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Deuce belt driven power steering complete

B

Bill in pa

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
homer city pa
For the last two week I've been off work so here's what I've been doing.
I started with a 1987 A.m. General deuce and a half.
Removed the driver side fender and many other parts.
I went to a scrap yard I knew of and he had the Mid 80's chevy with the gear box I wanted.
After removing from the truck I paid the guy the $100 he wanted.
There were brackets to be made. Belts to be switched and admittedly ordered the steering shaft and drag link from waterloo truck.
LOOONG story short it works great. Box and Pump were NOT rebuilt. No leaks. No drips..
If anyone has any question please contact me directly.
I have more pictures to share just not up loaded yet.

Im not 100% sure I can do this but my name is Bill.

My email is binnalljr@yahoo.com
 

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rustystud

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
Hey Bill how's your steering radius ? Full right to full left ? Any problems with the steering stops ?
The only other problem I see would be the belt. Since it must turn the air-compressor and power steering pump that is a "Lot" of torque on that belt. Any problems with it spinning under load ?
All in all you did a mighty fine job of fabricating that unit in there !
 
oboyjohn

oboyjohn

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Quebec , Canada
That is a pretty clean setup. But like Rustystud said, it would be quite the load for one belt to handle. Our Deuces in Canada, known as MLVW (medium logistics vehicle wheeled) came from the factory with power steering. The compressor was driven by one belt, the generator by a dual belt setup and the P/S pump by a third. To accommodate the 4 belts, the harmonic balancer has 4 grooves. The power steering itself is a Ross unit model HFB-52022 and the pump is Eaton Corp model 16352-1 with a remote reservoir and built in filter. Where the steering box is bolted to the frame, there is a re-enforcement plate riveted on the inside.
IMG_0649.jpg
 
B

Bill in pa

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
homer city pa
first way.jpgI have full steering same as I did before the conversion.
Will turn from stop to stop. I have had no hard spots on the wheel due to the belt slipping.
There have also been no squeaking.
The picture you see here is the first way I had the pump. But when I went to put the fender on it hit the pulley.
 
rustystud

rustystud

Well-known member
9,261
2,954
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Bill in pa said:
View attachment 751080I have full steering same as I did before the conversion.
Will turn from stop to stop. I have had no hard spots on the wheel due to the belt slipping.
There have also been no squeaking.
The picture you see here is the first way I had the pump. But when I went to put the fender on it hit the pulley.
Click to expand...
Nothing a little high speed grinder cannot take care of !
 
B

brianp454

Member
572
11
18
Location
Portland, OR
Very nice work and thanks for sharing a great post! Using the Saginaw 710 Metric and other hardware is a viable option to using the HF54, which is much more difficult to find.

I was concerned about this setup if running wider singles on front, yet think it is likely OK as long as the wheel offset is reasonable for singles (not the stock A2 wheels with 395's). The pitman arm moves away from the tire as the tire moves toward it (right turn), hopefully maintaining plenty of clearance. Can you take a pic at a couple angles showing that clearance? Perhaps with a measuring tape or object that everyone understands dimensionaly (such as a 2x4) in view?

On the issue of overloading the v-belt. Any decent mechanic that has worked on belt drive PW setups knows that the system is stressed when you hit the stops. You have a pretty good "wrap" of contact on the belt on each pulley and should do fine if kept tightened properly and cleaned. If you tighten the belt exactly per the TM, when does the belt chirp? If it does not chirp in normal operation (driving) and when making aggressive turns, you are good! You could try tightening the belt loose intentionally and see then it starts to chirp to see how much margin you have. Of course, you do not want to over-tighten as it is hard on the bearings in the pump and compressor.

Bill in pa said:
For the last two week I've been off work so here's what I've been doing.
I started with a 1987 A.m. General deuce and a half.
Removed the driver side fender and many other parts.
I went to a scrap yard I knew of and he had the Mid 80's chevy with the gear box I wanted.
After removing from the truck I paid the guy the $100 he wanted.
There were brackets to be made. Belts to be switched and admittedly ordered the steering shaft and drag link from waterloo truck.
LOOONG story short it works great. Box and Pump were NOT rebuilt. No leaks. No drips..
If anyone has any question please contact me directly.
I have more pictures to share just not up loaded yet.

Im not 100% sure I can do this but my name is Bill.

My email is binnalljr@yahoo.com
Click to expand...
 
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