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Mep 802 A fuel gauge

JimmyLet58

New member
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10
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Location
NC
My fuel gauge started flickering back and forth all over the place. Now later on ust pegged far as it will go past full and staying there. Fuel gauge gone bad? Thanks for any info on what to do.
 

JimmyLet58

New member
15
10
3
Location
NC
You can check the sender, but in my experience when its pegged far right its a dead gauge. If you are looking for a replacement, I have them listed in the classified section.
You can check the sender, but in my experience when its pegged far right its a dead gauge. If you are looking for a replacement, I have them listed in the classified section.
Thanks for the info. Where is the classified section you have the qauge listed?
 

Ray70

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Definitely test your sending unit. A dead spot in the sender will also peg the gage all the way up. The dead spots can also be intermittent, so check closely.
Make sure you disconnect the sense wire from that gage before testing it otherwise you will get an incorrect reading.
I would just replace it with a marine sending unit for $30.
There are plenty of articles on her about the WEMA SS units as well as others.
For an 802 I believe you need a 5.5" sender and you want the standard SAE mounting hole pattern, IF you end up having a bad sender.
 

JimmyLet58

New member
15
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Location
NC
https://armysurpluswarehouse.com/military-issue-fuel-gauge/ might work for you. I used one on my 802. It's not OEM black, but it is a Teleflex gauge and good quality. UPS from Idaho can be expensive, though. I bought a few spares and included them in a larger order to neutralize shipping cost.
Zed254
I got the gage I am not sure I got it hooked up right. Do you have a picture of how you have yours wired. When I put power to mine the needle pegs to the left pasts empty!
Thanks Jimmy
 

jmenende

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Puerto Rico
I would sand and clean with some contact cleaner all the terminals on the gauge. Also, take the back cover off and clean the contacts off the sender. While you at it, stick your hand inside the fuel take and make sure both float are free and move up and down. This last part may be difficult for some with giant hands and you may end up pulling the sender.
 

Ray70

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Location
West greenwich/RI
Jimmy, where are you at with this machine as of now? Have you gotten the gage wires figured out, or do you still need help?
Also, have you tested the sending unit in the tank? I can almost guarantee your sending unit is bad. I've seen it a dozen times.
It's easy to test, just disconnect the wire on the 3/8" nut on the sending unit and use and ohm meter to check resistance from the stud on the sending unit to ground. Open circuit means sender is bad. Maybe it can be cleaned, but experience has told me to just replace with the marine stainless steel unit, it will save you 100 headaches. There is another thread started just recently regarding this same issue that you may have seen...
 

JimmyLet58

New member
15
10
3
Location
NC
Jimmy, where are you at with this machine as of now? Have you gotten the gage wires figured out, or do you still need help?
Also, have you tested the sending unit in the tank? I can almost guarantee your sending unit is bad. I've seen it a dozen times.
It's easy to test, just disconnect the wire on the 3/8" nut on the sending unit and use and ohm meter to check resistance from the stud on the sending unit to ground. Open circuit means sender is bad. Maybe it can be cleaned, but experience has told me to just replace with the marine stainless steel unit, it will save you 100 headaches. There is another thread started just recently regarding this same issue that you may have seen...
Ray thanks for all your itime and Information. I haven't had time to check everything out yet. Just getting ready to order the marine stainless unit. So I need the 5.5 for the 802 correct?
 

Zed254

Well-known member
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Location
S. Hampton Roads, VA
Zed254
I got the gage I am not sure I got it hooked up right. Do you have a picture of how you have yours wired. When I put power to mine the needle pegs to the left pasts empty!
Thanks Jimmy
My 802 is located at some property I own several hours away, so I cannot take a picture of the wiring. I've attached a Beede Gauge Testing document that shows the 3 wires on a fuel gauge: Sender, Ground, Ignition. The back of the fuel gauge has the S, G, I molded next to the terminals. I've also attached a picture of my 803 fuel gauge wiring. The black wire is non-standard illumination for the gauge and won't be on yours.
 

Attachments

Ray70

Well-known member
2,592
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Location
West greenwich/RI
FYI be warned that the newer white body white Beede gages and the older Blue body gages ( not sure who made those ) are wired differently.
Or I should say the terminals are on opposite sides of the gage.
All you need to do is pay attention to the markings on the back of the gage.
The I terminal is for 24v+ the G is ground and S is the sense wire going to the sending unit.
All gages are marked with the same identifiers, just match them up. If you removed the wires and aren't sure where they came from simply use a DMM to look for voltage to find your power and ground, or use the ohm's setting to test the wires compared to one of the other gages.
 

JimmyLet58

New member
15
10
3
Location
NC
FYI be warned that the newer white body white Beede gages and the older Blue body gages ( not sure who made those ) are wired differently.
Or I should say the terminals are on opposite sides of the gage.
All you need to do is pay attention to the markings on the back of the gage.
The I terminal is for 24v+ the G is ground and S is the sense wire going to the sending unit.
All gages are marked with the same identifiers, just match them up. If you removed the wires and aren't sure where they came from simply use a DMM to look for voltage to find your power and ground, or use the ohm's setting to test the wires compared to one of the other gages.
Thanks for all your help Ray!
Jimmy
 

JimmyLet58

New member
15
10
3
Location
NC
FYI be warned that the newer white body white Beede gages and the older Blue body gages ( not sure who made those ) are wired differently.
Or I should say the terminals are on opposite sides of the gage.
All you need to do is pay attention to the markings on the back of the gage.
The I terminal is for 24v+ the G is ground and S is the sense wire going to the sending unit.
All gages are marked with the same identifiers, just match them up. If you removed the wires and aren't sure where they came from simply use a DMM to look for voltage to find your power and ground, or use the ohm's setting to test the wires compared to one of the other gages.
Hi Ray how many qts of oil does the 802 hold with the filter?
I see on the front cover says 3.2 is the with the filter full?
Thank you Jimmy
You been such a big help!
 

Ray70

Well-known member
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Location
West greenwich/RI
It holds just enough to read full on the dipstick! ;)
Actually you are in the ballpark at about 3 - 3 1/2 qts, but I always fill from the larger 2 1/2 gallon jugs so I just keep adding till dipstick is satisfied and never paid much attention to how much it holds, especially since you don't really get it all out due to the drain being on the side.
 
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