ede356
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The switch and the lights work fine on my FLU. I'll have to look and SEE how hard it would be to make the backup switch do both. Funny how the switch and the lights are called "back-up' in the diagram, but the "working light" switch is the only thing wired to them........ The only reason they will come on is if you use the switch. Note I think these switches were part of an service advisory that they could fail by water getting in them
That should be as simple as using the wire for the alarm to trigger a relay for the lights.The switch and the lights work fine on my FLU. I'll have to look and SEE how hard it would be to make the backup switch do both.
I wear ear protection when running the snowblower. 2,200 rpm and the 'blower makes for a lot of noise.I wear ear plugs whenever I am running mine so the backup alarm does not bother me. The low pressure alarm on the dash is far more annoying and is didconnected.
As I recall, they're normal 5/20W bulbs with bayonet, as in most earlier vehicles. Except 24 Volt, of course.Which leaves the other external lights. What size/type/socket are those bulbs in the tail/bo/marker lights?
Regards,
SJ
Is there a common failure point on the horn?
I've pulled the horn/hi/low-beam switch apart and that appears to be good. Fuses under the hood are good. I haven't metered it at the horn yet because I don't want to scrape the CARC off (and invite cancer). And before I take the next step in the TM and go pulling things apart under the hood, I thought I'd ask...
Well come on over for some fun in the dirt and some food, if you ever get bored of NM swing on up. Born an raised back east so hospitality is superb, plus the tea is fantastic! We have just shy of 500acres of a play ground, lot of work to be done and fun to be had. Keep you all informed of all the projects that will be going on. Thanks for the help!Welcome, Joshua. We're practically neighbors, probably less than 450 miles apart.
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