G749 preservation

[rustystud]

Sorry "plowboy" no special repair kits. I did buy 10 gasket kits for $20.00 each. Still in the original military wrapper. It was the same kit I got from you earlier, so no "reduction unit" gaskets. He did have fiber plates in 50 pack boxes. I bought a few. I asked if I needed more would he mail them to me. He said no. I doesn't like dealing with the postal system. So maybe next spring/summer when I come up to you, I'll make another stop at Lyle's place and buy more. He plans on getting rid of all his military stuff by summers end next year. If it doesn't sell he's scrapping it.

 

[Another Ahab]

Before installation we wanted to fix this broken pipe.

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We began by failing with an easy out to back out the broken pipe. Mechanic Mike suggested a 37/64 bit and the 3/8? tap and avoiding the easy out. The easy out can run crooked so after trying with the easy out, it was plan B.

Mech Mike suggested a donut magnet around the hole. That was brilliant. I couldn't find the 37/64 and the next $38.00 bit size down was 9/16....so I bought it. Used a fancy drill with a level on it and by the time I ran the tap in, the remaining pipe thread came out on the tap, perfectly in the center. This was a huge achievement for a landscaper.

Great record here, plowboy. Outstanding.

Okay. So I'm a knucklehead:

- What exactly is an "Easy-Out"?, and

- Like the drill has a bubble-level built into it? How about a pic of that "Fancy Drill" ?!

 

[m1010plowboy]

If you haven't had the adventure of using an easy out it's like winning the lottery. It's close to the last chance broken bolt removal tool. If you're at the easy out stage, things are bad. https://shop.wurth.ca/cutting/extractor-sets/easy-out-stud-extractor-set/-EASY-OUT--KIT/695.684353/ Mattech says they're the ones in the green box.



The winning drill for the day.



Had a hilarious and exceptional day with Project Put Paint Upon Piglet. PPPUP
The 'thing' with Piglet is just getting Paint Under The Engine Bonnet. Project PUTEB Today it was inner fenders and inner rad support housing.



The prep went well, with a big crosswind conditions were ideal. It's a little rough sanding off the stencils but that will be something we can also learn to do and it will be replaced. One inner fender took more work than I had time so the grinder came out with a sanding wheel.



The first coat went down nice......but painting outside is always risky and a little fuzz showed up. No big deal right?



With the shine coat done and the rad top looking phenomenal, it was time to let it dry.



Then the neighbour decided to bring the combine by because the fuzz wasn't enough. Might be a little dust on there in the morning. Painting outside is risky but with a Wagner sprayer, a bit of sand paper, anyone can paint just before the neighbour combines.

 

[Another Ahab]

If you haven't had the adventure of using an easy out it's like winning the lottery. Mattech says they're the ones in the green box.

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Oh, sure, a stud extractor; okay, I get it now. Thanks

PS Paint job looks real fine!

 

[m1010plowboy]

We learned something flushing the engine / transmission coolaid system.



If you don't have a radiator on, the flush fluid flows out of the lower rad hose before it flows into the transmission.



With the transmission coolaid line being slightly above pump intake, one must plug the lower rad line and keep filling until fluid flows from the transmission water drain hole. Keeping a G749 radiator full looks like it might help keep the trans cool.



We also learned if you put the tail shaft u-joint on the back of the trans before installing the powerpak.......



.......you don't need to remove the other half of the TC to trans u-joint. Or you could do it the way we did it, spend the afternoon removing the other half and only then, bolt everything back together. Might as well get a pic of the inside of the tc half to show that original green while it's off.



Rad ass' back together after paint, fuel tank pulled for a swap to the original side and I can almost smell paint burning from the first start.

 

[Another Ahab]

We learned something flushing the engine / transmission coolaid system.

Rad ass' back together after paint, fuel tank pulled for a swap to the original side and I can almost smell paint burning from the first start.

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Your doumentation is superb, plowboy; "top-shelf".

Good stuff!!

 

[marchplumber]

Well "plowboy" I just got back from "Lyle's" place today. Eight hours up and eight hours back. He has quite a collection of M135 parts up there. I ended up with five 303M transmissions and other assorted goodies. I don't know the condition of the transmissions though. He had them all outside. He does have two M135 trucks that don't have engines and transmissions in them, though he does have a complete power train . Again it has been left outside for years. The condition of the engine/transmission is unknown. The three differentials are also there, but at least they are sealed like all good differentials should be. I saw at least four M135 frames stacked on each other, and a lot of body parts laying all over the place.
I forgot to take my camera when we were walking up the hill to look at the trucks, but my buddy brought his cell phone and took some pictures. I'll try and get them and post then here for you.
There were also two WWII trucks I'm unfamiliar with. This one which was his parts truck and it's companion which was inside. There is also a M37 up there.

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Here's a picture of my Buddy and Lyle.
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Here's the back of my truck with the transmission loaded up.
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I wonder if @kendelrio would be interested in that door style tire holder? Hmmmmmmm

 

[m1010plowboy]

Thanks Ahab.....When the memory starts to go, when the TM's are dust, when the clouds of ash from when I ran, which Is real, creep across the Oceans, we still have the Steel Soldiers database. Not sure we've told them lately how much we appreciate them sticking around. Thanks Steel! It's like Christmas everyday.

See what I did there? Iran launched boomers into Israel today so I'm making a record of it.......and something about Chris.

Closer.



That radiator assembly is heavy. Didn't have any Big Ben's or Lumberjack Paul's around so Pascal and I flew the rad in. Used a mud flap for that rubber piece between the rad and mount so we don't squeek. Nothing like driving down the street squeaking like a clown.



Has anyone come across this funky connector on their truck? The tag smells like military issue. Might need a little tape on that until it's replaced. That's the hot wire to the starter.



Getting into those contortionist jobs where you're either sitting on the floor or jamming the arms in tight places to fit hoses on. That bottom rad hose.....that bottom rad hose.....that Piglet power disgusting bottom rad hose.



It is delicious having parts shelved at the G749 farm. Fort mac mopar man said he had a tower off the original trans in good shape so still might make that swap but I found a clean tower to get the truck in the barn. It's just trivial stuff but having the original pieces together fattens the story.



The original Goodyear belt finally gets to rest. Not sure this one hasn't been swapped out over the last 70 years but with thousands of these trucks resting on blocks for CD / EMO, for decades, it's possible the Goodyear had good years and is really old. It could have also flown to Egypt so who knows. Thanks to the golden DM, H, from CMV for access to the pics.

 

[rustystud]

I always loved the "Houdaille" (pronounced: who-die) shock absorber. Sometimes called the "knee action" shock. The original rebuildable shock absorber.

 

[Another Ahab]

I always loved the "Houdaille" (pronounced: who-die) shock absorber. Sometimes called the "knee action" shock. The original rebuildable shock absorber.
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Looks plenty robust (and reliable), is that right, rustystud?

 

[m1010plowboy]

I always loved the "Houdaille" (pronounced: who-die) shock absorber. Sometimes called the "knee action" shock. The original rebuildable shock absorber.
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I stood on that houdalle, had to look it up. Crazy history and market span. https://automotiveamerican.com/2018/09/06/houdaille-hydraulic-suspension-co/

While you're there, I found these round, large wife rings in the transmission kit. Since I know a guy who knows where they go, before I use these as "L's" on my "M's", Crush Washers, .....where are they supposed to go? I really want them to be crush washers.



Moved closer again. Kinda surprised how most things lined up. Even the throttle linkage popped back on and stayed without the pin.



The new mount and tower went in nice to replace Piglet's pig manure rotted old parts. It was just that trans shifter to reduction unit rod that caused some grief. It almost looked like a larger size clevis on the original rod but the sun sets early here and it might have been getting dark.

 

[Another Ahab]

It was just that trans shifter to reduction unit rod that caused some grief. It almost looked like a larger size clevis on the original rod but the sun sets early here and it might have been getting dark.

Plowboy, you know, maybe it's just cataracts...

 

[m1010plowboy]

Plowboy, you know, maybe it's just cataracts...

I can't blame the way the cat acts this time. I tried, but I got this look.



What I didn't do, in the last minutes of daylight, was peak at the book. Instead, I grabbed the CC Reduction Unit Control Rod RUCR and tried to put it on the Transmission Throttle Valve Lever TTVL. I needed to grab the Throttle Valve Control Rod TVCR for the Transmission Throttle Valve Lever TTVL. The DD, Reduction Unit Control Lever RUCL is larger than the TTVL. The TVCR is supposed to go to the Reduction Unit Idler Lever RULL. What I need to do is hook the RUCR to the RULL and RUCL, then hook the TVCR to the TTVL and the Idler Shaft Outer Lever ISOL. Simple stuff in the dark for a mechanic.

 

[rustystud]

I stood on that houdalle, had to look it up. Crazy history and market span. https://automotiveamerican.com/2018/09/06/houdaille-hydraulic-suspension-co/

While you're there, I found these round, large wife rings in the transmission kit. Since I know a guy who knows where they go, before I use these as "L's" on my "M's", Crush Washers, .....where are they supposed to go? I really want them to be crush washers.

View attachment 932745

Moved closer again. Kinda surprised how most things lined up. Even the throttle linkage popped back on and stayed without the pin.

View attachment 932746

The new mount and tower went in nice to replace Piglet's pig manure rotted old parts. It was just that trans shifter to reduction unit rod that caused some grief. It almost looked like a larger size clevis on the original rod but the sun sets early here and it might have been getting dark.

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Those round copper rings are crush gaskets for the oil pan coolant and oil plugs and the reduction unit filter/drain plug.

 

[rustystud]

It's funny that your working on the shift tower now. I just recently tore down one of mine and sandblasted it, then painted it. Interesting fact, it uses fiber swivel joints instead of copper/bronze ones.

 

[rustystud]

Looks plenty robust (and reliable), is that right, rustystud?

They were a great unit but cost too much to keep producing. Also they were rebuildable, so the manufacturer didn't get the money they would normally get selling a new one. They work extremely well and are adjustable, going from soft to very firm control.

 

[Another Ahab]

Those round copper rings are crush gaskets for the oil pan coolant and oil plugs and the reduction unit filter/drain plug.

Rustystud, Brother, you are better than Google!

You should catalog that worldly experienced mind of yours for world reference!!