- 432
- 798
- 93
- Location
- Orygun
M35A2 transfer case front axle output shaft spins wrong way for the GMC front axle.
So why can't I just flip the front center section upside down to match the Rockwell T-case input ?
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
M35A2 transfer case front axle output shaft spins wrong way for the GMC front axle.
Flip the front center section upside down and it spins the right way. You need to do 2 other things.
1. Grind a notch in the housing so the ring gear fits in the housing.
2. You have to cut 1/2"-3/4" off one of the axle shafts. I can't remember what side, but it is obvious.
I have done it on an axle stuffed in a pulling truck many years ago.
Thanks for initiating the discussion. Keep us posted.
I will be flipping the front axle and rotating the pinion down on my truck's front axle. My set up is 6BTA, Eaton FSO-6046 and a Ford NP205 transfer case. It will be used for hauling stuff, but not lugging a bazzilion pounds of water up hills and dales so the NP 205 is too light duty for you. Just some things to think about.
T-case is staying where its at, as it has the two rear outputs needed for the M211 way of powering the rear drivers .It's that 50's technology where they decided to use the same axle on the front. Since it runs a different direction with the pumpkin facing in, they had to design the front drive in the TC to go 'backwards'.
Well if that's the case then he could leave the front axle housing in the stock position, flip the chunk (3rd member) and just run a chevy T-case for pass drop .
Flipping the front axle will let you run a modern TC where the front drive runs 'forward'. I think the top dog bone clearance will become apparent when you lower a different engine in there. Everything has a solution though.
If dog bone clearance becomes an issue on my repower, then dogbones will go away and fix mount @ front leafs and rear shackles will come into play, I think that is a goofy overcomplicated unnecessary setup anyway and if it gives me a seconds trouble it's gone, they say it's for additional articulation, which I need not at all .
There's one more test you can do on your truck to see if the TC is working properly. Find a slick hill and see if the front axle engages when you back up. If your original TC is coming out and getting sold a little back up a hill video would say a lot.
If i was smart I would have used the engine/tranny from the same truck, but wasn't so lucky to get all the ingredients in one vechicle and after 2 years of waiting for said vehicle I bought what was available...and a side note I would pass on any part from Active Truck Parts in Co..Hmmmmm, I have a bunch of questions about this, so here goes ... I'm assuming that 12 valve and 6 speed hooked together in their previous life like in a delivery truck ?
There was a guy in New Mexico that was gearing up to make it possible but in the end he was getting really sick and he stop posting. I happened to have the Ford 205 around.You must have a divorced F205 as I have never seen one bolted to the back of an Eaton ?
See above, it does help with clearance, not that it isn't doable.Why are you going to all the trouble to flip that front axle, is this all to make room for the Cummins exhaust ? I must be missing something because I doubt you would do all that work for a downpipe .
I dug around a bit and could not actually find what I was looking for, I wanted to see a breakdown of the inner workings of that funky Hi-Lo on the back of the Hydromatic and also the T-case, I'm sure the manuals are there, but as most of the time I'm on my phone it can be hard to see and navigate, I won't object if someone throws a link up, or I'll keep looking when time allows .If you keep the original transfer case and add some other transmission be aware of the automatic sprag inside the transfer case that actuates the front driveshaft. It is my understanding the transfer case has to be shifted to either forward or neutral for it to engage. If I remember correctly the sprag engages at about 6% slippage. There is linkage from the trans to the transfer case to change direction of the sprag or something like that. The manuals go into more details. Have you downloaded them yet?
I can, but If I had to do it again I most likely would not do it the way I did, I simply used the gasket as a template and cut the round Deuce mount flange to fit within the 211 mount flange, cut out the center of the 211 flange and welded the two together, then since the tank is shorter you just slide the pump up the mult-hole drop brackets and done. In hindsight I should have just repaired the old pump which was packed with this weird grey chalk like substance that turns to dust between your fingers, don't know what it was, still dont, and it's still in there in the stock old pump . The newer style Deuce of pump puts out alot more pressure as my cheapo plastic fuel filter is mildly puffed out , since there is no return on this gas motor I believe that issue will be eliminated when the diesel engine goes in .Can you give us more details on how you upgraded the fuel pump to one from an M35A2? What modifications were required?
Going to quote myself here to say that I finally realized what the reason is, and of course it's that upper link that is a half inch away from the starter now in stock configuration, so that's what I was missing [Homer]Why are you going to all the trouble to flip that front axle, is this all to make room for the Cummins exhaust ? I must be missing something because I doubt you would do all that work for a downpipe .
Looking at the double shackle set up on the m-211 front axle maybe making a new front spring mount that drops down to keep the right pinion level and lets the spring pin in with out the shackle . The torque rods would not be needed.
All the IHC Scouts had front mounted shackles. Yes they handled a bit wonky at times, but off road they where great !Indeed, I'm not at all a fan of what is going on with that front axle mounting wise, and since the front leafs already have a shackle at the front, I could remove those ginourmus rear brackets hanging down for the rear shackle/control arm mounts, along with the upper control arm, and just build a simple bracket at the rear leaf and do away with about 240 lbs worth of "in my way" .
Some will say the shackles should be at the rear of the leaf for improved driveability, and I won't argue that, but since the front leafs already have the shackle at the front and front shackles work better off road because they increase forward bite, I'm inclined to leave them that way and see how it goes .
The front axle also doesn't have much for front spring perches since it simply was not necessary in that design, so I may give the leafs a bit more of a place to sit also if I go that route .
That's a pretty rare beast from a Civil Defense aspect so grabbing pictures and storing them at one of the U.S. CD museums would be real cool. http://www.civildefensemuseum.com/
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!