I actually need one of these . What willIt's been off for a couple years. Don't need the extra weight. When something falls from the sky whilst I'm sitting in it, I'll take it as a sign. Looks better without also.
It cast me to ship to pa
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I actually need one of these . What willIt's been off for a couple years. Don't need the extra weight. When something falls from the sky whilst I'm sitting in it, I'll take it as a sign. Looks better without also.
I don’t know. If you want to ship it there, you should contact some shipping people‘s and get a quote, I’ll help load it, but I have too many irons in the fire to do that legwork for you. Sorry.I actually need one of these . What will
It cast me to ship to pa
Now that I am putting things back together I am starting to mess with the air system. Is there such a thing as an air diagram similar to the wiring diagram? Anything on the air system I should be expecting to be messed up with a mog that has been sitting for a long time?
Same here, weeks or several months. Actually started one the other day that had been parked for several years, without priming it first.Interesting. I have never had to prime my FLU419 even if it has been sitting for weeks without running. It always starts immediately.
Yeah, the tank and hose were taken from a tan FLU. I'm not hooking it up again as (so far) I've never had one freeze up even without any alcohol injection.I see you have a different alcohol system than mine. My alcohol tank was filled completely with Iraqi sand. The rest of the system was OK except for the hose, which made your hose look new.
Not sure if I have responded to your post, if so never mind, but if not;Priming the engine problems. When I go to prime the engine by hand it seems like there is a problem with the check value. If I pump fast enough I can fill the first filter, but as soon as I stop it starts dropping fast. I checked the small check valve beside the primer, it looks fine. I traded it with another one I have handy no change. I have not checked the one that is in the pump that is driven off the side of the high pressure pump, but figuring it has to be messed up and will check it next time I wonder out with a 3/4 socket set.
At this point I just prime it with an air hose on the vent of the fuel tank and the engine runs great . I am very happy to hear that thing run. On the other hand I would like to get this nailed down before I put the cab on in case I ever have a problem and do not have an air supply handy. Anyone else have problems with check values on the priming system?
I have gotten to prime it several times running down small air leaks where I did not tighten stuff enough and lost prime over a few hours and I always see this problem where the fuel leaks out of the filters fast. Sometimes it will work as expected on the first filter, but every time I have tried it by hand, once the fuel hits the second filter it starts dropping very fast and I lose my fuel from the first one as well no matter how fast I work the primer.
Side note I do have a new one primer from EI and the fuel system including inside the tank was one of the few things that was clean on this mog plus all new fuel hoses.
.Not sure if I have responded to your post, if so never mind, but if not;
My See gets parked for the winter and inevitably loses the prime in the fuel system. I chased air leaks on the suction side of the fuel pump initially. I and others have found that the plastic fuel lines can on occasion leak under vacuum but not under pressure. Its an issue with many models of Mercedes and the fix is usually to find a hose with with the same ID as the OD of the plastic lines. Then cut a short piece the size of hose clamp and slit it lengthwise and slide it over the connection than install a hose clamp over it. preferably you use a fuel injection hose clamp but a worm gear type also works. Also look carefully with flashlight and mirror at the fittings at the top of the tank that are tucked up under the frame rail. In most cases the tank needs to be removed to work on them.
The last item is that there is check/pressure relief valve mounted on or inside the injection pump. After a couple of winter seasons, that appears to be my issue. The injection pump uses fuel as a lubricant and is supposed to be full of it. The this relief vavle appears to leak down over a winter. I rigged up a outboard motor fuel tank with a squeeze bulb out of desperation after the first winter and hooked it directly on the discharge of the dual fuel filters. I would set the tank on the roof and squeeze the bulb until I felt pressure. it would usually start up as long as I kept squeezing the bulb since the fuel pump was not connected. It was messy and PITA with one person. I mentioned this to another SEE owner who also knows Mogs in general. He speculated the injector pump was draining out over the winter. He suggested pumping the new style Bosch primer pump multiple times until I heard the injector pump relieve. It takes 50 or 60 pumps and I hear a "burp" "fart" of "wheeze" back near the injector pump and then it starts right up. Its not loud but it is distinctive. I have done this two years in row for my first start of the spring. A lot easier than the boat tank. My friend usually drains the filter cans and put in pure injector cleaner then he cranks the engine over and lets it sit when he gets any ex military mog (he is large dealer of used Mogs) and claims that that is probably the best thing.
BTW Probably should be separate post but a FYI is that the injection pump is always recirculating fuel to the tank from this relief valve. The piping back to the tank is exposed near where the engine cover latches into place. It is possible that this hose can get damaged fitting the engine cover back in place and that is not good as its source of diesel being poured on a hot engine. My hose was pretty dry rotted when I got it. I dont hear of lot of SEE burning to crisp so it may not be a major issue but worth looking at.
If you have the cab off, I would spend some time with the complete throttle linkage, in many cases the throttle pedal shaft and nylon bushing is worn or bent and the roller assembly is out of alignment with the curved landing pad. Worth spending time taking a real good look. EI has the throttle shaft and bushing. The other thing to do is tug at all the small ball joints in the fuel rods. They are supposed to be retained from coming apart by tiny spring clips. They are not that hard to take out but with my hand's way to small and fussy to put back in place without the cab flipped up or removed. The ball joints will still work but they could pop off. I know mine is missing at least two and it nearly stranded me once.
Thanks for the detailed write up.Not sure if I have responded to your post, if so never mind, but if not;
My See gets parked for the winter and inevitably loses the prime in the fuel system. I chased air leaks on the suction side of the fuel pump initially. I and others have found that the plastic fuel lines can on occasion leak under vacuum but not under pressure. Its an issue with many models of Mercedes and the fix is usually to find a hose with with the same ID as the OD of the plastic lines. Then cut a short piece the size of hose clamp and slit it lengthwise and slide it over the connection than install a hose clamp over it. preferably you use a fuel injection hose clamp but a worm gear type also works. Also look carefully with flashlight and mirror at the fittings at the top of the tank that are tucked up under the frame rail. In most cases the tank needs to be removed to work on them.
The last item is that there is check/pressure relief valve mounted on or inside the injection pump. After a couple of winter seasons, that appears to be my issue. The injection pump uses fuel as a lubricant and is supposed to be full of it. The this relief vavle appears to leak down over a winter. I rigged up a outboard motor fuel tank with a squeeze bulb out of desperation after the first winter and hooked it directly on the discharge of the dual fuel filters. I would set the tank on the roof and squeeze the bulb until I felt pressure. it would usually start up as long as I kept squeezing the bulb since the fuel pump was not connected. It was messy and PITA with one person. I mentioned this to another SEE owner who also knows Mogs in general. He speculated the injector pump was draining out over the winter. He suggested pumping the new style Bosch primer pump multiple times until I heard the injector pump relieve. It takes 50 or 60 pumps and I hear a "burp" "fart" of "wheeze" back near the injector pump and then it starts right up. Its not loud but it is distinctive. I have done this two years in row for my first start of the spring. A lot easier than the boat tank. My friend usually drains the filter cans and put in pure injector cleaner then he cranks the engine over and lets it sit when he gets any ex military mog (he is large dealer of used Mogs) and claims that that is probably the best thing.
BTW Probably should be separate post but a FYI is that the injection pump is always recirculating fuel to the tank from this relief valve. The piping back to the tank is exposed near where the engine cover latches into place. It is possible that this hose can get damaged fitting the engine cover back in place and that is not good as its source of diesel being poured on a hot engine. My hose was pretty dry rotted when I got it. I dont hear of lot of SEE burning to crisp so it may not be a major issue but worth looking at.
If you have the cab off, I would spend some time with the complete throttle linkage, in many cases the throttle pedal shaft and nylon bushing is worn or bent and the roller assembly is out of alignment with the curved landing pad. Worth spending time taking a real good look. EI has the throttle shaft and bushing. The other thing to do is tug at all the small ball joints in the fuel rods. They are supposed to be retained from coming apart by tiny spring clips. They are not that hard to take out but with my hand's way to small and fussy to put back in place without the cab flipped up or removed. The ball joints will still work but they could pop off. I know mine is missing at least two and it nearly stranded me once.
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