as well.

I have extras because I figured someone else would run into the same problem I had. $5 to your door if you want one. PM me.

Tell me more about the special tool. As many lines as there are going all over the place, I suspect I will need to become proficient at making hard lines as well. As Peakbagger said as the lines age the plastic loosens up and leaks at the joints. I am sure that the regulation way to correct that is to just replace the line and if cheap / easy enough that is probably the best way to fix it. My inclination is to follow Peakbagger's solution though.

I posted a picture of my tool on page 204. Couch posted a picture of his on page 203. Picture of mine:https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...Owners-group&p=1977442&viewfull=1#post1977442

Words cannot explain how easy this is. It makes me want to convert everything else to this type of line. The hard plastic line doesn’t flop around like rubber, so it is easier to route. You can get clear lines so you can see the fuel.

To improve on Peakbagger’s solution though is to get a Clamptite tool and make wire crimps around them.

 

[rtrask]

I posted a picture of my tool on page 204. Couch posted a picture of his on page 203. Picture of mine:https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...Owners-group&p=1977442&viewfull=1#post1977442

Words cannot explain how easy this is. It makes me want to convert everything else to this type of line. The hard plastic line doesn’t flop around like rubber, so it is easier to route. You can get clear lines so you can see fuel

Do you use heat like FLU farm suggested? Or just use the tool and a mallet? It looks like it has slots for 5 sizes of tubes. Is that sufficient for the sizes used on a SEE?


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[The FLU farm]

Today's FLU useage was to place a 20-foot culvert. Yes, it could've been done with a tractor, but using the HMMH is more precise. And more fun.

If the weather cooperates, tomorrow's task will be to get a SEE into the ditch to dig it out. That'll be a fight against gravity, laterally. And literally.

 

[alpine44]

The tool clamps the hose tight on one side and is relieved for the hose to expand on the other side. Clamp hose in the tool and smack the fittings in with a rubber mallet.View attachment 666343

Drilling a stepped hole into the joint line of two clamped-together blocks of aluminum or hardwood is not as fancy but works just as well.

 

[rtrask]

Drilling a stepped hole into the joint line of two clamped-together blocks of aluminum or hardwood is not as fancy but works just as well.

I like the sounds of that. The tool looks like vice grips attached to a kind of hard rubber/plastic form. From Speedwoble's description, and the picture I would guess that the bottom hole is slightly under sized to grip the line, and the top is slightly oversized to allow the line to expand when the fitting is driven in. The advantage of the roll your own approach is that you can accommodate all the different sizes on th FLU. I think a heat gun before and after like FLU farm suggested might create the best results in conjunction with the form. The factory joints kind of look like they are shrink wrapped over the fitting.

Bel-Metric offers their own version for $50.

https://www.belmetric.com/general-t...-p-3610.html?zenid=u8483kp89co91a7a4j9pmasnb3

It looks like a similar form based approach. I can't tell if that round knob is just a handle or intended as a mallet to seat the fitting.

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[FarmMOG]

The one cooling fan is working, and comes on after about 15 minutes of idling or quicker if the engine RPM is higher. Yesterday was the first day I actually used the tractor to move a large pile of dirt. The front hydraulics really got a workout with the fan running the whole time. I stopped many times and checked the temperature of the hydraulic oil going into the cooler by placing my hand around the hose. It was warm, but really didn't seem overly hot. I am wondering if the temperature sensor is kicking the fan on at a lower temp. Not being very familiar with hydraulics, the heat I am feeling might be normal, but I don't have any exact measurements to tell what temperature the oil is actually reaching or what temperature the oil cooler turns on. I haven't had the time to switch the power leads around and check the other fan for correct operation.


The hydraulic servo pack for the front hydraulics has an extra line and some sort of valve assembly coming off the electric servo of the loader arms. All the lines have orange tape around them, making me wonder if they were disconnected at some point. Every hydraulic line except one has been replaced on the loader, making me wonder if there was some sort of problem. Probably trying to get the loader arms to lower, which I had to get a new check valve and replace the old one, which was the wrong part number. It was the valve labeled Choke in the drawing. I was very happy with the work performed yesterday, and hopefully it will continue to be the workhorse for which it was purchased.

I haven't had any issues with my front hydraulics but if the fluid is heating up you have one of two issues, some component is creating resistance in the fluid circuits or the hydraulic cooler fan is not working. There is a known issue with SEEs that the hydraulic cooler fans failed due to water leaking into grommets. The fan only runs when the fluid gets warm enough. The electrical troubleshooting has some very good diagnostics on the fan system. (Unfortunately there is no source of new fans unless you want to buy the entire unit. I just bought 24 volt truck cooling fans and retrofitted the mounts)

These diagrams came from the technical download forums from a student handbook that a member uploaded. They may be helpful (as are all the other diagrams that are not in the official services manuals)

I would ensure that the fan and thermostat is working and then my next guess would be look for something plugging the device labeled "CHOKE" .

 

[FarmMOG]

This picture is some sort of check valve from the electric loader arm servo to the out side of the valve pack. I can't find it in any of the manuals, and can only guess that it is an overpressure relief valve. Any ideas?

I also did some more dirt work today with both the front loader and backhoe. Yesterday and today the front hydraulics didn't really heat up much when I was constantly using them, but when I drove around a little and then used the backhoe, they really started to get warm. The rear hydraulics didn't even get warm after using them. This brings up an interesting observation: the front hydraulics don't seem to heat up much when constantly using them, but can get hot when the engine is running and not being used. I am almost ready to call a professional and have him take a look if I can't get anything figured out soon. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. The cooler fan is working, so that is not the problem. Thanks.

 

[Speedwoble]

This brings up an interesting observation: the front hydraulics don't seem to heat up much when constantly using them, but can get hot when the engine is running and not being used. I am almost ready to call a professional and have him take a look if I can't get anything figured out soon. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. The cooler fan is working, so that is not the problem. Thanks.

Have you checked that your auxiliary circuit is turned off? The most heat will come if some valve is halfway on and forcing the pressure through the pressure relief.

{edit} remember, fluid only flows between the pump to the valve stack and back to the tank unless a valve is actuated, so focus on those things first.

 

[The FLU farm]

This brings up an interesting observation: the front hydraulics don't seem to heat up much when constantly using them, but can get hot when the engine is running and not being used.

That sure sounds like a restriction somewhere in the system to me. Or, like Speedwoble suggested, the tool circuit is on, but without the high idle function.
I'd think that you should be able to hear the fluid fighting to get through somewhere.

 

[Speedwoble]

I like the sounds of that. The tool looks like vice grips attached to a kind of hard rubber/plastic form. From Speedwoble's description, and the picture I would guess that the bottom hole is slightly under sized to grip the line, and the top is slightly oversized to allow the line to expand when the fitting is driven in. The advantage of the roll your own approach is that you can accommodate all the different sizes on th FLU. I think a heat gun before and after like FLU farm suggested might create the best results in conjunction with the form. The factory joints kind of look like they are shrink wrapped over the fitting.

No. This is not heat shrink tubing. If anything, it slightly expands when heated.
I took additional photos of the tool, including the part number. It handles 6-8-10-11-12mm tubing. I install them cold. Alpine is correct, a person can drill a stepped hole in a piece of aluminum and achieve the same thing. Guys on the Camaro forum made one out of a chalking gun. https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-...uel-line-fitting-attachment.html#post15193388



Only two more T’s left.

 

[FarmMOG]

Have you checked that your auxiliary circuit is turned off? The most heat will come if some valve is halfway on and forcing the pressure through the pressure relief.

I am sure it is turned off at the switch, but have not checked to see if there is any residual pressure in the lines. I will check it tomorrow when there is some light outside. Daylight Savings sure brings the darkness early these days.

Update: I tried to connect the two aux hydraulic lines today while the tractor was running and couldn't because of pressure in the line, even though the switch was off. I shut down everything and bled off the pressure, then connected them together. The engine seems to have a little more power and the fluid is not heating up at all. I know during the troubleshooting for the front loader arms that the switch works, so it must be the valve assembly itself that needs work. I am sure I can use everything with the aux lines connected together for a while, so am very thankful to finally find out what the problem was. Thanks a million to everyone who helped me diagnose and find the problem.


2nd Update: After running the tractor for at least three hours continuously the front hydraulics barely even got warm. Now I know what needs to be fixed when I get around to doing some more hydraulic work to it, like adding an additional line from the rear hydraulics to the front, and installing electrically operated servo valve pack to control implements working on the front loader. Thanks again for the help.

 

[The FLU farm]

View attachment 707177

Those Tees look like something available in the "Help" section of most auto parts store.
If not (actually, regardless), I would use a brass Tee and three barbed fittings if I needed one.

 

[rtrask]

Those Tees look like something available in the "Help" section of most auto parts store.
If not (actually, regardless), I would use a brass Tee and three barbed fittings if I needed one.

6mm is close to 1/4, a little smaller .236
4mm is close to 5/32 a little bigger

I don't know might be able to find a tee like that at the auto parts store.

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[The FLU farm]

I don't know might be able to find a tee like that at the auto parts store.

Maybe not, which is what making one from an NPT Tee and three barbed brass fittings is more appealing to me.
You can always machine, or even file, down a fitting to a slightly smaller diameter.

 

[Migginsbros]

O.K. we fixed our fueltank problems and filled up tanks from the vehicles full to the neck with diesel, biozid and flowfit for winter.
B.t.w. we throw in our SEE this month at the poll. Have a look https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...diers-MV-of-the-month-2017-November-VOTE-HERE!

 

[The FLU farm]

...filled up tanks from the vehicles full to the neck with diesel, biozid and flowfit for winter.

With the highly publicized onset of global warming, I wasn't going to use any anti-gel this winter.
But I may have to rethink that. It's supposed to be 10 degrees tonight.

 

[Migginsbros]

With the highly publicized onset of global warming, I wasn't going to use any anti-gel this winter.
But I may have to rethink that. It's supposed to be 10 degrees tonight.

Thats´s pretty cold. If you work around your house there´s no problem but if you get some roadspeed for some minutes perhaps the fuel filters get much colder.

 

[The FLU farm]

Thats´s pretty cold. If you work around your house there´s no problem but if you get some roadspeed for some minutes perhaps the fuel filters get much colder.

Oh, 10 degrees isn't particularly cold for around here in the winter. It'll get down to -20 at times.

I did make the rounds yesterday, putting anti-gel in most of the tanks with diesel. In the process it became painfully obvious that I need to sell a few vehicles.
Counted 15 vehicle tanks (two vehicles with dual tanks technically makes it 17), three storage tanks, one trailer mounted tank, and a stand-by generator.

Ran out of anti-gel, of course, but the ones in the garage are fine as is for now.

 

[Migginsbros]

Be prepared.