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Use a wafer wheel and cut a slot in the head for a screw driver.
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So there’s 2 screws top and bottom of that cap that i removed, then under it was simply 2 jam nuts there, I used a large 3/8 drive socket on the big nut held socket with channel locks, then used a 1/4 socket with extension I had inside the 3/8 drive socket and loosened it, then backed the small nut all the way until it almost fell off, then backed the big nut off until it was snug against it.Screw under my finger in post 13View attachment 812791has since been molested.
How much power did you add going all the way out and is that too much fuel for a heavily loaded truck?So there’s 2 screws top and bottom of that cap that i removed, then under it was simply 2 jam nuts there, I used a large 3/8 drive socket on the big nut held socket with channel locks, then used a 1/4 socket with extension I had inside the 3/8 drive socket and loosened it, then backed the small nut all the way until it almost fell off, then backed the big nut off until it was snug against it.
In theory, there shouldn’t be anything tamper proof within this picture
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Power is very noticeable and its too much fuel for a heavily loaded truck. I have 4 threads showing on the end of the rod and she will get hot when heavy.How much power did you add going all the way out and is that too much fuel for a heavily loaded truck?
It doesn’t add a lot dyno wise, but it’s enough to melt a max loaded truck down with an operator who doesn’t know how to drive it, the aftercooler is a JOKE by not only being restrictive but barely removing heat from the air charge and often adding heat in cooler weather to the charge.How much power did you add going all the way out and is that too much fuel for a heavily loaded truck?
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