Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 17,999
- 4,556
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
If you had to make a LOT of soup for a LOT of people, that would be a good way to mix it all up Real Quick!
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
CUCVRUS Repair Projects
- Thread starter cucvrus
- Start date
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,432
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Imagine this. I am now forced to work on CUCV's at work again. All the mechanics that know old vehicles have retired and I am stuck picking up the past due maintenance on the last 2 remaining CUCV's in the snow plow fleet. This truck drove like the front brakes were on all the time and it had the wobble at 15 MPH. I found many issues and the calipers could not return to neutral after the brakes were applied. I removed the front axles and replaced the axle U joints. I also took the 2" Rolok grinder and polished the caliper brackets mounting surfaces. I did the same to the calipers mounting slide areas. I used some never seize and a bit of grease on the surfaces when I reinstalled the calipers. The surfaces were very rusty. 
The cleaning did not take long. 
I burnt thru 3 discs per side and it was smooth sailing after that. I also replaced the caliper mounting hardware since the old stuff was very rusty and pitted. I could have cleaned that but was on a tight schedule. Here is the old and new parts and the part number for replacement hardware. 
Notice that funky spindle nut that was on the axle. I discarded that and bought a new set of Dana 60 spindle nuts and washers. Take Care and Be Safe. Happy Holidays to my Friends and fellow enthusiasts. More repairs later.
The cleaning did not take long. I burnt thru 3 discs per side and it was smooth sailing after that. I also replaced the caliper mounting hardware since the old stuff was very rusty and pitted. I could have cleaned that but was on a tight schedule. Here is the old and new parts and the part number for replacement hardware. Notice that funky spindle nut that was on the axle. I discarded that and bought a new set of Dana 60 spindle nuts and washers. Take Care and Be Safe. Happy Holidays to my Friends and fellow enthusiasts. More repairs later.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,432
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
When I was servicing the front wheel bearings I took notice to what I think was rear axle hub seals were used in the front wheel bearing seals position. To me 
these old seals are the ones that go in the rear drum brake hubs and are oil seals. This what the front grease seals should look like. Oil seals have the double seal and I think that is why they were driven so deep into the hub and why the seal spring was hanging out in both of them. Not my work but I find a lot of hacking and poor maintenance on many vehicles I work on. This what a front hub grease seal should look like in comparison. 
Hollow rear area that can be packed with grease. 
And the NAPA part number. I hope you can read that box. Good Luck and take Care. More repairs later. Rusty truck to work on. It has carried a salt spreader for the past 20 years. Be Safe.
these old seals are the ones that go in the rear drum brake hubs and are oil seals. This what the front grease seals should look like. Oil seals have the double seal and I think that is why they were driven so deep into the hub and why the seal spring was hanging out in both of them. Not my work but I find a lot of hacking and poor maintenance on many vehicles I work on. This what a front hub grease seal should look like in comparison. Hollow rear area that can be packed with grease. And the NAPA part number. I hope you can read that box. Good Luck and take Care. More repairs later. Rusty truck to work on. It has carried a salt spreader for the past 20 years. Be Safe.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,432
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Imagine this. I am now forced to work on CUCV's at work again. That statement was not a complaint. It was statement over the years I was told to stop worrying about the old trucks and focus on the chassis department. I shifted my focus to the new assignment and I still watched from afar and seen the CUCV's degrading and suffering poor maintenance. Now after they are unsafe and un drivable I must step in with lightning speed and get them ready for winter duty. Excuse me it's late November early December. Winter is here. Not officially but white stuff has fallen from the sky last week. Now the fire is lit under my rump. Today I worked 4 hours and made great headway. It is a simple task to maintain the CUCV in stock form. Basically replace worn parts with new parts. No need to redesign the vehicle. It has gotten this far just as it is. It retired from the truck show circuit 20 years ago. From a safety point of view this CUCV was unsafe at any speed. 
These tie rod ends just flopped around. Lack of grease makes parts fail quickly. 
New parts are readily available and a breeze to install. I spent more time centering the steering wheel than I did replacing all the steering linkage. I did notice an extra added option. The 1 bolt steering coupler. Someone had made an attempt to repair the coupler with more bolts after the studs broke or wore off. I don't want that guy working on my weed whacker. Look at that steering coupler.
Anything different about it? Is that dragging loose bolt providing a ground to the steering box? 
Very Nice. I made the call for replacement parts. Of course I stuck with stock same as original parts. 
They are available and look what was holding the steering coupler together. I would say gravity and the fact that it could not fall out 
Onto the next page. I ran out of space for pictures. I would say if you never replaced the steering coupler. Now is the time. You need a 12 point 7/16" / 11mm to remove the lock swedge blot. Good Luck. Next page.
These tie rod ends just flopped around. Lack of grease makes parts fail quickly. New parts are readily available and a breeze to install. I spent more time centering the steering wheel than I did replacing all the steering linkage. I did notice an extra added option. The 1 bolt steering coupler. Someone had made an attempt to repair the coupler with more bolts after the studs broke or wore off. I don't want that guy working on my weed whacker. Look at that steering coupler. Anything different about it? Is that dragging loose bolt providing a ground to the steering box? Very Nice. I made the call for replacement parts. Of course I stuck with stock same as original parts. They are available and look what was holding the steering coupler together. I would say gravity and the fact that it could not fall out Onto the next page. I ran out of space for pictures. I would say if you never replaced the steering coupler. Now is the time. You need a 12 point 7/16" / 11mm to remove the lock swedge blot. Good Luck. Next page.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,432
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Page 2. I also used the original 12 point bolt just to keep it accessible and for the next guy that has to work on it. They provided a 3/8 fine thread bolt with a 9/16" 6 point head. I like the smaller 12 point head.
Easier to tighten and holds the socket tighter. Look at them nice old parts. 
And the new coupler. 
It went right on. It only fits one way. And one side uses 3/8" bolt and the other side uses a 5/16" bolt. Just like original. So lets see. The original one last 34 years so lets say 2054 we can look into replacing this one. I am confident this is the last coupler it will ever need. 
Good Luck and Be Safe. Thank you for looking. I hope it helps you out.
Easier to tighten and holds the socket tighter. Look at them nice old parts. And the new coupler. It went right on. It only fits one way. And one side uses 3/8" bolt and the other side uses a 5/16" bolt. Just like original. So lets see. The original one last 34 years so lets say 2054 we can look into replacing this one. I am confident this is the last coupler it will ever need. Good Luck and Be Safe. Thank you for looking. I hope it helps you out.
Last edited:
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,432
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Page 3. Do you know how it goes when you get someone vehicle brought to you and they say it won't work? They say check it out fix anything you see. OK. that opens up a can of worms. I was just working on the steering and I seen many things that need addressed just to be a reliable snow plow truck. Sway bar bolt missing on the drivers side. 
Very nice. Standard hardware bolt but no the less missing. That rattles I an sure. Several plow frame bolts loose and some missing. And check out the starter. The good old 28 MT is missing the bolt to the support bracket. 
Who checks these things out this closely. Most people don't even check their oil. With all the steering linkage installed I installed a new steering damper. Just a stock one. Nothing with bright hot 
pink rubber bellows. The castle nut on the steering tie rod end would not accept the cotter pin that came with the stabilizer so I clipped 1 half and pushed it thru single strand. It will work. I could have drilled it out but not needed for an off road truck. 
I also used the 2" Rolok to polish and remove the rust from the caliper mounting flanges
and installed a need hardware lock bar and brake pad clips. Greased it and assembled it like a pro.
Take care and do the job right the first time. The truck is not pristine but it is serviceable and still able to serve a purpose. Be Safe and Take Care.
Very nice. Standard hardware bolt but no the less missing. That rattles I an sure. Several plow frame bolts loose and some missing. And check out the starter. The good old 28 MT is missing the bolt to the support bracket. Who checks these things out this closely. Most people don't even check their oil. With all the steering linkage installed I installed a new steering damper. Just a stock one. Nothing with bright hot pink rubber bellows. The castle nut on the steering tie rod end would not accept the cotter pin that came with the stabilizer so I clipped 1 half and pushed it thru single strand. It will work. I could have drilled it out but not needed for an off road truck. I also used the 2" Rolok to polish and remove the rust from the caliper mounting flanges and installed a need hardware lock bar and brake pad clips. Greased it and assembled it like a pro. Take care and do the job right the first time. The truck is not pristine but it is serviceable and still able to serve a purpose. Be Safe and Take Care.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,432
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Page 4. An over all view of the Edmond Fitzgerald M1008. With a load of rock salt 5 tons more than the Edmund Fitzgerald weighed empty.
We don't need no stinkin floor boards. 
I would have never left it get this far gone. But I wasn't responsible for it. Only when it breaks do I hear about it.
I'm not allowed to drive the CUCV
The whistle I can't blow.
It's not my place to say how far the salts supposed to go.
It's not my place to grease the chassis,
Or even raise the plow.
But let the @#$%& CUCV not start and see who's called a sow.
Not the best but I can usually git er dun. Break a few driveshafts from time to time.
They actually have purchased the panels to repair the rockers. i myself for this application would use 3 X 3 box tubing and sheet metal in 10 gauge galvaneal. Good Luck.
We don't need no stinkin floor boards. I would have never left it get this far gone. But I wasn't responsible for it. Only when it breaks do I hear about it.I'm not allowed to drive the CUCV
The whistle I can't blow.
It's not my place to say how far the salts supposed to go.
It's not my place to grease the chassis,
Or even raise the plow.
But let the @#$%& CUCV not start and see who's called a sow.
Not the best but I can usually git er dun. Break a few driveshafts from time to time.
They actually have purchased the panels to repair the rockers. i myself for this application would use 3 X 3 box tubing and sheet metal in 10 gauge galvaneal. Good Luck.
- 1,368
- 950
- 113
- Location
- State College, PA
And here I thought that troubleshooting an issue with my wipers and changing out the wiper motor this morning was a good enough mission.
You could rebuild half a truck in that time!
You could rebuild half a truck in that time!
Last edited:
- 867
- 647
- 93
- Location
- Cooperstown NY
Rick; Your poetry never ceased to amaze me
- 657
- 1,150
- 93
- Location
- Chester County, PA
Interested in this...
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,432
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
These are a few of my favorite CUCV things by CUCVRUS
Brush guards on CUCV's and LED headlamps
Cascading glow plugs and driving off ramps
Green cotton seat covers tied on with string
These are few of my favorite things
Crusty and cracked OEM clusters & dashes
Rusted out rockers and shattered rear glasses
Starters that turn when the keys in my hand
Turbos that make a CUCV run like a fan
Screaming fans belts that make your ears ring
These are a few of my favorite things
CUCV's with lift kits and big ugly tires
People that say the engine won't fire
Rusted out bed sides and sagging leaf springs
These are a few of my favorite things
When the door creaks
When the pump leaks
When I'm feeling sad
I simply remember my favorite things
And then I get really MAD.
Happy Holidays all my Friends
- 867
- 647
- 93
- Location
- Cooperstown NY
That's great. When are we going to see the Grinch again?
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 17,999
- 4,556
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
Love it, cucvrus, how when you go and do something, that you go and do it right.
Unike whoever worked on that rig before you got to it (as you have noted).
- Guessing that the undercoating doesn't really need a primer of any kind, is that the deal?
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,432
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Very Soon. Very Soon my Friend.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,432
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
After tormenting myself trying to get these double nuts back on the axle spindles. 
I ordered some new spindle nuts 
I know a lot of times the small lock pins are worn down on the inner nut from not being installed correctly. These nuts are readily available and if yours are worn and the pin is barely holding the lock washer. I also spent about 2hours getting the sway bar bolt back on the left upper U bolt plate. The right side was seized in the bushing and had to be removed and heated to get the sway bar to move freely again. I greased in all up and got it back together. I also added the starter support bolt to the 28 MT starter. The stud must have backed out and fallen off. I looked up and someone had a 5/16" bolt cross threaded into the block for the support bracket. I felt no need to open up that mess it was tight and aligned. The 1/4" bolt flat and lock washer done the job. I know the bolt into the block had to be cross threaded because the block has an M8 metric hole from attaching the support bracket. I checked all the fluids and tightened all the plow frame bolts to the frame and replaced ones that were damaged and looked bad. After I started it I drove it down to an alternator shop and they are going to replace the voltage regulators to self exciting regulators so I don't have to hassle with the idiot lights 3 - 4 times every plowing season. The truck is not worth restoring and it drove fine at 60 MPH. The volt meter was right on the beginning of the green line. I assume Gen 2 is not charging again. No lights needed if the gauge shows the charge rate. Take Care and Be Safe.
I ordered some new spindle nuts I know a lot of times the small lock pins are worn down on the inner nut from not being installed correctly. These nuts are readily available and if yours are worn and the pin is barely holding the lock washer. I also spent about 2hours getting the sway bar bolt back on the left upper U bolt plate. The right side was seized in the bushing and had to be removed and heated to get the sway bar to move freely again. I greased in all up and got it back together. I also added the starter support bolt to the 28 MT starter. The stud must have backed out and fallen off. I looked up and someone had a 5/16" bolt cross threaded into the block for the support bracket. I felt no need to open up that mess it was tight and aligned. The 1/4" bolt flat and lock washer done the job. I know the bolt into the block had to be cross threaded because the block has an M8 metric hole from attaching the support bracket. I checked all the fluids and tightened all the plow frame bolts to the frame and replaced ones that were damaged and looked bad. After I started it I drove it down to an alternator shop and they are going to replace the voltage regulators to self exciting regulators so I don't have to hassle with the idiot lights 3 - 4 times every plowing season. The truck is not worth restoring and it drove fine at 60 MPH. The volt meter was right on the beginning of the green line. I assume Gen 2 is not charging again. No lights needed if the gauge shows the charge rate. Take Care and Be Safe.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,432
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,432
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
General Motors Unveils New GM Genuine Parts And ACDelco Parts Packaging
The parts have already begun shipping to dealers and certified service centers.
gmauthority.com
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,432
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
This weekend I got myself involved in a job that I usually don't get involved it. The VW was near a house that burnt down and was not insured. It was the daily driver of the owner and I was asked if I could do the repairs. I thought well it looks easy enough. The entire front end was melted and the wiring on the right side had damage.
I went to the YOUPULLIT and sourced black parts and a section of wiring harness. I surgically cut and spliced the wiring harness I had everything working but the wipers and washers. I worked on it 4 hours and decided enough for 1 day. I checked all the fuses and they were good. It had 2 wires running to the washer pump both were hot Positive current. I thought OK a relay turns one to ground and they work. I manually grounded the pump and it worked. The wiper would only go if the front axles were turning. The owner said that was the way it is. I said no way. What about pouring rain and you come to an intersection and stop. he said they stop. I called BS. I kept looking. I found a few more burnt wires. It has heated washer nozzles in the hood. WOW. Fancy. The taped they wrap the harness with is like Kevlar. I gave up and GOOGLE was my friend. The key was if the hood is open the wipers and washers don't work. WHAT. I was out there at dark 0500 with a flash light and sure enough wires in the hood latch. I closed the hood turned the key and the wipers ran with the car off and key on. The washer worked but seemed to spray fluid everywhere but on the windshield. Day light came and I discovered that they use 8MM hard corrugated plastic tubing wrapped in the harness to run the fluid. Well the harness/tubing had gotten hot enough to collapse and harden the line. It had leaks the length of it inside the Kevlar wrapped harness. I pulled a few washer hoses and odds and end small washer hose connections every time I am at the YOUPULLIT and I was able to get the system working. I am missing one part and am not happy with the used headlamps. Ebay was consulted and an after market set were ordered. No time for playing around. I have a CUCV to work on. Heated wiper washer nozzles and wipers that are connected to the hood latch. WOW. Live and learn. Most garages would have refused this work or charged a fortune and hacked it up. I am happy and will get it back together as soon as I get 1 piece that goes behind the bumper and under the headlamp. I finished with this task and went onto CUCV work. 
That chair is where I spent my last 2 days. Some times I feel like I've been tied to the whipping post. Live and Learn. I will never forget. It must be a German thing I will never understand. Humor. My CUCV I can throw the hood on the scrap pile and drive forever with everything operational.
I went to the YOUPULLIT and sourced black parts and a section of wiring harness. I surgically cut and spliced the wiring harness I had everything working but the wipers and washers. I worked on it 4 hours and decided enough for 1 day. I checked all the fuses and they were good. It had 2 wires running to the washer pump both were hot Positive current. I thought OK a relay turns one to ground and they work. I manually grounded the pump and it worked. The wiper would only go if the front axles were turning. The owner said that was the way it is. I said no way. What about pouring rain and you come to an intersection and stop. he said they stop. I called BS. I kept looking. I found a few more burnt wires. It has heated washer nozzles in the hood. WOW. Fancy. The taped they wrap the harness with is like Kevlar. I gave up and GOOGLE was my friend. The key was if the hood is open the wipers and washers don't work. WHAT. I was out there at dark 0500 with a flash light and sure enough wires in the hood latch. I closed the hood turned the key and the wipers ran with the car off and key on. The washer worked but seemed to spray fluid everywhere but on the windshield. Day light came and I discovered that they use 8MM hard corrugated plastic tubing wrapped in the harness to run the fluid. Well the harness/tubing had gotten hot enough to collapse and harden the line. It had leaks the length of it inside the Kevlar wrapped harness. I pulled a few washer hoses and odds and end small washer hose connections every time I am at the YOUPULLIT and I was able to get the system working. I am missing one part and am not happy with the used headlamps. Ebay was consulted and an after market set were ordered. No time for playing around. I have a CUCV to work on. Heated wiper washer nozzles and wipers that are connected to the hood latch. WOW. Live and learn. Most garages would have refused this work or charged a fortune and hacked it up. I am happy and will get it back together as soon as I get 1 piece that goes behind the bumper and under the headlamp. I finished with this task and went onto CUCV work. That chair is where I spent my last 2 days. Some times I feel like I've been tied to the whipping post. Live and Learn. I will never forget. It must be a German thing I will never understand. Humor. My CUCV I can throw the hood on the scrap pile and drive forever with everything operational.
Last edited:
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 17,999
- 4,556
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
Excellent saga!
You are Fearless, cucvrus. You go where no man dared to go before.
Excellent.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,432
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
I 2was just called the Edmond Fitzgerald is ready for pick up. This has the alternators with self exciting voltage regulators so I no longer have to fuss with the Gen 1 & Gen 2 idiot lights every other year. I will see where the voltmeter shows charge and that will be good enough for me. Self exciting voltage regulators. I am excited about this. No more dim lights and the salt spreader bogged down because the idiot light won't work. I guess time will tell. But it sounds logical.