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rear tailgate window problems

maritimer

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hey guys, it sems my rear window handle is not working it just spins, some times it grabs the window but then just slips off and i end up with a window stuck half up.
while this would be ok in a nice arid climate its snowing here and cold and the female passengers dont like the cold to much

any thoughts on how to fix this shy of scrounging a new gate
 

FMJ

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Get the window down, open the tail gate and take the cover off the inside, check to make sure the window is still seated in the track on the sides and bottom, look for anything thats loose.......fix it.
 

JohnFire

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Location
Pottsville, PA
sounds like stripped gears, you might need an extra hand cause once you get the cover off to access the cranking mechanism you will have to roll the window up with the tailgate down so that is where the extra hands help to hold the window.
 

ida34

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Dexter, MI
A lot of times the side tracks are rusted out and the felt is gone. This causes a lot of the problems.
 

MILRET45

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8
Location
LA GRANGE, TX
Ditto all of the above. The problem most likely lies in the regulator assembly and the gear engagement of the lift arms. I have seen cases where the gear teeth have jumped engagement and cases where the tips of the lift arms are out of the window track, though that usually results in the glass dropping on one side or the other.

Regulator parts are still available through LMC or Chevrolet but might outprice a used gate.
 

Bobert

Member
472
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18
Location
Des Moines/ Iowa
Mine had the same problem. I got mine with the tailgate all taken apart. and a new one. The old regulator was somewhat stripped.

A new was was about $110 at LMC. Expensive, but it works.
 

KD

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Location
Central Indiana
Rear tailgate window problems

Maritimer,

I don’t know how mechanical you and or how far you want to go into this, but most likely it is your clutch on the window crank itself. What usually happens is the felt in the window runs (tracks) on each side of the door rot away and the window binds up. There is a pot metal "clutch" that drive the regulator gears and arms up and down and the force of trying to crank the bound up window bends or breaks the ears off the clutch. The two major things you will probably have to fix are the window runs and the crank clutch (there will be some other things you will want to consider, but I will try to get your window working first. If you have a place to keep it inside and some time and money you can just do every thing all at once. There is no sense in just doing part of it, you will have everything apart and it all goes hand in hand. However, if you need to drive it and have to wait on parts, I can get you going until you are better situated.

First you have to take the cover off the inside of the tailgate (Phillips screws). This is kind of a pain, since I am assuming the window is high enough that you can't open the tailgate. If you have it open, it is much easier than climbing inside and over the back seat trying to take all the screws out of the cover and disconnecting the window. Anyway, once you have the cover off you will see two arms that support the window, one on each side. These short support sections are bolted to the bottom window support with two 7/16" bolts on each one. Take those bolts off and slide the short pieces off (there is a roller inside those short pieces which are connected to the lift arms). You can then gently let your window all the way down (if you have to open the tailgate MAKE SURE THE WINDOW IS ALL THE WAY DOWN to get clearance to open the tailgate. Once the tailgate is open, it gets a little tricky and it might be best to have a helping hand or something to support the window. Once the tailgate is down you are going slide the window out enough to get to the crank gear mechanism inside the tailgate. The glass shouldn't fall out because of the rubber weather stripping, but it will need to be supported by something or someone. There are four 7/16" bolts, one at each corner of the crank mechanism. A couple are kind of hard to get to because they are under the crank. They will come out, but it is a pain. The best wrench I have found is a Gear Wrench from Sears, box end ratchet wrench, and it makes it so much easier. Once you get the crank mechanism out of the tailgate, set it aside for later (at some point you will probably want to clean the old grease and rust off the gear assembly and relube it. Just depends on how much time you have at this point). Once the crank gear assy is out you will see two nuts in a recess. You will need deep walled socket and ratchet for those, 7/16" I think. Take those two nuts off and the handle assy will come off the other side. It has a rubber gasket on the outside that only fits one way. It might stick, but the handle assy will come off. Once you get the crank assy off you should see the drive clutch and it should have two "ears" sticking up that engage the window gear mechanism. They will either be worn or maybe even broken off. At this point you have two or three options. You can go ahead and repair the handle by replacing the clutch, (about $20 and shipping from LMC or you can replace it with a whole new crank assy (pricey) You might find one in the junk yard, but you are taking a chance you will get the same thing. The other quick option if you need to keep driving the vehicle while you are waiting on parts, is leave the handle out and put the gear assembly back in (four bolts), slide the window back down and put the two supports back on the rollers and bolt them back on the window. ( AGAIN, MAKE SURE THE WINDOW IS ALL THE WAY DOWN IF YOU LIFT THE TAILGATE UP. IT IS SPRING LOADED AND WILL BREAK YOUR GLASS FASTER THAN YOU CAN SAY (insert your own curse word). Once you get the assembly back together you can use a some kind of tire iron, screw driver or ratchet with some slotted end to raise and lower the window. I have used this once just to get home and until I got all the parts I needed. The other thing you need to probably change is the window runs. They are usually the source of the clutch breaking. You can order new runs (pricey) or clean and replace the felt. If you are going to continue to drive until you get your other parts, you might wait on the window runs, but I would sure repair or replace them before your final assembly, or you will be doing this again at some later, inopportune date. The other thing you might want to consider, is your rubber weather stripping on top of the tailgate. Once you have the thing this far apart, it is the time to replace them if you need them. I bought mine from Fairchild Industries and it was about $90 for the inner and outer. Trust me, if you put the time into fixing the window runs, with the handle, you will not regret it.

I hope this info helps you and if you need any further explanation. I don't how to attach photos, but feel free to email me if you need and I will do my best to help explain it to you.

ONCE AGAIN...DO NOT LET THE TAILGATE GO UP WITH THE WINDOW ABOVE THE TAILGATE. IT IS SPRING LOADED AND WILL CLOSE FAST, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU DON'T WANT IT TO.

Good luck and best regards,

KD
 

Rocco

New member
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Location
Lynchburg VA
RE: Rear tailgate window problems

Go to the junk yard and get your self a used crank handle off.
that's what happened to me its probly the crank handle part.
 

maritimer

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Yarmouth, NS
RE: Rear tailgate window problems

thanks alot KD,
thats what i was looking for, im in the middle of a house trailer move and some esxcavation work right now so the repair will have to wait another couple of weeks, but i have lots of space and mechanical expierience, just gotta find the parts LOL.
holy crap its expensive to rent an excavator
 

clinto

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Ok, I need some help and this seems like the best thread to try and get it from (there are a million M1009 rear window crank threads).

I am working on an '09 and rebuilding the rear window mechanism. The original crank and clutch were broken, so I bought new items from LMC. I have the original lock cylinder and the new components, but I think I am still missing something. When I turn the key in the lock clyinder, the clutch still freewheels........

Can someone look at my pics and let me know if they see something I am missing?


Thanks fellas...
 

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clinto

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Ok, I am back on this project (some other responsibilities have taken up a lot of my time {work, Ga. Rally, more work, etc.}) and a few folks have pm'd me and asked for a couple more pics.

I do not understand a couple of items. What holds the lock cylinder in the window crank assy.? The damaged one that came out of the M1009 didn't have a clip and the exploded diagram int he TM doesn't make it clear if there is a clip specifically for the lock cylinder.

The second question I have is how the crank assy. (#19 in the scematic) engages the clutch (#24). When I put the key in the lock cylinder and turn it, it makes no difference the clutch still flywheels.

Last question: Where and what are item #'s 32, 31 and 30? Appears to be a spring, a roll pin and who knows what (#32). They weren't in the M1009 when I took it apart and I don't even see where they would go.....................

Thanks fellas!

C
 

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Armada

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Nice write-up, KD. Ditto on the clutch.
The window handle should never be forced. If it's hard to turn or suddenly gets tough to turn don't force it, it will only cause more damage. The M1009 rear gate windows need an annual PM to keep them operating smoothly and correctly. Most never get that.
 

319

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Clinto, #31 (spring) & #32 (pawl) sit at the bottom of the lock cylinder in the latch assembly. (#30 appears to be a roll pin that holds the handle to the rest of the latch). When you turn the lock cylinder, the cam on the cylinder moves #32 from side to side engaging or disengaging #24 like you suspect in one of your photos. If they're missing then the crank will just spin. Can't answer about what holds the lock cylinder in because mine always falls out and I'm not sure why. All I find at the salvage yard are powered windows so one of these days I'll get around to ordering new parts. Hope this helps!
 

clinto

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Thanks so much, 319. I really appreciate it. I have ordered the 2 missing items from LMC and will report on my progress next week.

Thanks again, this forum is a great service. I hope someone out there has been helped by something I have posted as much as I have been helped by you guys.

:beer:
 

clinto

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Alright, I return again humbly requesting the assistance of the CUCV gods.

I have the missing spring and pawl but I can not figure out how they engage the lock cylinder. I understand how the spring goes into the pawl, the machined hole.

But I don't see the way the pawl should be situated.

Help?
 

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1crook

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Alright, I return again humbly requesting the assistance of the CUCV gods.

I have the missing spring and pawl but I can not figure out how they engage the lock cylinder. I understand how the spring goes into the pawl, the machined hole.

But I don't see the way the pawl should be situated.

Help?
Hey crackhead, have you still not figured this out? You can't work on my trucks anymore!

rofl
 

rfischba1

Member
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Location
Fort Meade MD
I have mine all apart same problem, got over a hundred parts and don't feel like trying to put that mess together. For now I use a sheet of plastic with lots of duck tape.
 
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