CUCV M1009: Is it 3 OR 4 Outlets for Fuel Tank Sending Unit??

[jplace1011]

My Vehicle: 1985 CUCV M1009
I’m fairly certain the gas tank is the stock/original size (that’s a 25 gallon right?)

My Fuel Gauge has started to occasionally stop working. I checked the fuses, etc. From what I understand it can often be a bad connection at the fuel gauge in the dash end or at the other end, a Bad Sending Unit.

I recently cleaned and rebuilt much of my Dashboard/Instrument Bezel. This included installing a new circuit at the rear of the instrument bezel. I’m hoping the eliminates the Fuel Gauge/Dashboard end in this problem.

If the Fuel Tank Sending Unit has gone bad, it would need replaced. When searching for parts on LMCs website, I found 2 types of sending units: 3 outlets or 4 outlets.

If I’m reading the product description correctly (LMC Part 32-5944), there’s only 1 model that applies, which is a 4 outlet. I may very well be wrong.

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I looked under my vehicle at the sending unit. As expected it’s a bit dirty and I’m not entirely sure how many outlets there are. I also started thinking, will I damage anything if I hit that area with a hose/water?

I’ll ask the obvious simple question: is there only one type for my particular vehicle? Or did they come in two types of outlets on my particular vehicle? I also noticed the product description doesn’t mention diesel fuel. Does that at all matter?

Thanks in advance for any input or advice. I currently have the CUCV at the shop and am thinking maybe the Fuel Sending Unit can get replaced while it’s still there.


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[C130guy]

Mine looks like 4. Not sure on interchangeability between gas and diesel.

 

[WWRD99]

My Vehicle: 1985 CUCV M1009
I’m fairly certain the gas tank is the stock/original size (that’s a 25 gallon right?)

My Fuel Gauge has started to occasionally stop working. I checked the fuses, etc. From what I understand it can often be a bad connection at the fuel gauge in the dash end or at the other end, a Bad Sending Unit.

I recently cleaned and rebuilt much of my Dashboard/Instrument Bezel. This included installing a new circuit at the rear of the instrument bezel. I’m hoping the eliminates the Fuel Gauge/Dashboard end in this problem.

If the Fuel Tank Sending Unit has gone bad, it would need replaced. When searching for parts on LMCs website, I found 2 types of sending units: 3 outlets or 4 outlets.

If I’m reading the product description correctly (LMC Part 32-5944), there’s only 1 model that applies, which is a 4 outlet. I may very well be wrong.

Gas Tank and Components

Shop from thousands of parts and accessories to help you restore, maintain, and customize your Chevrolet, GMC, Dodge or Ford truck or SUV. Keep 'em on the road with the right part, right price, right now.

www.lmctruck.com

I looked under my vehicle at the sending unit. As expected it’s a bit dirty and I’m not entirely sure how many outlets there are. I also started thinking, will I damage anything if I hit that area with a hose/water?

I’ll ask the obvious simple question: is there only one type for my particular vehicle? Or did they come in two types of outlets on my particular vehicle? I also noticed the product description doesn’t mention diesel fuel. Does that at all matter?

Thanks in advance for any input or advice. I currently have the CUCV at the shop and am thinking maybe the Fuel Sending Unit can get replaced while it’s still there.


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yes it is a 4 hose deal...one is the vent for the fuel filler though so that leaves 3 on top 2 are for fuel and one is to run something external or to pull the fuel out of the tank...it is capped on the side of the frame if it's still stock...don't leave it open though leave it plugged. I have my tank laying on the floor now...you can hose that out all day...and yes replace the sending unit and clean out the tank...make sure the ground wire is solid too.

 

[jplace1011]

yes it is a 4 hose deal...one is the vent for the fuel filler though so that leaves 3 on top 2 are for fuel and one is to run something external or to pull the fuel out of the tank...it is capped on the side of the frame if it's still stock...don't leave it open though leave it plugged. I have my tank laying on the floor now...you can hose that out all day...and yes replace the sending unit and clean out the tank...make sure the ground wire is solid too.

View attachment 866048

That is very helpful, thank you.

Just curious, you may or may not know, were the Sending Units only in the 4 Outlet type for this particular vehicle?


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[jplace1011]

Mine looks like 4. Not sure on interchangeability between gas and diesel.

Thank you for the picture. You certainly have your work “cut out” for you!!


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[WWRD99]

That is very helpful, thank you.

Just curious, you may or may not know, were the Sending Units only in the 4 Outlet type for this particular vehicle?


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The blazer had the big hose for the breather built in to the top of the sender the truck had that built into the tank. This is my truck tank top.

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[jplace1011]

The blazer had the big hose for the breather built in to the top of the sender the truck had that built into the tank. This is my truck tank top.

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Look at that shiny new piece and sending unit. It’s so clean you could eat off it!!

I’m going to order the New Sending Unit from LMC. I may get a New Fuel Gauge while I’m at it. I already have a New spare Speedometer, might as while have a pair of New Gauges just in case.

I’ll have them check the Ground Wire as well. Anything else I should have checked or replaced while it’s all accessible?


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[C130guy]

Thank you for the picture. You certainly have your work “cut out” for you!!


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Not a problem! I took that photo last year when I was replacing my rotten bed, figured I'd make an access panel for when I need to replace my sending unit. One of these days I'll post a thread of my M1009 saga. I wish you the best of luck!

 

[jplace1011]

Look at that shiny new piece and sending unit. It’s so clean you could eat off it!!

I’m going to order the New Sending Unit from LMC. I may get a New Fuel Gauge while I’m at it. I already have a New spare Speedometer, might as while have a pair of New Gauges just in case.

I’ll have them check the Ground Wire as well. Anything else I should have checked or replaced while it’s all accessible?


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@WWRD99 just a quick question: I noticed there are only 3 Outlets in your picture of the New Sending Unit. Is that because the 4th line isn’t necessary? You mentioned before about just plugging one line off.

I’m your pic of the Old Sending Unit (like mine) there are 4 Outlets.


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[WWRD99]

@WWRD99 just a quick question: I noticed there are only 3 Outlets in your picture of the New Sending Unit. Is that because the 4th line isn’t necessary? You mentioned before about just plugging one line off.

I’m your pic of the Old Sending Unit (like mine) there are 4 Outlets.


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You asked about differences...that new pic is of my truck tank.

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[jplace1011]

You asked about differences...that new pic is of my truck tank.

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Ahhhhh I get it!


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[jplace1011]

Ahhhhh I get it!


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I ordered the 4 Outlet model and I noticed there was a seal for the top of the tank which I got as well. I got a new Fuel Gauge as well.

I’ll report back later on once we get it figured out.


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[ezgn]

I ordered the 4 Outlet model and I noticed there was a seal for the top of the tank which I got as well. I got a new Fuel Gauge as well.

I’ll report back later on once we get it figured out.


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I think the seal is included with the sending unit.

 

[jplace1011]

I think the seal is included with the sending unit.

It was only $7.95. Worse case, I’ll have an extra! Doh!


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[Commander5993]

Hey All, I know this thread is a few months old, wasn't sure if would better to post here or start a new thread? I can move this to a new thread if that'd be better, just let me know.

I have an 1986 M1008 6.2 and my fuel gauge has been "off" for a while now. It used to read correctly from "E to F", but after a while when I would fill the tank the gauge would read "more than" full. Then it started showing approximately "1/4 tank Over Full". Now it looks like its a "whole tank over full". Attaching photo that I took late this evening.

The worst part is I no longer know when the tank is getting low on fuel. I came very close to running out of fuel on the highway back some months ago, because I hadn't taken the truck on a longer trip for sometime and forgot about the gauge being "off" as it was below the "F" mark during the trip. The truck started sounding like it wasn't running right, and a couple miles later there was a small gas station on the side of the road that I pulled into. After looking the engine over, I remembered about the gauge and realized I might be low on fuel... filled it up and yep she was EMPTY. Ran fine the rest of the trip home. Gauge was still showing at least 1/4 tank at that time, but now where the needle points when I fill the tank is even father off then it was then.

I had thought maybe there was an issue with the gauge itself. And I took my instrument cluster completely apart back a few months ago when upgrading the bulbs to LEDs, and everything looked good including the... forgot what it's actually called, but the flexible "circuit" board. All the contact points were clean and undamaged, no corrosion etc. This was the second time I had the instrument panel apart, and cleaned it, since I've had the truck. And everything else on the dash works perfectly. (except the speedometer reads about 7 mph faster than you are actually driving, but I think that is because the tires are a bit bigger than stock size)

So the next thing in my mind is it must be the fuel tank sending unit. Would this be the correct assumption? Could there be something else causing this? I ask because from my limited experience at least, when a fuel sending unit goes bad the fuel gauge simply stops working. But could it also do something weird like due to increased resistance in the wiring? or??

I still have to get under the truck to try to look on top of the tank. But with reading this thread from what I understand if this truck does have a 4 port sending unit, it can be replaced with a 3 port unit since one of the lines on the 4 port is just capped off since it was only used to run "accessories".
Is this correct? Or would I still need a 4 port??

Thanks All.

 

[ezgn]

Hey All, I know this thread is a few months old, wasn't sure if would better to post here or start a new thread? I can move this to a new thread if that'd be better, just let me know.

I have an 1986 M1008 6.2 and my fuel gauge has been "off" for a while now. It used to read correctly from "E to F", but after a while when I would fill the tank the gauge would read "more than" full. Then it started showing approximately "1/4 tank Over Full". Now it looks like its a "whole tank over full". Attaching photo that I took late this evening.

The worst part is I no longer know when the tank is getting low on fuel. I came very close to running out of fuel on the highway back some months ago, because I hadn't taken the truck on a longer trip for sometime and forgot about the gauge being "off" as it was below the "F" mark during the trip. The truck started sounding like it wasn't running right, and a couple miles later there was a small gas station on the side of the road that I pulled into. After looking the engine over, I remembered about the gauge and realized I might be low on fuel... filled it up and yep she was EMPTY. Ran fine the rest of the trip home. Gauge was still showing at least 1/4 tank at that time, but now where the needle points when I fill the tank is even father off then it was then.

I had thought maybe there was an issue with the gauge itself. And I took my instrument cluster completely apart back a few months ago when upgrading the bulbs to LEDs, and everything looked good including the... forgot what it's actually called, but the flexible "circuit" board. All the contact points were clean and undamaged, no corrosion etc. This was the second time I had the instrument panel apart, and cleaned it, since I've had the truck. And everything else on the dash works perfectly. (except the speedometer reads about 7 mph faster than you are actually driving, but I think that is because the tires are a bit bigger than stock size)

So the next thing in my mind is it must be the fuel tank sending unit. Would this be the correct assumption? Could there be something else causing this? I ask because from my limited experience at least, when a fuel sending unit goes bad the fuel gauge simply stops working. But could it also do something weird like due to increased resistance in the wiring? or??

I still have to get under the truck to try to look on top of the tank. But with reading this thread from what I understand if this truck does have a 4 port sending unit, it can be replaced with a 3 port unit since one of the lines on the 4 port is just capped off since it was only used to run "accessories".
Is this correct? Or would I still need a 4 port??

Thanks All.

Here is the link for what you need. If you do replace it I think is is best to slide the bed back a foot or so to get room to work to replace the sender and the hoses.https://a.co/fIGVDr5

 

[WWRD99]

Hey All, I know this thread is a few months old, wasn't sure if would better to post here or start a new thread? I can move this to a new thread if that'd be better, just let me know.

I have an 1986 M1008 6.2 and my fuel gauge has been "off" for a while now. It used to read correctly from "E to F", but after a while when I would fill the tank the gauge would read "more than" full. Then it started showing approximately "1/4 tank Over Full". Now it looks like its a "whole tank over full". Attaching photo that I took late this evening.

The worst part is I no longer know when the tank is getting low on fuel. I came very close to running out of fuel on the highway back some months ago, because I hadn't taken the truck on a longer trip for sometime and forgot about the gauge being "off" as it was below the "F" mark during the trip. The truck started sounding like it wasn't running right, and a couple miles later there was a small gas station on the side of the road that I pulled into. After looking the engine over, I remembered about the gauge and realized I might be low on fuel... filled it up and yep she was EMPTY. Ran fine the rest of the trip home. Gauge was still showing at least 1/4 tank at that time, but now where the needle points when I fill the tank is even father off then it was then.

I had thought maybe there was an issue with the gauge itself. And I took my instrument cluster completely apart back a few months ago when upgrading the bulbs to LEDs, and everything looked good including the... forgot what it's actually called, but the flexible "circuit" board. All the contact points were clean and undamaged, no corrosion etc. This was the second time I had the instrument panel apart, and cleaned it, since I've had the truck. And everything else on the dash works perfectly. (except the speedometer reads about 7 mph faster than you are actually driving, but I think that is because the tires are a bit bigger than stock size)

So the next thing in my mind is it must be the fuel tank sending unit. Would this be the correct assumption? Could there be something else causing this? I ask because from my limited experience at least, when a fuel sending unit goes bad the fuel gauge simply stops working. But could it also do something weird like due to increased resistance in the wiring? or??

I still have to get under the truck to try to look on top of the tank. But with reading this thread from what I understand if this truck does have a 4 port sending unit, it can be replaced with a 3 port unit since one of the lines on the 4 port is just capped off since it was only used to run "accessories".
Is this correct? Or would I still need a 4 port??

Thanks All.

I'd try one thing before replacing it is the strap ground that connects to the sending unit to the frame...those like to rust up on both ends...the one on the frame is pretty easy to get to the one on the sender not so much...can do a voltage drop on the wire though and see if it's ok. You can drop the tank or if it's full pop the bed bolts out...if they aren't to rusty that can be a easy way to get to it. Have you looked inside the tank before to see if it's in good condition too? I replaced the tank and sender on mine. One thing I wish I did was to set the min and max drop for the float on the level sensor...mine doesn't move until 10 gallons are gone then moves fast...once it touches empty it is empty!! I could've bent the float up or down to get a more accurate guage.

 

[nyoffroad]

Here is the link for what you need. If you do replace it I think is is best to slide the bed back a foot or so to get room to work to replace the sender and the hoses.https://a.co/fIGVDr5

First thing I'd do is check that ground on the tank.
Instead of unbolting the bed just unbolt the four bolts holding the tank mounting brackets in place, have a floor jack under it and then lower it to where you can get in there and work. I've been known to cheat a little and replaced all the fuel hoses with longer hoses to get a bit more room, make sure the hosed don't get pinched or rub.

 

[Commander5993]

Here is the link for what you need. If you do replace it I think is is best to slide the bed back a foot or so to get room to work to replace the sender and the hoses.https://a.co/fIGVDr5

Thanks for the link. Sliding the bed back sounds better than dropping the tank, especially since its full. But it might be harder to do since I have this "camper" shell on my truck. Its pretty heavy and I don't have anyone to help me. Took me and 3 other guys when I put it on the bed back 10 or 12 years ago.
So I'll probably have to drop the tank. I do have a 12v fuel pump that I can use to empty the tank... just have to find something to store the fuel in.

 

[Commander5993]

I'd try one thing before replacing it is the strap ground that connects to the sending unit to the frame...those like to rust up on both ends...the one on the frame is pretty easy to get to the one on the sender not so much...can do a voltage drop on the wire though and see if it's ok. You can drop the tank or if it's full pop the bed bolts out...if they aren't to rusty that can be a easy way to get to it. Have you looked inside the tank before to see if it's in good condition too? I replaced the tank and sender on mine. One thing I wish I did was to set the min and max drop for the float on the level sensor...mine doesn't move until 10 gallons are gone then moves fast...once it touches empty it is empty!! I could've bent the float up or down to get a more accurate gauge.

Thanks for the info That is interesting, as I was thinking that there might be some type of connection issue causing more resistance... or loss of resistance? As I'm guessing that is basically the way the sending unit operates to send the electrical signal to the fuel gauge. I'll definitely check that out before I get into it further. This was an Arizona truck, and there wasn't any rust on it when I bought it. Even now there is only a couple small surface spots. Need to repaint it again, did so when I first got thet truck because the PO had used red and black primer to make it "camo". All the primer began to come off as that is not made for weather, anytime I'd brush up against the truck it'd come off on my clothes or on my hands... In any case, I really don't have the desire to paint it again.

Never had the tank down, so no I have looked inside. Probably needs cleaned honestly. I wouldn't be against replacing the tank if there was a need and the price was right. If I have to replace the sending unit, I'll have to figure out how to adjust it to match the gauge. Thanks for mentioning this as I didn't know that would even be needed. Would have been pretty disappointing if I replaced all that to still have the gauge off.