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8.3 Cummins fuel adjustment

Elijah95

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Can you take a picture of said tamper screw? I didn’t have anything tamper proof on my unmolested 8.3 so I’m curious


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Elijah95

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Screw under my finger in post 13View attachment 812791has since been molested.
So there’s 2 screws top and bottom of that cap that i removed, then under it was simply 2 jam nuts there, I used a large 3/8 drive socket on the big nut held socket with channel locks, then used a 1/4 socket with extension I had inside the 3/8 drive socket and loosened it, then backed the small nut all the way until it almost fell off, then backed the big nut off until it was snug against it.

In theory, there shouldn’t be anything tamper proof within this picture


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Steelreaper80

Active member
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Indianapolis IN
So there’s 2 screws top and bottom of that cap that i removed, then under it was simply 2 jam nuts there, I used a large 3/8 drive socket on the big nut held socket with channel locks, then used a 1/4 socket with extension I had inside the 3/8 drive socket and loosened it, then backed the small nut all the way until it almost fell off, then backed the big nut off until it was snug against it.

In theory, there shouldn’t be anything tamper proof within this picture


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How much power did you add going all the way out and is that too much fuel for a heavily loaded truck?
 

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
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How much power did you add going all the way out and is that too much fuel for a heavily loaded truck?
It doesn’t add a lot dyno wise, but it’s enough to melt a max loaded truck down with an operator who doesn’t know how to drive it, the aftercooler is a JOKE by not only being restrictive but barely removing heat from the air charge and often adding heat in cooler weather to the charge.

If you have a pyrometer, and you actually drive it with some sense, it’ll live indefinitely but let someone else drive it loaded and they might blow it


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