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HMMWV h1 6.5 non turbo crank wont start

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manny49

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6.5 non turbo with db2 ip. cranks over fine but wont start. no smoke coming from exhaust. Getting fuel to filter and to IP. Cracked injector lines, slight dribble on injector lines. Getting 24V to fuel shut off solenoid on top of IP. can hear it click. there is fuel coming out on return line on ip while cranking with no air bubbles. how much fuel should be squirting out while cranking? tired starting fluid, didn't make any difference. what else can prevent it from starting?. what test should be done next compression?
 
Mogman

Mogman

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It looks like you have pretty much checked all the boxes but for possibly the glowplugs, it should be warm enough now that you would at least get smoke and should try to start or start with lots of smoke.

Please do not feed that engine any more ether, they do not like that one bit!!

There will not be much flow out of the return line while cranking but any flow means you are getting fuel to the IP for sure.

About the only thing left to do is pull the top of the IP and check to see if there is any crap and the linkage is free.

It takes a 5 point security torx bit not the normal 6 point, you tube is your friend here as you want to make sure to get the top re-installed correctly.

You mention compression, you can usually tell if you have no compression while cranking, the lack of fuel at the injector lines seems to be the key, You should see a little "squirt" each time that injector tries to fire.

You can get a chepo compression gauge with a glow plug adapter to test.
 
Mullaney

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manny49 said:
6.5 non turbo with db2 ip. cranks over fine but wont start. no smoke coming from exhaust. Getting fuel to filter and to IP. Cracked injector lines, slight dribble on injector lines. Getting 24V to fuel shut off solenoid on top of IP. can hear it click. there is fuel coming out on return line on ip while cranking with no air bubbles. how much fuel should be squirting out while cranking? tired starting fluid, didn't make any difference. what else can prevent it from starting?. what test should be done next compression?
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Welcome to the Outfit!

Post up some pictures so we know for sure what you have - and to put a stake in the ground - so you can have picture of where you started. Be sure to download the Technical Manuals too. That will help with troubleshooting as well...

.
 
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Hummermark

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manny49 said:
6.5 non turbo with db2 ip. cranks over fine but wont start. no smoke coming from exhaust. Getting fuel to filter and to IP. Cracked injector lines, slight dribble on injector lines. Getting 24V to fuel shut off solenoid on top of IP. can hear it click. there is fuel coming out on return line on ip while cranking with no air bubbles. how much fuel should be squirting out while cranking? tired starting fluid, didn't make any difference. what else can prevent it from starting?. what test should be done next compression?
Click to expand...
Did it fire at all when you used starting fluid?
 
M

manny49

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Dieselmeister said:
Did it ever run before? Is it diesel coming from the injectors, or something else?
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There is small deb
Dieselmeister said:
Did it ever run before? Is it diesel coming from the injectors, or something else?
Click to expand...
there is slight dribble on injector lines while cracking. It was running fine. Coolant hose blew up while driving. Saw white smoke coming under the hood, turn it off. Fixed coolant leak. Tired to start it, just cranks won’t start.
 
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Dieselmeister

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The coolant leak may have done something to your glow plug circuit. Check if you are getting power to the plugs when you turn on the power. Are you sure the click you hear is the fuel soenoid, and not the cold advance coil? Check them with a meter, or by applying external power.
 
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Coug

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3 things a diesel engine needs. Fuel, compression/heat, air.

you're saying there is no smoke of any type out the exhaust when cranking, that would lead me to believe either you have a fuel delivery issue, or you have a serious compression issue. The added fact that it did nothing with the addition of starting fluid to me suggests that you need to go back to basics and do a compression test on the engine, and then possibly a leakdown test.

Compression test is pretty simple, you just need to have the proper kit for doing diesel engines (over 400psi rated)

leakdown is also pretty simple, and is best done with a leakdown tester, but you can do compressed air straight to the cylinder and just try to listen for where it's leaking.
 
M

manny49

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Dieselmeister said:
The coolant leak may have done something to your glow plug circuit. Check if you are getting power to the plugs when you turn on the power. Are you sure the click you hear is the fuel soenoid, and not the cold advance coil? Check them with a meter, or by applying external power.
Click to expand...
It’s hot outside. I don’t think it’s anything do with glow plugs. Yes there is 24v with ignition on. I can hear the click by disconnecting the plug on top of the solenoid
 
Mogman

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manny49 said:
No oil in coolant. I didn’t look at the temp gauge. Saw the smoke, shut it down right away
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I asked if there was any water in the oil, also is the oil level high.
You are a little vague about the readings when you noticed trouble, if the "white smoke" you saw was the beginning of the cooling system failure you should be OK, if the white smoke was sometime down the road from the event, IE the white smoke was you were cooking the engine down then you may be in big trouble.
 
Mogman

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If your compression was so bad that ether would not kick it (again don't do that again) it should be obvious while cranking, you had it running so you should know what it sounded like while cranking before the "incident", does it sound different now? It should sound even, not significantly speeding up and slowing down a couple times a second.
If you can post a video of you cranking it for 4-5 seconds.
As others have suggested checking the compression would not be a bad idea at this point.
 
M

manny49

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British Columbia, Canada
Mogman said:
If your compression was so bad that ether would not kick it (again don't do that again) it should be obvious while cranking, you had it running so you should know what it sounded like while cranking before the "incident", does it sound different now? It should sound even, not significantly speeding up and slowing down a couple times a second.
If you can post a video of you cranking it for 4-5 seconds.
As others have suggested checking the compression would not be a bad idea at this point.
Click to expand...
 
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