FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[glcaines]

Gary, any news about loss of traction?

I had the FLU419 towed on a trailer to a shop that offered to assist in tilting the cab. I've now changed my mind and will have it towed to my home where I can tilt the cab myself. I am almost certain the problem is with the Intermediate Speed Control solenoid. Since it won't move either forward or reverse and the clutch is fine, that system almost certainly is the problem. The problem may or may not be with the solenoid itself. I will troubleshoot the issue according to the TM. Unfortunately, I'm recovering from surgery a few weeks back, so I have to be very careful what physical activity I'm involved with. I've ordered almost everything I need to tilt the cab. However, I'm not certain what one tool is used for. It is a plate, P/N 4195897032. I didn't see it referenced in the TM for tilting the cab.

 

[The FLU farm]

Have you verified that the switch on the clutch pedal makes contact?
As I recall, it has to be activated for the splitter to change ranges. Then again, if the starter works, the switch probably does, too.

Anyway, I would do/try/verify a LOT of things before tilting the cab.

 

[glcaines]

Have you verified that the switch on the clutch pedal makes contact?
As I recall, it has to be activated for the splitter to change ranges. Then again, if the starter works, the switch probably does, too.

Anyway, I would do/try/verify a LOT of things before tilting the cab.

The clutch switch definitely works. I intend to check both air pressure and 24 VDC to the solenoid prior to tilting the cab. I know the overall pneumatic pressure is good and is set at 106 PSI. However, that doesn't mean that one of the air lines feeding the solenoid isn't plugged up. When I first got the SEE, the main airline crossing over from the right side to the left side was corroded solid. I replaced it with a 316 stainless steel line. It is entirely possible that another airline is plugged up.

 

[The Stuff Fixer]

Here are pics of the new one. I got it off of Ebay. The owner bought it mil surplus and knows nothing about it other than it came off a mog. It looks the same as the one I got, so I will agree with him


View attachment 886059

Off to a good start. I have never seen this stuff. It was damp to the touch, but seemed to be doing what it claims to do.


View attachment 886060

Now the part that I am interested in.
View attachment 886061

Looks good but so did the one on the mog that is a rusty mess on the inside and has a 2008 rebuild tag.

View attachment 886062

A little rust but a world different than my first one.

View attachment 886063

The only noticeable wear that I am seeing is that gear in the center, the left 2/3 has some scratch marks.


View attachment 886064


Err what is that on that threaded looking gear? I went after it with a magnet and could not get it. I ended up going after it with a small stick, turns out some kind of a grease? What ever it is it went squish in my fingers.


View attachment 886065

There are no metal filings in the pic just some of the silicone that was used to close the top. That threaded thing is a chunk of silicone. Looking around there looks like there are passages for the gear oil to flow though, does that mean there is a pump somewhere? I will get that silicone out. How worried do I need to be about trying to find others?


I have moved all the gears by hand, moved all the bits that are moved with gear shifters and such. Everything feels fine to me. All of the gears appear to move when they should(This coming from someone who has never been inside one of these before). Anything else I should check? I really do not want to install this only to find there was a reason the military removed this from a Mog.

Any advise on what I should do with this before I install it? I am thinking get the rust off would be nice. Any thoughts on how to do that without putting metal dust inside, or just clean up well after myself. Do I need to tear it apart looking for more pieces of silicone that could plug things up?


Thanks,

Brandan

While you have it all apart and are putting it back together, don't forget the new shift bushing-both of them. Very easy to do on the bench, not so easy in the truck.

 

[brandan34]

Talking about the nylon cup looking things? I was looking at those, how do I remove them even on the bench? I am currently thinking cutting or chiseling it out, but seems there should be a better way.

 

[The Stuff Fixer]

Talking about the nylon cup looking things? I was looking at those, how do I remove them even on the bench? I am currently thinking cutting or chiseling it out, but seems there should be a better way.

Yes, There are 2 of them. Cheap from EI. The way I did mine was stuff a small rag in the hole to catch cuttings. Did /does it have the small pins in the side of the neck of the trans? If so remove them. There is a thread on here telling how to do that. I "lightly ground"(flat spotted) the side of my new bushings to put in were the pins go in. My old bushings were way bad. More like already ground up. Any way, my second FLU is in way better shape than my first one was.

 

[Davestaco]

Does anyone know where to source bucket teeth? I am thinking of modifying some into bucket tammers for dirt driveway snow plowing.

 

[The FLU farm]

Palletforks.com has/used to have them.
But how do you plow with a bucket? For pushing snow I've found snow pushers far more efficient.

 

[Montanaiceweasel]

I bought teeth off Amazon. They're a standard size.

 

[Montanaiceweasel]

Palletforks.com has/used to have them.
But how do you plow with a bucket? For pushing snow I've found snow pushers far more efficient.

For sure. Once you get a full bucket the snow falls back in your tire path. I've plowed with mine several years and the best you can do is having push-outs fairly often but even then your bucket will get iced and you'll need them more frequently. I'm considering taking some giant stumps and cutting groves in then lengthwise and pushing them onto the sides of the bucket. Still a real plow is the way to go.

 

[The FLU farm]

I started with a rear blade and the bucket on the tractor, then got a plow for the front of the tractor. Much better.

That was followed by a snowblower for the Winter SEE and an 8-foot snow pusher on the Summer SEE. Definitely a noticeable improvement.

Now there's a skid steer to run the snowblower (which it does much better), and the snow pusher is used to move large piles out of the way after the fact. But the tractor's two blades are still the main method, and I've completely given up on using a bucket for snow removal.

 

[brandan34]

Starting to put the mog back together. While painting the bottom piece of the roll over protection found 4 places where this pistol or revolver is stamped into the steel. It is cool. Does it mean anything?

 

[Migginsbros]

Perhaps an inspection stamp for the weld seam. Or the personal welder stamp.

 

[glcaines]

Perhaps it's an indication that the part was for military use?

 

[brandan34]

Perhaps an inspection stamp for the weld seam. Or the personal welder stamp.

I think you are on to something with this as all four stamps are each beside their own weld and these 4 welds are the biggest welds that I know of on the machine. Still made me smile when I found those. For anyone else looking remove the bottom piece of the roll over protection and check the ends. Not something a person would normally want to do, but if you ever pull a tranny might as well take a look while you are there.

 

[Migginsbros]

We get off the FOP only to tilt the cap. So we can´t find the stamps.
But think it´s O.K. to have a look at yours.

 

[Pinsandpitons]

Anybody want my FOPS? Free with pick up.

 

[brandan34]

That is probably the only part of mine that is not rust It is a good chunk of steel which I would not mind having around and i do know someone who makes it your way once in a while. why are you removing it?

 

[Knobby57]

I had the FLU419 towed on a trailer to a shop that offered to assist in tilting the cab. I've now changed my mind and will have it towed to my home where I can tilt the cab myself. I am almost certain the problem is with the Intermediate Speed Control solenoid. Since it won't move either forward or reverse and the clutch is fine, that system almost certainly is the problem. The problem may or may not be with the solenoid itself. I will troubleshoot the issue according to the TM. Unfortunately, I'm recovering from surgery a few weeks back, so I have to be very careful what physical activity I'm involved with. I've ordered almost everything I need to tilt the cab. However, I'm not certain what one tool is used for. It is a plate, P/N 4195897032. I didn't see it referenced in the TM for tilting the cab.

Sorry I didn’t see this earlier . Before you tilt the cab . Mine got stuck between high and low in the splitter . My main tank was over 100 psi . There is a priority regulator/unloader on the frame beam crossover just behind the trans under the truck . This is to make sure you have air pressure for your brakes and then gives you air for the splitter and 4x4 / lockers . If your 4/4 isn’t engaging this priority valve is probably stuck . I pulled off the air line that attached to the pass side and fiddled with the adjustment and it’s started to push air . Reconnected and it was working happy . If you pull off the pass side line and are not getting pressure when the air tank is charged you need to adress that . Most likely will
Not need to tip the cab

 

[Pinsandpitons]

That is probably the only part of mine that is not rust It is a good chunk of steel which I would not mind having around and i do know someone who makes it your way once in a while. why are you removing it?

It's been off for a couple years. Don't need the extra weight. When something falls from the sky whilst I'm sitting in it, I'll take it as a sign. Looks better without also.