M35A3C winch trouble shooting

[stanzuray]

If you're using it to pull out other's pick-ups, the M35A3 would probably be fine for that. The truck alone weighs nearly two times more than the typical pick-up, so I'd think low-gear rescues like that shouldn't be a problem.

The problems I see associated with deuces and this kind of work is when people decide it's a good idea to use it to do work that's better done with a 5-ton, like carrying big water tanks for brush fire fighting, or pulling loaded commercial trucks out of the ditch. This is even moreso important with the A3 because of its deratings. That's why I like the idea of 5-tons so much; they will do pretty much everything you ask it to and still be within data plate capacities.

Regardless of the truck, however, use the truck within spec and properly maintain it and it will last awhile and remain safe to operate.

Speaking of the 5-ton, do you know the model of the one you described as inoperable? There's probably a thread somewhere on this forum where someone had the same problem and solved it.

For what it'll be used for a large track vehicle would be better as the drifting on the road gets very deep. I figure 6 chained up drive tires will get through anything a truck can get struck in as long as the drifting is not to active. Also we can't use the road till the Yukon river gets thick enough to support whatever we want to put on it. This 2 1/2 ton will be lighter that the 5 ton so that will be a plus at getting across the river earlier. Alot of it is using what we have also. As to the 5 ton I used to use, a diesel mechanic did give me some help troubleshooting it and said he'd bet money it was abused and compression was gone the way it would not fire at all even with start fluid and new batteries turning it over real fast but any hints on that would be appreciated. I was given some info about the way it was raced around by multiple drivers. I was given control over this deuce so that will never happen now.

 

[stanzuray]

I have an M35A3 W/W that I have owned going on 11 years now that I got directly from GL. I also owned an M35A2 W/W at the same time. I love my M35A3. It has turned out to be the most dependable MV I've ever owned, much more dependable than my A2. Once I replaced the gaskets on the wheel valve stems, the wheels hold air for ~6 months or more. I also switched to Dexron 3 in the original 1545 transmission, which made it shift much smoother. I drive my A3 several times per week and use the winch multiple times per month, mostly pulling timber in very mountainous terrain. It is almost a daily driver - I drove it ~70 miles this morning, unfortunately in the pouring rain. I also often pull an XM1061E1 trailer with the A3, which is a very heavy trailer designed to be pulled by a 5 Ton and not by a deuce. Once I started using the winch on the A3, I never went back to the winch on the A2. The hydraulic winch on the A3 is much easier to use than the PTO winch on the A2. Also, consider the heater. The cab heater in the A3 is substantially superior to the heater in the A2. The electric wipers are also much superior than the pneumatic wipers in the A2. And don't forget the tie-downs in the A3 bed - very useful. Although the CTIS on my A3 works perfectly, I manually air up my tires to 60 PSI, the max for the Michelin wheels. The truck drives better, is more economical and the tires wear better with the increased pressure. I have never had to add oil to the engine, it flat never uses any oil. The A3 engine is also the easiest starting diesel engine I've ever owned, period. The engine doesn't turn over more than 1 revolution before starting as long as the temperature isn't extremely cold. If the temp is down in the teens or below zero, one shot of ether and it starts right up. I finally sold my M35A2 W/W. Although it was a very good truck, I found myself always going for the A3.

Thanks for the tips on tranny fluid etc. Will be putting heaters all over it for winter use as we get 30 to 50 below up here. On my CUCV which I can start at 25 below just with glow plugs if I have to, I got block, tranny and engine pan pads, and 24 volt battery trickle for colder times. Be interesting to see what this deuce will start in but do have the possibility of a spot in the city garage to keep it warm. Do have a very slow leak on one tire and think about just getting rid of the air system and making them like regular tires. The CTIS airing system does not even turn on anyway so need to figure that out. Tires I'm an expert on and was changing huge loader tires etc. back in Boston at age 16 at the main Boston incinerator so I can do that fine.

 

[HDN]

Do have a very slow leak on one tire and think about just getting rid of the air system and making them like regular tires. The CTIS airing system does not even turn on anyway so need to figure that out. Tires I'm an expert on and was changing huge loader tires etc. back in Boston at age 16 at the main Boston incinerator so I can do that fine.

It's not hard remove the CTIS components from the wheels. What you'll need for each wheel is a 3/8"x1/8" bushing/reducer and a 3/8" cap to cover the opening at the end of the hollow wheel stud. You can re-use the 1/8" Schrader valve from the CTIS valve for the wheel. Be aware that if you have gear oil coming out of the hollow stud, that means you have blown axle seals which will have to be addressed at some point.