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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

majkowskid

Member
53
44
18
Location
The Great State of Texas
I would double-check the A-coded wires behind the fuse blocks. I had similar issues. Do your fuse blocks have the paper labels that identify the circuits? Mine has them, but I saw another FLU419 where they were missing. If yours are missing, let me know and I'll send you copies.
I would double-check the A-coded wires behind the fuse blocks. I had similar issues. Do your fuse blocks have the paper labels that identify the circuits? Mine has them, but I saw another FLU419 where they were missing. If yours are missing, let me know and I'll send you copies.
I would double-check the A-coded wires behind the fuse blocks. I had similar issues. Do your fuse blocks have the paper labels that identify the circuits? Mine has them, but I saw another FLU419 where they were missing. If yours are missing, let me know and I'll send you copies.

I have the little labels behind the fuses if that’s what you’re asking.
Wondering if I may have one of the single wires I asked you about behind the blocks incorrect…. First thing I’m going to try is double checking the wires to the turn signal switch. If you have time, if you could shoot me a pic of the back of your switch that would help since we have the same harness! I could match up wire colors then
 

majkowskid

Member
53
44
18
Location
The Great State of Texas
Update on wiring!
everything works!!!! All lights, all blinkers, blackout lights, hazards, air shifter everything!!!

now I just have an air leak under the 4 end bolts of the air shifter… nothing majir but I wanna fix it. There are two metal gaskets under there which I doubt I will be able to find.

anyone know if I can just use some heavy duty gasket sealer? It is right where one of the air lines connects to the air shifter.
 

MogPoggers

Member
45
95
18
Location
Jamestown, New York
Update on wiring!
everything works!!!! All lights, all blinkers, blackout lights, hazards, air shifter everything!!!

now I just have an air leak under the 4 end bolts of the air shifter… nothing majir but I wanna fix it. There are two metal gaskets under there which I doubt I will be able to find.

anyone know if I can just use some heavy duty gasket sealer? It is right where one of the air lines connects to the air shifter.

Just from my general experience, I don't see why you couldn't... but I've never actually seen the part you're talking about. The bigger it is and the further apart the bolts are, the less confident I would be in getting a good pressure seal. I say use your best judgement - it might be worth the effort to try to find the correct gaskets... or make your own out of the correct thickness sheet metal if you have a plasma cutter.
 

majkowskid

Member
53
44
18
Location
The Great State of Texas
Just from my general experience, I don't see why you couldn't... but I've never actually seen the part you're talking about. The bigger it is and the further apart the bolts are, the less confident I would be in getting a good pressure seal. I say use your best judgement - it might be worth the effort to try to find the correct gaskets... or make your own out of the correct thickness sheet metal if you have a plasma cutter.
Here’s a schematic and parts breakdown of what I’m talking about. It’s #5 on the diagram
 

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glcaines

Well-known member
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Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
If you look at TM 5 2420-224-34 on Page 617 / (15/65), you will notice that it lists the spacers as packing. I don't remember the details when I assembled mine, but it appears that the spacers go under the cover without any other packing or gasket. I would surmise that the sealing occurs between the innermost spacer and the main assembly. If you use sealing compound, I recommend placing it around the edges of the innermost spacer only since this is obviously the only area that could leak air. I would try Permatex #3 AKA Aviation-Form-A-Gasket. Make sure only a thin film of sealant is used because you obviously don't want any of the sealant to enter the area where the piston slides. It is interesting that the assembly directions for this small cover doesn't mention the metal spacers or sealant. As mentioned, I don't remember the details when assembling mine, but I don't remember using any sealant. However, I didn't pre-test mine with compressed air prior to final assembly like you did, so mine might be leaking air as well, but it works fine anyway.
 

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Stoik

New member
12
13
3
Location
Utah
Just checking in because it's been a while. I've been living at the new property, getting things done and haven't had a lot of time for the internet. But I figured it's time to let you guys know I'm not dead.

However, the front hydraulic pump belt on my SEE is dead - or close enough. I've been using it a lot, and now the belt is squeeling and the loader is weak. I may just need to retension it, but I've ordered a couple replacement belts for it just in case. If I do end up needing to replace it, I'll upload a video to YouTube documenting the process (I'm sure I'll **** it up and you guys will all laugh at me).

Also, I've decided I need to replace these Pirelli tires. They're fine for road use, but I don't use this thing on the road and I've gotten it stuck and had to pull it out with my dozer a couple times (still learning where the muddy/sketchy parts are on this property). Anyway, does anyone have recommendations for the absolute biggest, nastiest, most aggressive mudders that would work? I know most of the things 'truck guys' might recommend, but if you'd recommend something different, let me know.

I was looking at the Alliance 398 MPT, but was disappointed to find that they don't seem to come in a 20" rim size. Too bad, they seem like they'd be perfect for on and off road use.
I bought some tractor tires for mine through simple tire
Just checking in because it's been a while. I've been living at the new property, getting things done and haven't had a lot of time for the internet. But I figured it's time to let you guys know I'm not dead.

However, the front hydraulic pump belt on my SEE is dead - or close enough. I've been using it a lot, and now the belt is squeeling and the loader is weak. I may just need to retension it, but I've ordered a couple replacement belts for it just in case. If I do end up needing to replace it, I'll upload a video to YouTube documenting the process (I'm sure I'll **** it up and you guys will all laugh at me).

Also, I've decided I need to replace these Pirelli tires. They're fine for road use, but I don't use this thing on the road and I've gotten it stuck and had to pull it out with my dozer a couple times (still learning where the muddy/sketchy parts are on this property). Anyway, does anyone have recommendations for the absolute biggest, nastiest, most aggressive mudders that would work? I know most of the things 'truck guys' might recommend, but if you'd recommend something different, let me know.

I was looking at the Alliance 398 MPT, but was disappointed to find that they don't seem to come in a 20" rim size. Too bad, they seem like they'd be perfect for on and off road use.
I bought don't bkt
Just checking in because it's been a while. I've been living at the new property, getting things done and haven't had a lot of time for the internet. But I figured it's time to let you guys know I'm not dead.

However, the front hydraulic pump belt on my SEE is dead - or close enough. I've been using it a lot, and now the belt is squeeling and the loader is weak. I may just need to retension it, but I've ordered a couple replacement belts for it just in case. If I do end up needing to replace it, I'll upload a video to YouTube documenting the process (I'm sure I'll **** it up and you guys will all laugh at me).

Also, I've decided I need to replace these Pirelli tires. They're fine for road use, but I don't use this thing on the road and I've gotten it stuck and had to pull it out with my dozer a couple times (still learning where the muddy/sketchy parts are on this property). Anyway, does anyone have recommendations for the absolute biggest, nastiest, most aggressive mudders that would work? I know most of the things 'truck guys' might recommend, but if you'd recommend something different, let me know.

I was looking at the Alliance 398 MPT, but was disappointed to find that they don't seem to come in a 20" rim size. Too bad, they seem like they'd be perfect for on and off road use.
I bought BKT tractor tires through simpletire.com 500 each free shipping. Super aggressive.
 

Stoik

New member
12
13
3
Location
Utah
I bought some tractor tires for mine through simple tire

I bought don't bkt

I bought BKT tractor tires through simpletire.com 500 each free shipping. Super aggressive.
 

brandan34

Member
53
42
18
Location
Southern Oregon
Where it holds pressure on the gauges the problem is before the check valves into the tanks. Check the crossover tube from the tanks under the left frame across the truck then through the right frame in front of the back tire. While it could have a leak that would be uncommon vs it tends to plug up and not let air through. (If no leaks futher up the system, this would be my guess. After checking for leaks in yhe test of the system remove it and see how much air you can blow through it. Someone on here years ago sold them made out of stainless. With the right adapters 1/2 tubing of any sort can be used.).


Look around the back right tire for air noises while the truck is running. Look for leaks in the alcohol thing and the unloader(this could also plug but is less common). Then there is a tube that goes to the front right where the air compressor is located.

While I guess it could be the compressor, that would be a low odds guess for me.
 

Migginsbros

Well-known member
2,308
7,158
113
Location
Berlin-Germany
@glcaines did you check or renewed the compressor head?

Found an issue Oktober 2024 at an UNIMOG 406 compressor.



Compressor head. We wanted to change both valves in the head from our friends 406. Checked which on failed. Screwed it out and we found a 3/8 long piece from the spring between the valve plate and his seat. So we only changed the spring (still availlable from Mercedes) for cents.
 
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glcaines

Well-known member
3,946
2,692
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Where it holds pressure on the gauges the problem is before the check valves into the tanks. Check the crossover tube from the tanks under the left frame across the truck then through the right frame in front of the back tire. While it could have a leak that would be uncommon vs it tends to plug up and not let air through. (If no leaks futher up the system, this would be my guess. After checking for leaks in yhe test of the system remove it and see how much air you can blow through it. Someone on here years ago sold them made out of stainless. With the right adapters 1/2 tubing of any sort can be used.).
Look around the back right tire for air noises while the truck is running. Look for leaks in the alcohol thing and the unloader(this could also plug but is less common). Then there is a tube that goes to the front right where the air compressor is located.

While I guess it could be the compressor, that would be a low odds guess for me.
I replaced the crossover tube years ago with one made from 316 stainless, so that couldn't be the problem. I went all over all lines and fittings with soapy water and couldn't find a leak.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,946
2,692
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
@glcaines did you check or renewed the compressor head?

Found an issue Oktober 2024 at an UNIMOG 406 compressor.
Compressor head. We wanted to change both valves in the head from our friends 406. Checked which on failed. Screwed it out and we found a 3/8 long piece from the spring between the valve plate and his seat. So we only changed the spring (still availlable from Mercedes) for cents.
I replaced the compressor head with a new one months ago and it appears to be working fine. However, you never know. I guess it is possible that the new head isn't working properly. Although the pressure regulator is holding the pressure at 106 PSI, it could also have an issue, as well as the alcohol injector. I need to do some serious troubleshooting to narrow the problem down.
 

brandan34

Member
53
42
18
Location
Southern Oregon
There are only a few things that it can be, compressor, unloader, alcohol injector, a leak before the tanks or an obstruction anywhere from compressor through all the stuff listed and possibly futher if it is an obstruction.

From what you said I would remove the air line going into the unloader bend it down just a little to get it out of the way, get an air compressor with a rubber tip, hold it up to the unloader and try filling the system with the truck off. It takes a bit to hold up there, but would is a fast way to find leaks or know if you have an obstruction in the system by how fast the pressure raises in the cab.

If you can fill the tanks fast with no leaks doing that then look at the compressor.
 

majkowskid

Member
53
44
18
Location
The Great State of Texas
Need some help guys. In the middle of digging a hole for my septic tank. Everything was working fine. Went to lift the front loader with the switch on the rear and it wouldn’t raise. Went inside the cab and also will not raise or tilt. I’m in the middle of nowhere with no laptop or my manuals. Anyone have any ideas? Right now I can’t move the mog because the bucket is down.
 

brandan34

Member
53
42
18
Location
Southern Oregon
Same problem a few days ago. Jam lever in the up pos then handyman jack did the trick for me. Once up set the things on the lift arms to hold it up.

My part is different than the one above, but does work. The belt that I copied I think I got from EI. Anyway just make sure the belt you get is a stronger kind.(not fractional horse power. Learned that the hard way.)

 

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