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Yes first thing I did, looks like I'm missi ng something, fuel pump on the right side isn't hooked to anything and no harness or empty plug anywhere near it.... there is a empty plug behind motor to the left P7 or P9 I think... and I found 2 wire behind the motor on the bottom that are cutHave you downloaded the 9-6115-639-13&P TM?
Lot's of troubleshooting information in there.
You can download TM's from the "TM" button on the top of the S.S. forum webpage.
Yep your right rope is inside and the handle is down in the front corner,I noticed a few things..
The recoil start rope and handle are missing. The rope may be inside the recoil starter.
You are missing the AUX fuel pump.
The two wires that should go the the Primary Fuel Pump and two for the the intake heaters normally are routed behind the engine. Might want to look closer back there.
What do the two cut wires go to? Can you read the wire numbers on the sides of them? What are they?
Sweet is there a way to bypass the switch and get it started?The main switch is a MS27407-2
Found them in stock at Master Electronics for $32.25
Master Switch S1
Other distributors list them too
The switch isn't your average toggle switch. The contacts open and close in a unique way needed to clear the sets Fault logic until the set is started.
View attachment 819181
Lol maybe I'll wait for the switch... thanks for the information..Looking at the TM I *think* doing the following will allow you to get the set started temporarily without an S1 switch.
** Do this at your own risk **
** Warning ** doing this will bypass the Fault Monitor and the set will NOT shut down due to ANY fault such as...
Low/No Oil Pressure, Overload, Over Voltage, Short Circuit, No Fuel, Engine High Temperature
1) Push the Emergency Off (EPO) switch IN
2) Connect all of the following wires together that use to go to S1
7A18, 15A18, 15B18, 5A16, 5B18, 7B18
3) Disconnect the P4 plug from the back of the A2 Fault Monitor
4) Pull the EPO switch OUT
You should now hear the primary fuel pump run as well as a cooling fan in the inverter when you pull the EPO switch out. If you do then go to step 5.
5) Jump the starter as you did earlier
Should it start you'll need to push the EPO switch IN to shut the engine down.
If the set does not shut down you'll have to manually move the throttle actuator arm back to the magnet so it sticks in place.
** Do this at your own risk **
Got the switch in and and it didn't change a thing, back to square one.Lol maybe I'll wait for the switch... thanks for the information..
LOL... Yes.... using field level troubleshooting TM 9-6115-639-1=&P... Page 0013-2 ... I made all the way down to E. 5 if voltage is not present , remove and replace START/RUN/STOP switch (WP 003 had no voltage so I have removed and replaced.... No Change and no voltageDo you have 24 volts at CB1?
OLOL... Yes.... using field level troubleshooting TM 9-6115-639-1=&P... Page 0013-2 ... I made all the way down to E. 5 if voltage is not present , remove and replace START/RUN/STOP switch (WP 003 had no voltage so I have removed and replaced.... No Change and no voltage
Would happen to have clear photo of what wires go where on the Start Run Stop switch, I just found a wire on number 6 that should be on 5, that's way no powerI noticed a few things..
The recoil start rope and handle are missing. The rope may be inside the recoil starter.
You are missing the AUX fuel pump.
The two wires that should go the the Primary Fuel Pump and two for the the intake heaters normally are routed behind the engine. Might want to look closer back there.
What do the two cut wires go to? Can you read the wire numbers on the sides of them? What are they?
Its looking like the wires on the Start Run Stop switch are wrongDo you have 24 volts at CB1?
Thanks I'll let you know what happen. Kinda done for the day.Here is a diagram of which wires should be on S1 with their wire numbers and the destination of the wires in ( )
View attachment 820301
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