Adding a 240V 30A outlet to an 802A

[uniquify]

For the past several months I've been on the lookout for some extra outlets that could be added to a MEP-802A or MEP-803A easily and seamlessly. Recently, I came across a watertight L14-30 twist lock receptacle (Hubbell HBL2710SW) that was a close match to the cover above the right rear tie-down ring.


I say close match because the bolt holes for that cover are 3" on center, and the bolt holes on the outlet were 3 1/8" on center. I decided that a slight modification to the MEP was tolerable and proceeded to use a small file to stretch the holes. The goal was to remove just enough to material to accommodate the outlet, but not so much that they couldn't be hidden by the original cover if I decided to remove the outlet. There was also a clearance issue with one of the bolts that holds the tie-down ring. I probably could have cut some threads off the bolt to make room for the outlet, but I took the easy route and just flipped it over so the nut is outside the enclosure.


Don't forget to attach the wires to the outlet before bolting the outlet to the generator. I used some 8 gauge wire that was left over from a previous project, but 10 gauge would have been good enough for 30 amps.

The original 4 bolts from the cover were about 1/4" too short to fasten the outlet to the generator, so I had to grab some longer ones.


Once the outlet was bolted in place, it was straight forward to connect the wires to the lugs.

I'm happy with the way it turned out. It's compact, waterproof, took maybe 15 minutes to install, and it let's me get full power out of my 802.

Hope this helps somebody!
-Eric

 

[Guyfang]

Looks good. And that's what the plate and hole were meant for to begin with. Facilitate the running of ground cables, power cables, control cables and remote starting cables from the set to other applications. Normally the plate was replaced with another plate, with a hole in it. The hole had a large plastic, (non conducting) fitting, to secure the cable/cables. It also had a sock on it to allow you to seal off the cable hole. Keeps out dust/dirt. You only find this modification on sets that were mounted on trailers or trucks, and mostly only trailers that had two gen sets.

 

[uniquify]

I see what you mean, Guyfang. The picture below shows a pair of 802's on a trailer, both of which are tied into a switch box. The 802 on the right side of the picture has the power cable coming through the cover with the hole in it like you mentioned.

 

[NormB]

Thanks. Got curious about this and poked around a bit on the web. MSCDIRECT.com has them. Bit pricey, but I've seen them listed for twice as much: http://www.newark.com/hubbell-wiring-devices/hbl2710sw/conn-mains-rcpt-3p4w-30a-125-250v/dp/35B585

 

[uniquify]

You could mount that receptacle on an 803, too, but you'd likely want some sort of fuse or circuit breaker.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Or see if they make a 50A equivalent, which I am sure they do.

 

[Waukesha]

Bummer, doesn't look like they make a 50A version for the 803A. Great project!

 

[Chainbreaker]

You could mount that receptacle on an 803, too, but you'd likely want some sort of fuse or circuit breaker.

Depending on your application needs, you could use that access panel to mount a "bulkhead cable access" to run a SOOW cable out to plug in a Spider Box with GFI breakers and multiple outlets. That would provide much more utility and safety, especially if your genset is mobile trailer mounted, should you have a need to distribute power outside the home. Of course a good Spider Box ain't cheap unless you find a deal.

 

[NEIOWA]

Bummer, doesn't look like they make a 50A version for the 803A. Great project!

Use a 60a outlet

 

[LEOK]

802a solutions

I wanted L14-30A receptacle, but I wanted reach, also wanted feed for my bat tender, and wanted the access mouse proof.

So here is the stuff I collected from ebay and lowes free shipping.

25 of 10awg x 4 of 90'C 600v rated wire super flexible $29
$8 for receptacle with good cable clamp
3/4" SO CABLE clamp lowes $4

Also the clamp for bat tender

Pop rivets with 1" stainless fender washer to hold 1/4" hardware wire on.

going make mounting plate and use 4 bolts that secure cable cover I'm missing

 

[Sgt Jiggins]

Depending on your application needs, you could use that access panel to mount a "bulkhead cable access" to run a SOOW cable out to plug in a Spider Box with GFI breakers and multiple outlets. That would provide much more utility and safety, especially if your genset is mobile trailer mounted, should you have a need to distribute power outside the home. Of course a good Spider Box ain't cheap unless you find a deal.

Chainbreaker,

What you describe is what I'd like to do. I'd like a plug on the side of my 802A so that I can plug it into a receptacle on the ATS on my house. When it's not powering my house - at my folks', camping, ... I'd like to have a Spider Box you refer to. Because I won't know what the wiring is at such places. Do you have any recommendations on spider boxes?

Thank you,
SJ

 

[Zed254]

I got one of these used off ebay. https://www.cepnow.com/product/6506gu-2/ The 120 receptacles were all used up, so I had to replace them, all else was good to go. You will need to match your connectors: generator to spider box. I used the CS6369/CS6375 connectors for my generator connectors.

 

[LEOK]

Making a break out box isn't that difficult, just find the outlets you want in it, buy it some push button breakers. Build a box with over hanging lid and some legs. Use split bolts and cover with fusion tape and scotch 33+ tape. Source everything off ebay easily less than $100.00. You can 8awg 4 conductor SO cable.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Chainbreaker,

What you describe is what I'd like to do. I'd like a plug on the side of my 802A so that I can plug it into a receptacle on the ATS on my house. When it's not powering my house - at my folks', camping, ... I'd like to have a Spider Box you refer to. Because I won't know what the wiring is at such places. Do you have any recommendations on spider boxes?

Thank you,
SJ

I like "anything Hubbell" but they are expensive unless you find a deal on a used one or discontinued open box like I did. Haven't used any other spider box brands so I can't vouch for them, maybe someone else here has a recommendation.

To get an idea of what's out there, new & used, I would search eBay using search term "Power Distribution Spider Box". Note...If you just search on "Spider Box" you will get lots of hits for scary boxes with spiders that spring out from them when opened...lol. Also you can find a few spider boxes listed on Northern Tool

Here is what I did on one of my generators. It has proven very useful and also makes it easy to plug in my load tester to it. However the neat little hanging Hubbell spider box I bought was discontinued and I have never seen another one like it.

Another option would be to utilize a Temporary Power Outlet Panel.

 

[NormB]

I like "anything Hubbell" but they are expensive unless you find a deal on a used one or discontinued open box like I did. Haven't used any other spider box brands so I can't vouch for them, maybe someone else here has a recommendation.

To get an idea of what's out there, new & used, I would search eBay using search term "Power Distribution Spider Box". Note...If you just search on "Spider Box" you will get lots of hits for scary boxes with spiders that spring out from them when opened...lol. Also you can find a few spider boxes listed on Northern Tool

Here is what I did on one of my generators. It has proven very useful and also makes it easy to plug in my load tester to it. However the neat little hanging Hubbell spider box I bought was discontinued and I have never seen another one like it.

Another option would be to utilize a Temporary Power Outlet Panel.

I run a fifty foot extension to a spider box inside the house for heaters, window AC, fridge, coffee pot, etc.





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