I'd use fine thread and take one of my old taps and flatten it, taking about 1/4" off so it will tap to near the bottom after running a (fine, new) tap down. Caution, bottoming the tap gets solid fast and you can break them off easy.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
All 5-tons: Heavy Duty Torque Rod Ends
- Thread starter MyothersanM1
- Start date
I'd use fine thread and take one of my old taps and flatten it, taking about 1/4" off so it will tap to near the bottom after running a (fine, new) tap down. Caution, bottoming the tap gets solid fast and you can break them off easy.
- 2,661
- 2,192
- 113
- Location
- Sunman Indiana
Good to see they aren’t hardened.
Let us know how this goes, I need some motivation to crawl under there and give it a shot.
74M35A2
Well-known member
- 4,145
- 330
- 83
- Location
- Livonia, MI
Yep, that is exactly why I checked it.
74M35A2
Well-known member
- 4,145
- 330
- 83
- Location
- Livonia, MI
TNJ had the best current price on the stock replacements, $78ea, I just ordered 11 of them to rehab all of mine. Lathe and drill on standby, retainer plates already made. I'll probably get this done before the engine swap. Will post more as it goes, need to make the swampdonkey top-center nut removal tool.
Shirehorse
Member
- 169
- 23
- 18
- Location
- Mantua, OH
Give that tool to me when you're done, clint
74M35A2
Well-known member
- 4,145
- 330
- 83
- Location
- Livonia, MI
Whoa, I’m not even sure which bin to put that in. 
Shirehorse
Member
- 169
- 23
- 18
- Location
- Mantua, OH
Keep dreaming, buddy! 
74M35A2
Well-known member
- 4,145
- 330
- 83
- Location
- Livonia, MI
11 new torque rod end links just showed up at my desk today. So, tomorrow I am going to pick up a spiral flute tap (?) for the 1/2"-13 threads I am going to cut into the back side center of them for the 6" diameter retention plates. I really don't feel like hand tapping twelve 1/2" holes, just the thought of doing so gives me carpal-tunnel. We have a lathe and mill here at work, so I'm going to try and power tap the holes. I researched it for about 15 seconds on the internet, so that should make me an expert. Seems like key points is to chamfer the hole after drilling, then put downward pressure on the quill/spindle as you motor the tap into the material. Then, absolute key point is being able to stop the tapping mill at or before your desired depth point. Yeah, we'll see how that works out. Next pic will likely be of a broken tap and another order for one replacement new torque-rod end link. I probably should not be hi-jacking somebody else's thread to talk about myself, but want to show this as an option. The ball joint type links seems not available anymore from Erik's though.
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
- 27,786
- 755
- 113
- Location
- Cincy Ohio
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
- 27,786
- 755
- 113
- Location
- Cincy Ohio
Might try to find a tap-matic too.
big block 88
Member
- 862
- 17
- 18
- Location
- Topeka/Kansas
Ive tapped 304 for weeks on end when i was a wee fella just starting in the trade. We used a huge ww2 era drill press. I just ran tons of oil and dead slow on rotation (i cant remember rpm any more i would say around 100 rpm). But it worked great. Not sure how hard the dog bine ends are but i would "ass"ume not as hard as 304.
74M35A2
Well-known member
- 4,145
- 330
- 83
- Location
- Livonia, MI
Thanks. Definently open to any and all opinions/advice on this one.
YouTube had all sorts off fancy self-reversing heads and drill press depth switches. I don’t have any of that, so I’m just going to run it straight up and see what happens.
YouTube had all sorts off fancy self-reversing heads and drill press depth switches. I don’t have any of that, so I’m just going to run it straight up and see what happens.
Last edited:
- 6,426
- 4,985
- 113
- Location
- Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
It is tough learning how to be a machinist when one ain't one.
Speed and feeds and pressure and torque.
Don't break stuff. the setup is everything.
Be careful.
It was built with 50 year old tooling. Think of that.
Speed and feeds and pressure and torque.
Don't break stuff. the setup is everything.
Be careful.
It was built with 50 year old tooling. Think of that.
74M35A2
Well-known member
- 4,145
- 330
- 83
- Location
- Livonia, MI
I may see if I can buy one of these "floating" tap holding chucks tomorrow when I pick up the tap, if they are not crazy priced. Looks like it is spring loaded (or not) in the tap pressure apply direction, to lessen the direct influence of the spindle handle position. The self-reversing one are totally knarly, but tapping 12 rod ends doesn't justify the cost of one.
Thanks for your input, all.
Thanks for your input, all.
- 2,661
- 2,192
- 113
- Location
- Sunman Indiana
Buy 11 taps.
Sell me the ends with broken taps at a deep discount.
If you don’t know what your doing, do it real fast...
74M35A2
Well-known member
- 4,145
- 330
- 83
- Location
- Livonia, MI
You’ll get a box of broken taps, and compliments on your welds.
rustystud
Well-known member
- 9,279
- 2,984
- 113
- Location
- Woodinville, Washington
Lukes_deuce
Active member
- 447
- 124
- 43
- Location
- Long Island, NY
Are you planning on using the mill or lathe? Personally, I feel more comfortable with a mill but once I was taught, I found it to be easier on a lathe. You have more control and speed options on a lathe plus its already made to feed in the horizontal plane. I would put the tap in the tailstock, or end piece and then put the bushing in the chuck. Put the motor on real slow and slowly introduce the tap into the bushing. It will feed it self once started.
Use what ever machine you are more comfortable on. Either one can snap a tap real quick.
Out of curiosity, why not weld a plate across the back of the bushing after its in? Looking for a more professional look?
Use what ever machine you are more comfortable on. Either one can snap a tap real quick.
Out of curiosity, why not weld a plate across the back of the bushing after its in? Looking for a more professional look?