m1009 u-joints

[Volvo740turbo]

The spicer number cross references to the 534g that I have installed.....i guess the yoke is worn out then...

 

[Bighorn]

If the straps ever got loose and allowed the u-joint caps to rock it will wallow out the saddles.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p10...30_spline_3r_series_for_chevy_and_gm_8.5.html

Part#: 9980884

Denny's driveshafts has the yoke you need.
About 100 bucks.
Get a pinion seal while your at it.
Be careful not to over torque the pinion nut when you reinstall the new yoke.
Just get her tight then one quick blip with the impact and it is good enough.

 

[Hennek]

I like this site and all its useful information. I wanted to add something from 2021. I got my m1009 a few month ago and have gotten around to doing the rear u joints. I experienced a clunk when shifting from drive to reverse and discovered my rear u joint at the rear diff was totally shot. I can confirm that it is indeed part 534, in my case I went with Moog 534G from my local parts store. This u joint fit both yokes on the rear driveline. It fit at the rear diff and the rear transfer case. I have the same 6.2 as all CUCV's with the automatic TH400. These are the only joints I've replaced so far.

If anyone is having issues finding the right joints here's some research I've done that will will hopefully save time. The cap diameter of all 4 caps from both rear u joints is 1.125 inches. The distance from outside cap to outside cap is 3.667 inches on both cross measurements.

MOOG 534G Fits these exact measurements.

If your yokes are worn and the tolerance is larger than 1.125 inches you can try MOOG 231. It has the same measurements across from cap to cap at 3.667 inches but the caps are slightly larger at 1.18 inches in diameter on all 4. If all 4 yoke holes aren't worn, which isn't a very likely case, you can try MOOG 459 I think it was. Again, it has the same measurements across from cap to cap at 3.667 inches and one set of caps is 1.125 inches in diameter and the other set of caps is larger at 1.18 inches in diameter. These last two MOOG numbers aren't likely to fit the driveline but im just giving measurements in case someone needs something a little bigger. The 535G fit both ends of my rear driveline no problem.

Last bit of info I want to pass along... I haven't ever done a set of factory GM u joints and had no idea that they used that injection molded nylon or whatever to lock in the caps. After a few blows with a hammer and no luck, I took to the web and realized you had to melt those $%@/×÷ out of there. I'm sure alot of people know to that but I didn't and it was a learning curve. After lighting up the torch and melting that crap away, the u joints drove out and back in without issue.

Thanks for this forum and good luck with your rigs.

 

[cucvrus]

I have changed many U joints. A hammer and socket is a last resort. I should say never to seldom. A C-clamp U joint/ball joint press works best and is much easier on the U joint. I never melted the nylon out either. It was that old and brittle it disintegrates when I press the joint out.
Also the rear U joint on the M1009 has no out shoulders or stops to keep the U joint centered. The C clips must be applied to the caps that get seated in the yoke. This keeps the rear U joint properly seated and centered in the Yoke. With out these clips the joint can move from side to side and eventually wear out the yoke, vibrate or worst case come off at high speed. I seen many M1009's with out the clips installed. I hope that helps. I always recommend changing U joints in pairs. If one goes bad who knows the condition of the other one. I even change U joints if the transmission yoke is flopping around loosely when I am handing the drive shaft. That is not supposed to be that loose. Good Luck and Take Care.

 

[gringeltaube]

If your yokes are worn and the tolerance is larger than 1.125 inches you can try MOOG 231. It has the same measurements across from cap to cap at 3.667 inches but the caps are slightly larger at 1.18 inches in diameter on all 4. If all 4 yoke holes aren't worn, which isn't a very likely case, you can try MOOG 459 I think it was. Again, it has the same measurements across from cap to cap at 3.667 inches and one set of caps is 1.125 inches in diameter and the other set of caps is larger at 1.18 inches in diameter. These last two MOOG numbers aren't likely to fit the driveline but im just giving measurements in case someone needs something a little bigger.

You might want to review that info because it is not correct.

And BTW, if a yoke is worn - or in this case the saddles wallowed-out - it needs to be replaced! A U-joint with Ø 1.188" bearings will never fit into a yoke made for Ø 1.125" bearings, no matter how badly worn-out it was. For what it matters, the difference in diameter is huge, not just "slightly larger"...

 

[Hennek]

You might want to review that info because it is not correct.

And BTW, if a yoke is worn - or in this case the saddles wallowed-out - it needs to be replaced! A U-joint with Ø 1.188" bearings will never fit into a yoke made for Ø 1.125" bearings, no matter how badly worn-out it was. For what it matters, the difference in diameter is huge, not just "slightly larger"...

I appreciate the feedback. I wasn't trying to mislead anybody. I was just throwing out some measurements from all the u joints I bought. I was trying to be careful with my wording and wasn't trying to make improper recommendations. I was careful to say at the end of that statement that those last 2 part numbers I had talked about were not likely to fit the driveline. If any of that information does not need to be there I will gladly take it down or it can be taken down. I agree with you that if the yoke is that worn that it all would need to be replaced. Thanks again for the feedback and I apologize for the wrong information.

 

[Hennek]

I have changed many U joints. A hammer and socket is a last resort. I should say never to seldom. A C-clamp U joint/ball joint press works best and is much easier on the U joint. I never melted the nylon out either. It was that old and brittle it disintegrates when I press the joint out.
Also the rear U joint on the M1009 has no out shoulders or stops to keep the U joint centered. The C clips must be applied to the caps that get seated in the yoke. This keeps the rear U joint properly seated and centered in the Yoke. View attachment 833335 With out these clips the joint can move from side to side and eventually wear out the yoke, vibrate or worst case come off at high speed. I seen many M1009's with out the clips installed. I hope that helps. I always recommend changing U joints in pairs. If one goes bad who knows the condition of the other one. I even change U joints if the transmission yoke is flopping around loosely when I am handing the drive shaft. That is not supposed to be that loose. Good Luck and Take Care.

Thank you for the information. I used the ball joint/u joint press for the install and was much happier with that process. I also noticed there wasn't anything on the straps to keep the u joint from sliding around in the yoke so I was sure to install the c clips. I did the pair of the u joints on the rear driveline. Would it be advised to do the front driveline and axle joints now too? Thank you

 

[cucvrus]

I tend to over maintain things. So if they are the original front outer axle U joints I would replace them. That will bring up another long neglected seal. The inner axle seals. After you drag the axles out the filth filled axle housing tube the inner seal will not be happy. If it isn't leaking now it will be after pushing the axle back in thru all that filth. I do it but I clean the axle housing out really well with a broom handle and a piece of tin nailed to the end in a half moon shape. Carefully. Don't go ramming that stick into the seal. Clean it carefully. Good Luck. I never changed an inner axle seal. I do it the hard way but the only way I can do it. I remove the front axle and send it out and have it completely gone over. Just the bare housing with and center carrier, the axles removed and the ball joints and knuckles removed. New ball joints are needed if they are OEM. The work will stop on older vehicles once you do everything right the first time. That has been my experience. Good Luck.