Refreshing Gunny the thread.

[GunnyM1009]

1985 Rubber Trans mount versus new Polyurethane trans mount. Seeing this is what made me pull the trigger on redoing all the body mounts.
Got the Energy Suspension body mount kit in today as well.

 

[Mullaney]

View attachment 874332
1985 Rubber Trans mount versus new Polyurethane trans mount. Seeing this is what made me pull the trigger on redoing all the body mounts.View attachment 874333
Got the Energy Suspension body mount kit in today as well.

.
I imagine it will make a big difference rolling down the road... The oddball squeaks should disappear too when you get some real rubber between the frame and body. Just replacing the (only) two cab mounts on my M1088 almost made it ride like a Cadillac. Yeah, okay like a Cadillac with four square wheels - but definitely better!

 

[GunnyM1009]

So my kit from Energy Suspension was missing one of the 2-1/2 inch washers. I contacted ES and they would not send me a replacement because I ordered it from Amazon. Amazon issued me a $20 dollar refund to buy the piece since ES wouldn't honor there product. I couldn't find the correct size so I made one.
One washer inside of another and welded. I realize I'm not a welder but they are permanently stuck together.

 

[GunnyM1009]

Fuel tank parts came in today.
I'm honestly thinking about cutting up the anti squeak kit and just putting the material on the high parts of the ridges. The factory one that I scraped and sanded off held a lot of dirt and moisture in the valleys being that it was glued all the way across. Any thoughts to the contrary and reasons why would be welcome. Also what adhesive would be best to glue the new anti squeak on?

 

[bprzyw]

I used to use truck inner tubes cut into strips for the tank straps, never glued them though.

 

[cucvrus]

I use seatbelts. They are everywhere and last longer than any other material I ever used. Seatbelts are good for many things besides holding your arse in the seat. I have some I have hooks sewn into and have used to pull engines on smaller vehicles.

 

[cucvrus]

So my kit from Energy Suspension was missing one of the 2-1/2 inch washers. I contacted ES and they would not send me a replacement because I ordered it from Amazon. Amazon issued me a $20 dollar refund to buy the piece since ES wouldn't honor there product. I couldn't find the correct size so I made one.View attachment 874429
One washer inside of another and welded. I realize I'm not a welder but they are permanently stuck together.

You may as well make a gantry and lift the body off the frame.

 

[GunnyM1009]

You may as well make a gantry and lift the body off the frame.

I know me to well. If the body comes off the frame entirely this will become a full blown restoration real quick instead of just a refresh and preservation. I'm trying to not let that happen because I would like to be driving it again sooner rather than later.

 

[cucvrus]

I was not talking body off restoration. I was talking getting the body up high enough to gain access to the current rear body mounts. Depending on rusted fasteners that can be a real chore. I use winches on the ceiling and bottle jacks to lift and shift the body around. A ratchet strap helps a lot also. I am doing the Energy Suspension cab/body mounts on my Little Red M1009 project today. I am going to complete this truck this year. I have screwed off long enough.

 

[GunnyM1009]

I was not talking body off restoration. I was talking getting the body up high enough to gain access to the current rear body mounts. Depending on rusted fasteners that can be a real chore. I use winches on the ceiling and bottle jacks to lift and shift the body around. A ratchet strap helps a lot also. I am doing the Energy Suspension cab/body mounts on my Little Red M1009 project today. I am going to complete this truck this year. I have screwed off long enough.

I got you. I misunderstood, I am replacing them all before the fuel tank, transmission, and transfer case go back in. The fuel tank being out makes getting to the rears easier. I'll have to start watching Little Reds thread a little closer glad you are finally going to get it completed.

 

[GunnyM1009]

@cucvrus What would you suggest for engine mounts? I've heard the Energy Suspension ones transfer more vibration than rubber ones do. I'm pretty sure you have used both so what do you think?

 

[cucvrus]

I heard a green grasshopper has a green Hiney hole. I never looked. I used Energy suspension motor mount inserts on every build. For someone to say these CUCV rattle boxes have more vibration is Ludacris. The only time I felt no vibrations on a CUCV was when it was parked and not running. My ears still vibrate a half hour after I get out of one. Ever hear katydids while driving? I do everytime I am in a CUCV. They are good and easy to install.

 

[GunnyM1009]

I heard a green grasshopper has a green Hiney hole. I never looked. I used Energy suspension motor mount inserts on every build. For someone to say these CUCV rattle boxes have more vibration is Ludacris. The only time I felt no vibrations on a CUCV was when it was parked and not running. My ears still vibrate a half hour after I get out of one. Ever hear katydids while driving? I do everytime I am in a CUCV. They are good and easy to install.

Appreciate it. I'll go with the Energy Suspension inserts.

 

[ezgn]

Appreciate it. I'll go with the Energy Suspension inserts.

Give Energy Suspension #31152 G available on Amazon a look, I believe these are the correct ones. Others will say otherwise, and other ones will work, but I believe these are the correct ones. I researched for a M1008. if the M1009 is the same then these will work.

 

[GunnyM1009]

Give Energy Suspension #31152 G available on Amazon a look, I believe these are the correct ones. Others will say otherwise, and other ones will work, but I believe these are the correct ones. I researched for a M1008. if the M1009 is the same then these will work.

Thanks the ones for our trucks are 3.1116G though.

 

[GunnyM1009]

Spent the day trying to get the horn working. The old horn did not work so I ordered a new horn and contact kit from LMC. Hooked up the new horn and installed the contact kit and click no blow. Tested the horn with a jumper it works. Cut out the capacitor at the horn and the diode at the relay and click. Pulled out the test light no power at the horn. No power at the bulkhead connector. Power going to the relay but nothing coming out of the wire to the horn. Removed the relay popped the cover off and cleaned the contacts. Put it back together and reinstalled still just clicks. I ordered a new relay I hope that's the issue because that's where the power is stopping.

 

[cucvrus]

Does it blow if you jump across the relay?

 

[cucvrus]

Did the horn blow after you jumped across the relay connection?

 

[GunnyM1009]

Does it blow if you jump across the relay?

I didn't think about trying that. I just figured the relay was bad since that seems like where the power is stopping even though I find that odd since the relay is clicking.

 

[GunnyM1009]

Got the horn figured out. Turned out to be corroded connections. When I cut the capacitor out in the front my wire wasn't long enough to reach the horn so I splice a piece in between the original terminals. I used a fingernail file to clean up the connections but apparently it wasn't enough. I jumped between the relay terminals as @cucvrus suggested then followed the current out to the connections. I cut those out and put on some blade connectors. Horn works great now. Still don't understand why I wasn't getting my test light to light up when I was probing the power out of the back of the relay. When I pressed the horn it should have lit up. But at least it's working now. One more thing to mark off the list.