I’m already leaning that way at the moment. I have found some info on the pump, and the after reading the manual some it actually has more info in it than I had anticipated. Only problem is that the plunger/barrel assembly (matched sets) are pretty expensive for this pump, which is why the rebuilt/reman ones go for a very pretty penny.
Hey Mos, sorry you can’t catch a break!
Weren’t you playing with the injection timing shortly before this all started? I think I remember that the pump itself can be advanced, maybe a good time to have the pros due that as well, so you can just pin time your pump back on.
I was also wondering the quality of the fuel you’ll encounter once you take the truck south, and if there would be a timing that would work best in that case? Guessing dirt and water would be the biggest issue you’ll run into though...
Yeah, I had tried to advance the timing once before and immediately hanged it back to stock, or what it was before I changed it. Of course now I don’t remember why I did that, but that was one of the questions I asked when I was on the phone with them yesterday.
Ive also wondered about the fuel quality down there as well, but not much I can find out about that without actually going there in person.
I can't believe the luck, and stamina you have. 9.8 out of 10 people here have no issues with the 8.3L. It is pretty well hardened and proven. You are on the way to knowing more about this engine and configuration than anybody else here.
I see the military 8.3L MW pumps on ebay for relatively cheap. I would pull the end cap off of yours, and see if you can work the rack rod back and forth to free it up. It sounds like you moved it once already, so it is not totally seized.
If not, then simply replace it with a $200 eBay pump. Or go big and throw a P-7100 on it, but I think you really just want it running for now. Target 980hp later......
Thanks man, it’s certainly been a trying time while this truck has been down. Even this pump is normally bulletproof, but this time I’m fairly certain I can say that it was my fault. I forgot to cap off the delivery valves on the pump and with being exposed to the weather for a better part of a year I’m lucky it wasn’t worse than this. I could just take the delivery valve off, and then try to work with that barrel/plunger assembly with it still in the pump. Basically see if I can get it to free up, but there’s no guarantee I can get that to work, or that I won’t do some damage to the finish inside the barrel. I might soak it with some WD-40 and see what that does. I don’t think I would need to get inside to play with the rack if it is only a plunger that is stuck, but we shall see. I just don’t want to have to get inside this pump if I don’t have to, there is at least one tool I don’t have that I would need if I had to do a full rebuild on it.
I did take a look on eBay and saw a few PES6MW pumps, but they were all rebuilt/reman units and were close to or right at $5k on average. Of course I’m not willing to spend that kind of money at all, mainly because I just don’t have it. At this point I’ll be lucky if I have $750 next month before the bills. I have seen other Bosch inline pumps for much cheaper, but I don’t know enough of the inner workings or what is compatible with what since most of those don’t have the same governor housing like our trucks have.
The Bosch P7100 pump did cross my mind, but I’m not sure what else would have to be changed to make it work on this engine. Yes, I know others have done it, but I haven’t bothered to look since I wasn’t ever planning to change to that pump. Besides, only power increase I might go to is ~300hp/950ftlb, which is the upper limit of the transmission. Overall, I haven’t been upset about the power of this engine (except when I was limping it home
) , I’m only upset about the lack of any kind of overdrive in this transmission. I have an idea to remedy that, but I’ll save that for a different thread.