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Mep831 help

Wh6czu

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Location
Kentucky
So I just got this 831 and I'm lost, I have no lights no power to fuel pump only thing it does is makes a loud click when you hit the pre heater that's it. I can jump the starter and get the motor to turn over.
 

kloppk

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Have you downloaded the 9-6115-639-13&P TM?
Lot's of troubleshooting information in there.

You can download TM's from the "TM" button on the top of the S.S. forum webpage.
 

Wh6czu

Member
52
2
8
Location
Kentucky
Have you downloaded the 9-6115-639-13&P TM?
Lot's of troubleshooting information in there.

You can download TM's from the "TM" button on the top of the S.S. forum webpage.
Yes first thing I did, looks like I'm missi ng something, fuel pump on the right side isn't hooked to anything and no harness or empty plug anywhere near it.... there is a empty plug behind motor to the left P7 or P9 I think... and I found 2 wire behind the motor on the bottom that are cut
 

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kloppk

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I noticed a few things..
The recoil start rope and handle are missing. The rope may be inside the recoil starter.
You are missing the AUX fuel pump.

The two wires that should go the the Primary Fuel Pump and two for the the intake heaters normally are routed behind the engine. Might want to look closer back there.

What do the two cut wires go to? Can you read the wire numbers on the sides of them? What are they?
 

Wh6czu

Member
52
2
8
Location
Kentucky
I noticed a few things..
The recoil start rope and handle are missing. The rope may be inside the recoil starter.
You are missing the AUX fuel pump.

The two wires that should go the the Primary Fuel Pump and two for the the intake heaters normally are routed behind the engine. Might want to look closer back there.

What do the two cut wires go to? Can you read the wire numbers on the sides of them? What are they?
Yep your right rope is inside and the handle is down in the front corner,
I dont know what the cut wires go to dont see any numbers on them. I do have 2 wires going to the intake heater they are hooked up, .... I'm working on printing the TM. I have traced voltage from batteries to the start solenoid and that where I had no power.
 

Wh6czu

Member
52
2
8
Location
Kentucky
Ok well looks like I need the main run start switch, anyone know where to get a replacement, and even better how to bypass the switch to get it running, thanks
 

kloppk

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The main switch is a MS27407-2
Found them in stock at Master Electronics for $32.25
Master Switch S1

Other distributors list them too

The switch isn't your average toggle switch. The contacts open and close in a unique way needed to clear the sets Fault logic until the set is started.

MS27407-2.JPG
 
Last edited:

kloppk

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Looking at the TM I *think* doing the following will allow you to get the set started temporarily without an S1 switch.
** Do this at your own risk **
** Warning ** doing this will bypass the Fault Monitor and the set will NOT shut down due to ANY fault such as...
Low/No Oil Pressure, Overload, Over Voltage, Short Circuit, No Fuel, Engine High Temperature

1) Push the Emergency Off (EPO) switch IN
2) Connect all of the following wires together that use to go to S1
7A18, 15A18, 15B18, 5A16, 5B18, 7B18
3) Disconnect the P4 plug from the back of the A2 Fault Monitor
4) Pull the EPO switch OUT
You should now hear the primary fuel pump run as well as a cooling fan in the inverter when you pull the EPO switch out. If you do then go to step 5.
5) Jump the starter as you did earlier

Should it start you'll need to push the EPO switch IN to shut the engine down.
If the set does not shut down you'll have to manually move the throttle actuator arm back to the magnet so it sticks in place.

** Do this at your own risk **
 

Wh6czu

Member
52
2
8
Location
Kentucky
Looking at the TM I *think* doing the following will allow you to get the set started temporarily without an S1 switch.
** Do this at your own risk **
** Warning ** doing this will bypass the Fault Monitor and the set will NOT shut down due to ANY fault such as...
Low/No Oil Pressure, Overload, Over Voltage, Short Circuit, No Fuel, Engine High Temperature

1) Push the Emergency Off (EPO) switch IN
2) Connect all of the following wires together that use to go to S1
7A18, 15A18, 15B18, 5A16, 5B18, 7B18
3) Disconnect the P4 plug from the back of the A2 Fault Monitor
4) Pull the EPO switch OUT
You should now hear the primary fuel pump run as well as a cooling fan in the inverter when you pull the EPO switch out. If you do then go to step 5.
5) Jump the starter as you did earlier

Should it start you'll need to push the EPO switch IN to shut the engine down.
If the set does not shut down you'll have to manually move the throttle actuator arm back to the magnet so it sticks in place.

** Do this at your own risk **
Lol maybe I'll wait for the switch... thanks for the information..
 

Wh6czu

Member
52
2
8
Location
Kentucky
Do you have 24 volts at CB1?
LOL... Yes.... using field level troubleshooting TM 9-6115-639-1=&P... Page 0013-2 ... I made all the way down to E. 5 if voltage is not present , remove and replace START/RUN/STOP switch (WP 0038) had no voltage so I have removed and replaced.... No Change and no voltage
 

Wh6czu

Member
52
2
8
Location
Kentucky
A good photo
LOL... Yes.... using field level troubleshooting TM 9-6115-639-1=&P... Page 0013-2 ... I made all the way down to E. 5 if voltage is not present , remove and replace START/RUN/STOP switch (WP 0038) had no voltage so I have removed and replaced.... No Change and no voltage
O
I noticed a few things..
The recoil start rope and handle are missing. The rope may be inside the recoil starter.
You are missing the AUX fuel pump.

The two wires that should go the the Primary Fuel Pump and two for the the intake heaters normally are routed behind the engine. Might want to look closer back there.

What do the two cut wires go to? Can you read the wire numbers on the sides of them? What are they?
Would happen to have clear photo of what wires go where on the Start Run Stop switch, I just found a wire on number 6 that should be on 5, that's way no power
 

Guyfang

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:ROFLMAO: OK, don't get mad. I am not laughing at you. I have probably repeated 10,000 times here, ALWAYS check that the wires hooked to ANYTHING you are checking, are on right. Its one of the reasons I tell folks to never mark wires when they remove them. If someone else made a mistake, you just repeat it. Take the wires off, look at the wire diagram when you put them back on.Simple, and then you KNOW, its right.

I have had this happen to me many times. By the time you get to banging your head on the gen set, because something is not working, its too late. You are not going to check anything other then if there is enough gasoline on hand to set the whole thing on fire.
 
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