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M936 Wrecker Hydraulic Hoist Motor

charlesmann

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Temple, Tx
I just got all the seals and o rings in to rebuild both my winch motors today. Will start messing with one tomorrow. Those motors are a brute to move, just takes some grunting and straining to get them separated from the gearbox.
if anyone needs the drawing with part numbers, let me know.
 

KN6KXR

Well-known member
238
561
93
Location
Felton, CA
I just got all the seals and o rings in to rebuild both my winch motors today. Will start messing with one tomorrow. Those motors are a brute to move, just takes some grunting and straining to get them separated from the gearbox.
if anyone needs the drawing with part numbers, let me know.
Yes. All the TM's have is a single part for the whole motor. I'm starting a whole file for all the stuff needed for this truck and would love to have it handy. Better yet I would love to see it with the rest of the M939 TM's so everybody can get to it.
 

gstirling

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knoxville tn
For you experienced hydraulic guys, what's the deal with this drain? seems like its leak rate is so low that a drain line will never really "flow" oil back to the tank???? mine drips but so slowly its just a wet spot on the paint (so i would like to stop it, guess it will increase with time??). and aren't these drain plugs on the other motors like the rotator motor? is this drain fixing a symptom (catching the leak) or fixing "the" problem (fluid pressure in the pump)?
 

simp5782

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Mason, TN
For you experienced hydraulic guys, what's the deal with this drain? seems like its leak rate is so low that a drain line will never really "flow" oil back to the tank???? mine drips but so slowly its just a wet spot on the paint (so i would like to stop it, guess it will increase with time??). and aren't these drain plugs on the other motors like the rotator motor? is this drain fixing a symptom (catching the leak) or fixing "the" problem (fluid pressure in the pump)?
I tried to fix mine. A few times. I solved it with a small piece of metal and a welder. Cut the nub off. Ground down and weld it all around
 

KN6KXR

Well-known member
238
561
93
Location
Felton, CA
For you experienced hydraulic guys, what's the deal with this drain? seems like its leak rate is so low that a drain line will never really "flow" oil back to the tank???? mine drips but so slowly its just a wet spot on the paint (so i would like to stop it, guess it will increase with time??). and aren't these drain plugs on the other motors like the rotator motor? is this drain fixing a symptom (catching the leak) or fixing "the" problem (fluid pressure in the pump)?
It's the design. All seals leak. Even mechanical fluid seals on water pumps and whatnot use the fluid as a lubricant and the tiny amout that gets by evaporates. Hydraulic rams, motorcycle forks, power steering rams, screw pumps, etc, etc... They all leak. If they didn't they wouldn't lubricate the shaft. Most applications it's pretty negligible. Some applications need drains. Without a parts fiche in hand I'm going to guess that this motor has an annular area between the seals (aka a gland) that is meant to be drained. Fairly high pressure, probably a low lip seal area. Pressure gets trapped in there and eventually makes it past the second seal and in to the first gear reduction area. In bad cases it appears it gets to the final gear reduction, fills it all up, then spurts out the vent. I suspect the weep hole is blocked by the gasket on those machines. I think I got lucky with mine it was open and only filled the first gear reduction before alerting me by dripping out. The vent line was barely wet after a good exercise. It's not a return it's just a drain. I think you're right about checking the other motors out for drains at the seal glands that may be blocked off. It appears at some point they changed drive motors and this never got addressed. Not suprised the fellows were instructed just to change them out. Should have seen the mountain we had to climb to get EMD injectors redesigned because they insisted on running JP8 in them all the time and they kept burning up. In the military the nail that pops up gets hammered down so.... not suprised at all.
 

gstirling

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
143
17
18
Location
knoxville tn
It's the design. All seals leak. Even mechanical fluid seals on water pumps and whatnot use the fluid as a lubricant and the tiny amout that gets by evaporates. Hydraulic rams, motorcycle forks, power steering rams, screw pumps, etc, etc... They all leak. If they didn't they wouldn't lubricate the shaft. Most applications it's pretty negligible. Some applications need drains. Without a parts fiche in hand I'm going to guess that this motor has an annular area between the seals (aka a gland) that is meant to be drained. Fairly high pressure, probably a low lip seal area. Pressure gets trapped in there and eventually makes it past the second seal and in to the first gear reduction area. In bad cases it appears it gets to the final gear reduction, fills it all up, then spurts out the vent. I suspect the weep hole is blocked by the gasket on those machines. I think I got lucky with mine it was open and only filled the first gear reduction before alerting me by dripping out. The vent line was barely wet after a good exercise. It's not a return it's just a drain. I think you're right about checking the other motors out for drains at the seal glands that may be blocked off. It appears at some point they changed drive motors and this never got addressed. Not suprised the fellows were instructed just to change them out. Should have seen the mountain we had to climb to get EMD injectors redesigned because they insisted on running JP8 in them all the time and they kept burning up. In the military the nail that pops up gets hammered down so.... not suprised at all.
thanks for the input, if the "normal" weeping into the annular area is extremely small for healthy motor, wonder if a simple 1oz collection cup would work instead of plumbing a return from the various motors back to the tank and just be emptied checked every few months? or is "normal" weeping far greater?
 

KN6KXR

Well-known member
238
561
93
Location
Felton, CA
thanks for the input, if the "normal" weeping into the annular area is extremely small for healthy motor, wonder if a simple 1oz collection cup would work instead of plumbing a return from the various motors back to the tank and just be emptied checked every few months? or is "normal" weeping far greater?
That's complicated. Depending on the load it may weep a little and may weep out a lot. Right? Personally I want the deck to stay clean because I rarely have a helper and don't want to slip on the deck running across it. In my experiment I ran about 6 feet of 1/4" tube back to the tank fill hole and didn't do any lifting just running it. I didn't monitor it but the line was wet when I checked. That's more than a small cup I think. Also it's one less thing to worry about. I still haven't drilled the return fitting for the proper final plumbing the tube is stuck in the fill with a rag wrapped around it. It'll run fine that way until I get to it. What I do know is it immediately stopped making a mess. I suppose one could use a bucket but where would you put it? The deck is pretty lean on usable space. YMMV but I think this is a modification worth the time.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,125
9,383
113
Location
Mason, TN
That's complicated. Depending on the load it may weep a little and may weep out a lot. Right? Personally I want the deck to stay clean because I rarely have a helper and don't want to slip on the deck running across it. In my experiment I ran about 6 feet of 1/4" tube back to the tank fill hole and didn't do any lifting just running it. I didn't monitor it but the line was wet when I checked. That's more than a small cup I think. Also it's one less thing to worry about. I still haven't drilled the return fitting for the proper final plumbing the tube is stuck in the fill with a rag wrapped around it. It'll run fine that way until I get to it. What I do know is it immediately stopped making a mess. I suppose one could use a bucket but where would you put it? The deck is pretty lean on usable space. YMMV but I think this is a modification worth the time.
Add the folding cat walk like @Mullaney TACOM prototype wrecker has

 

KN6KXR

Well-known member
238
561
93
Location
Felton, CA
Add the folding cat walk like @Mullaney TACOM prototype wrecker has

THAT truck is totally different! Catwalk is cool but I think I'm leaving mine stock. It's historical after all.....

Note the completely different hoist motor. Would it lift the same weight without gear reduction? Also note the drain line from the seal area on the top.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,125
9,383
113
Location
Mason, TN
THAT truck is totally different! Catwalk is cool but I think I'm leaving mine stock. It's historical after all.....

Note the completely different hoist motor. Would it lift the same weight without gear reduction? Also note the drain line from the seal area on the top.
It's a prototype mule that the people at Aberdeen used. It'll lift just as much as the standard pump. IMO 816s are much stronger than 936s. They are same wrecker setup but can run at idle for operation which allows for more slow movements with the crane.

My 816 will pickup well over 25k at idle without boom supports
 

gstirling

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
143
17
18
Location
knoxville tn
Add the folding cat walk like @Mullaney TACOM prototype wrecker has

That's complicated. Depending on the load it may weep a little and may weep out a lot. Right? Personally I want the deck to stay clean because I rarely have a helper and don't want to slip on the deck running across it. In my experiment I ran about 6 feet of 1/4" tube back to the tank fill hole and didn't do any lifting just running it. I didn't monitor it but the line was wet when I checked. That's more than a small cup I think. Also it's one less thing to worry about. I still haven't drilled the return fitting for the proper final plumbing the tube is stuck in the fill with a rag wrapped around it. It'll run fine that way until I get to it. What I do know is it immediately stopped making a mess. I suppose one could use a bucket but where would you put it? The deck is pretty lean on usable space. YMMV but I think this is a modification worth the time.
I agree, i hate my deck not being as clean and slip free as possible, my cable/hook drive motor weeps almost nothing (well for now), but my rotator motor is past weeping and is making a mess. not sure if it needs some true TLC or if a return line will catch the weepage and i'm good to go. thanks for the input, i'm always up for why one solution works or might be better than another. guess i'll add this mod to the list .... right infront of installing the remote control for the rear winch, i have the controls, just haven't got around to the install.
 

charlesmann

Well-known member
700
713
93
Location
Temple, Tx
It appears at some point they changed drive motors and this never got addressed. Not suprised the fellows were instructed just to change them out. Should have seen the mountain we had to climb to get EMD injectors redesigned because they insisted on running JP8 in them all the time and they kept burning up. In the military the nail that pops up gets hammered down so.... not suprised at all.
Not sure how many different motors are there, but here are two different ones i have.
DAC5CFE5-F8FC-4846-837C-52BC5D939535.jpeg
D1A043C0-0314-4434-90E9-7059C9DA7FA3.jpeg

7B536BD3-0584-4A63-A9E0-3E8300CDE06D.jpeg
34C83715-82AB-4A68-A1D2-FA852E438FF0.jpeg

The top 2 pics are of the motor i just replaced both seals for output shaft and oring on the seal retainer housing.

It can be seen that the output shaft support bearings between the two motors are in different locations and possibly different style/size.

I forgot to grab pics of the motor internals on the motor sitting on pallet. I just installed it and will test it once i get correct tools for the winch gearbox drain/fill plugs and get the gb serviced.
 

charlesmann

Well-known member
700
713
93
Location
Temple, Tx
Evidently i got the assembly of the motor right. The output shaft could be turn easily by hand before disassembly, but needed a socket on the square drive portion of the shaft to line the keyways up. I ran the motor both directions from, paying all the way out and back in 10x with no leakage.
 

KN6KXR

Well-known member
238
561
93
Location
Felton, CA
Hey thanks for posting those drawings! I'm not a hydraulic design guy so I have no idea why one seal area is vented and the other isn't but it's good to see confirmation and instruction we are doing the right thing by running a vent/drain per instructions. Does the other motor you have need a drain as well?

I have a bit of "getting to know" my 936A2 on my list right now. Some weeps and leaks underneath, table doesn't like to unlock (even at 1700 rpm) and is jerky when it does, need to see if the rotator motor is the same and probably run a drain line for that, etc, etc... It's super to have resources like you folks here!
 

charlesmann

Well-known member
700
713
93
Location
Temple, Tx
@KN6KXR
The other motor doesnt have a drain port, and i guess i need to pull the allen head pipe plug and drill a small hole in it to relieve any potential pressure build up and leak through on the inner shaft seal. When i pulled the plug on disassembly, a little fluid came out.

The motor that came off my operational wrecker doesnt have a case drain plug, so when i tear into the motor, i will take pictures this time and hope the seals are the same. Im not sure if the bottom two pics i posted is of an old motor or an updated/newer style motor, but it doesnt match the pdf docs i posted and my motor doesnt have a data tag to track down the parts diagram docs, if they arent the same internals.
 

KN6KXR

Well-known member
238
561
93
Location
Felton, CA
@KN6KXR
The other motor doesnt have a drain port, and i guess i need to pull the allen head pipe plug and drill a small hole in it to relieve any potential pressure build up and leak through on the inner shaft seal. When i pulled the plug on disassembly, a little fluid came out.

The motor that came off my operational wrecker doesnt have a case drain plug, so when i tear into the motor, i will take pictures this time and hope the seals are the same. Im not sure if the bottom two pics i posted is of an old motor or an updated/newer style motor, but it doesnt match the pdf docs i posted and my motor doesnt have a data tag to track down the parts diagram docs, if they arent the same internals.
OK so the top motor I have on the hoist and the bottom motor is on my rotator table. The TM points to both being the same part number which is a Parker 3169310251 as seen in the parts diagram posted. It's also known by it's NSN and Parker number PH PGM075C842**. I've found this motor for as low as $887.50 brand new. There's also another parts diagram for this located here: https://www.wilson-company.com/imag...ps/Parker PGP 020 Series Pumps and Motors.pdf

The bottom motor (in your pictures) is for my rotator table and it does have a tag but scraping the paint off has made it hard to read. It has no drain port either. It's easily identifiable by the casting bosses at the end rather than the center of the motor body. I just have to assume this motor was phased out. The following is the best I can make out from the data tag:
Manufacturer: Hydreco
Customer Part Number: 10876150
Serial number: Illegible
Model Number: either CAT230 or CA1230

Internet searches and Hydreco web site searches have proved beyond my ability I'm striking out. I'm currently having rotator table issues under load (rotates fine with no load will not with max load) and my rotator pump is weeping. So I think I need to fix the pump. I'm on the fence about updating the pump with a new one or rebuilding the old one. I have a feeling it may be a few hundred to rebuild the outdated one and though I don't like the $900 price tag maybe a new one that matches the hoist could be the best long term solution. Not in a rush going to get more data and give it a think.

Hope that helps maybe you can get further on the motor data than I did.
 
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