Any Ideas What’s Going On With My Dashboard Lights??

[jplace1011]

That sensor is a basic resistor with a temp variant...so depending on temp it has a set amount of resistance...I am not sure what it should be so that is the unknown part...does the plug have power or is it a ground type? To test the sensor you need a lead on each of the pins in it...ohms read...any chance the wires are swapped on the new plug?

I will have to pop the hood and take a few pictures of the wiring, in order to answer you questions. If I recall, the wires are both black, but I’ll have to double check.

I’ll get back to you soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jplace1011]

I will have to pop the hood and take a few pictures of the wiring, in order to answer you questions. If I recall, the wires are both black, but I’ll have to double check.

I’ll get back to you soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@WWRD99 Here are pics of the Sensor, including the wires and plugs. The original wires for the sensor were colored. As you can see the new wires are both black. I used the A & B letters as reference to wire the new plug. The Yellow Wire is a new piece of wire. The old wire was short, so I spliced the Yellow piece in.

Hopefully the pics answer your question as to whether it’s a Power or a Ground Type?

As I recall, it was doing this (drawing power after start up) before I put the new sensor, plug and wires in. If that matters.

I’m just wondering how exactly to test the Sensor and Plug with a Multimeter. This is all new to me, bare with me.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jplace1011]

@WWRD99 Here are pics of the Sensor, including the wires and plugs. The original wires for the sensor were colored. As you can see the new wires are both black. I used the A & B letters as reference to wire the new plug. The Yellow Wire is a new piece of wire. The old wire was short, so I spliced the Yellow piece in.

Hopefully the pics answer your question as to whether it’s a Power or a Ground Type?

As I recall, it was doing this (drawing power after start up) before I put the new sensor, plug and wires in. If that matters.

I’m just wondering how exactly to test the Sensor and Plug with a Multimeter. This is all new to me, bare with me.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just for the heck of it, I double checked the Glow Plug Wires we’re all connected. I then waited several hours and started the CUCV up again.

The Wait Light didn’t turn On and I noticed the Fuel Gauge wasn’t working. This (Fuel Gauge not working) is something that’s happened twice in the last two weeks. The needle will be all the way to the Left (Empty) before and after start up.

Not sure if that has anything to do with the Power Draw issue. In any case any ideas about the Fuel Gauge Not working?? I checked all of the the fuses just the other day.

Any advice on how to check the Temp Sensor (and plug on-top of it) with a voltmeter?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[antennaclimber]

It looks like the wait light came on at 0:16 and off at 0:19, the card kept the GP's on until 0:40.
This is normal operation for a GP card depending on the temperature of the engine. This is the after glow period.

To check the temp sensor,
Unplug it.
Set your meter scale to resistance x 1
Attach leads to the two terminals on the sensor
Read meter and see what it is.

The resistance will vary with the temp of the sensor, the colder it is the higher the resistance. Attached is a chart of our measurements of a GP sensor.

 

[jplace1011]

It looks like the wait light came on at 0:16 and off at 0:19, the card kept the GP's on until 0:40.
This is normal operation for a GP card depending on the temperature of the engine. This is the after glow period.

To check the temp sensor,
Unplug it.
Set your meter scale to resistance x 1
Attach leads to the two terminals on the sensor
Read meter and see what it is.

The resistance will vary with the temp of the sensor, the colder it is the higher the resistance. Attached is a chart of our measurements of a GP sensor.

@antennaclimber that sounds simple enough. I’ll try it out and report back.


Thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[antennaclimber]

It would be best to do it without the engine running.

 

[jplace1011]

It would be best to do it without the engine running.

@antennaclimber I took the sensor out to test it. The only reading I could get was: 1.1

Man, it was a bit of a pain. I have a real struggle with my big hands and the little probe tips into that small opening.

This is how I had the settings on the multimeter (pic above). Obviously the reading isn’t there.

Not sure what that reading means??

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[antennaclimber]

Looks like 1 ohm, try changing the scale to 200 or 20K and see what it reads. Are you sure you do not have the leads touching each other at the pins?

What is the P/N of that sensor?

It should be one of these:
GM part# 10045847

Old style
Napa - TS4032
Orielly - WT5133

New style
Napa - TS4015
Oreilly - TS4052

new pigtail
Napa - TSC200
Oreilly - PT191

 

[jplace1011]

Looks like 1 ohm, try changing the scale to 200 or 20K and see what it reads. Are you sure you do not have the leads touching each other at the pins?

What is the P/N of that sensor?

It should be one of these:
GM part# 10045847

Old style
Napa - TS4032
Orielly - WT5133

New style
Napa - TS4015
Oreilly - TS4052

new pigtail
Napa - TSC200
Oreilly - PT191

Yeah I was wondering about them touching as well. If I had to measure it again I would hold that sensor with a vice grip!

Here’s the temp sensor currently in the vehicle. I got it from O’Reilys (pigtail type):

I’m starting think I should go ahead and get one from your list since the number on mine isn’t on that list?

*When searching those parts, I only find the plug end, not the sensor.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[antennaclimber]

From what I found that is a replacement for the sensor.

 

[jplace1011]

From what I found that is a replacement for the sensor.

I went ahead and ordered a New AC Delco Sensor from Auto Zone. Once it arrives I’ll install it and see what happens. I’ll report back.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jplace1011]

I went ahead and ordered a New AC Delco Sensor from Auto Zone. Once it arrives I’ll install it and see what happens. I’ll report back.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@antennaclimber I replaced the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, but Nothing Changed. The Water in Fuel light still flashes.

It’s gotta be a Ground Wire/Ground Connection somewhere??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dougco1]

@antennaclimber I replaced the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, but Nothing Changed. The Water in Fuel light still flashes.

It’s gotta be a Ground Wire/Ground Connection somewhere??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your glow plugs are not cycling after startup and are causing a large draw on your electrical system. You changed your other parts twice to no avail.
I hate throwing new parts at an attempt to solve a problem but now it may be time to try another glow plug card.

 

[antennaclimber]

Your GP system is working normally. The high current draw after the engine is running is normal. The voltage sag is normal.
The glow plugs being on after start up is normal. The WIF light momentary flash issue is not normal, but we addressed that and a possible solution via PM.

After start up, the glow plugs are still drawing nearly 100 amps, this will cause the voltage drop. When the relay opens, that sheds the high current draw and the voltage comes back up to normal. The duration of the before and after start heat cycle is based on the resistance value of the temp sensor.

The GP card will cycle the relay if the sense voltage (orange wire) is above the determined threshold. This usually happens after one or more of the glow plugs have failed in the open resistance mode. It's a self protection feature that is trying to limit the time the glow plugs have a higher than normal voltage applied to them. This is particularity important if your GP system does not have the resistor bypass. If you are supplying the glow plugs with 12 volts directly (no resistor) then it is unlikely that you will see your GP's cycling. If your GP system is cycling, then you have a really good electrical system or there is the possibility that something is wrong. Either a high voltage issue or open glow plugs.

 

[dougco1]

Your GP system is working normally. The high current draw after the engine is running is normal. The voltage sag is normal.
The glow plugs being on after start up is normal. The WIF light momentary flash issue is not normal, but we addressed that and a possible solution via PM.

After start up, the glow plugs are still drawing nearly 100 amps, this will cause the voltage drop. When the relay opens, that sheds the high current draw and the voltage comes back up to normal. The duration of the before and after start heat cycle is based on the resistance value of the temp sensor.

The GP card will cycle the relay if the sense voltage (orange wire) is above the determined threshold. This usually happens after one or more of the glow plugs have failed in the open resistance mode. It's a self protection feature that is trying to limit the time the glow plugs have a higher than normal voltage applied to them. This is particularity important if your GP system does not have the resistor bypass. If you are supplying the glow plugs with 12 volts directly (no resistor) then it is unlikely that you will see your GP's cycling. If your GP system is cycling, then you have a really good electrical system or there is the possibility that something is wrong. Either a high voltage issue or open glow plugs.

antennaclimber
Both my trucks have a "cycling after glow" when cold starting. So as you stated above, do I have really good electrical systems in both my trucks? Or do I have issues with both of my trucks? The TM's state the "glow plugs will cycle up to 90 seconds" after start-up.
I had a similar issue as the OP did with the glow plugs drawing amps and not shutting off after start up in-till it rattled like it did in OP's first videos. It would sometimes do it even after a warm startup. It sounded like someone rattling a can of rocks under the dash for a few seconds then the glow plug system would shut off and all was good.
I first tried installing a new temp sensor to no avail. I then installed a new card "that I bought from you" and it fixed my problem.
So why is the OP's glow plug system not cycling on-off after engine startup? His volt meter is showing a steady draw after start up.
What am I missing?

 

[antennaclimber]

The card will only cycle the GP relay if the Voltage monitor circuit of the GP card detects a higher than desired voltage. At one time I did measure it, but that was years ago and I do not remember what it was. I think.....again think, some where above 14 volts.

It sounds like your original card had an issue with turning on and off the GP relay. I would suspect that the large switching transistor was going bad causing the relay to chatter. Relay chatter is not good for relay contacts especially when switching high currents.

You may want to individually test each of the glow plugs resistance and also measure the voltage to the glow plugs after starting the engine. The bottom of the GP relay where the Orange wires connect would be the best place to get a measurement. Do you still have the resistors in line or are they bypassed?

Other than that, cycle or not, your GP card sounds like it is doing what it was intended to do.

 

[antennaclimber]

CUCV Start Up

Here is a video of my M1009, the temp was around 50 deg F.
The voltmeter on the left is measuring the voltage to the glow plugs. The one on the right is the standard 24 v meter.
During the warm up time, the GP voltage is 8 volts. After start up it goes up to around 10 volts.

Once the GP card opens the GP relay, the volt meter then switches to monitor the 12 volt side of the vehicle.

 

[dougco1]

CUCV Start Up

Here is a video of my M1009, the temp was arounf 50 deg F.
The voltmeter on the left is measuring the voltage to the glow plugs. The one on the right is the standard 24 v meter.
During the warm up time, the GP voltage is 8 volts. After start up it goes up to around 10 volts.

Once the GP card opens the GP relay, the volt meter then switches to monitor the 12 volt side of the vehicle.

Nice Video;
I guess I stand corrected and would have never guessed. Being fortunate at having 2 trucks to compare with each other, that both run and start identically, I just assumed that all was just perfect. Both my rides are stock and have new or at least newer plugs and act the same way with no issues starting . They both pulse cycle after startup during engine warmup just like the TMs mention.
I guess now I have to get out the volt meter and "troubleshoot a problem I never had"

 

[antennaclimber]

I know the feeling,

A friend of mine and I troubleshot a problem that we " didn't have " today with a antenna rotor.
3 hours later, we fixed a problem that wasn't there when we started.

As we all know, If it isn't broken, don't fix it.