Read all FAQ's, but have new questions

[realm]

Bought my first M1009 from a very helpful gentleman on here, but have some questions I couldn't find answers to:

1) On the dash to the left of the steering wheel and down, beneatht he blackout switches I think, is a knob you can pull, that seems to open some kind of vent beneath the dash... what is that?

2) How can I tell if the trans, axles, etc. are the standard? This thing is geared so low I'm wondering if it's the M1008 drivetrain. I got up to 55-60 but it's screaming at that speed. Of course this is my first MV, but curious how to tell.

3) What's the life expectancy of a 6.2L and transmission? Mine has 100K miles.

4) What all do you recommend I check/do now that I'm the new owner? I know it has the powerstroke glow plug relay and new belts. What else do I need to check or replace? Engine oil, fuel filter, etc.

5) The 2 blackout switches... the one on the right I get. Service lights on off, or blackouts on, but what is the switch on the left? If I pull it out and try to rocker it up or down, it snaps back to the middle position and stays put. Is this switch worn out and what does it do?

6) Will auto shops work on these things when you break down or do you just have to tow it back to your house and you're on your own.

I'm no mechanic, but I think my plan will be to over time convert as much as I can to civilian Blazer setup so it's easier to find parts and so forth and get shop help when I need it.

 

[m38inmaine]

"I'm no mechanic, but I think my plan will be to over time convert as much as I can to civilian Blazer setup so it's easier to find parts and so forth and get shop help when I need it. "

So why buy a military blazer??

 

[thedeliverator]

1. That's a fresh air vent. You have one on the passenger side as well. State-of-the-art climate control!

2. Count the number of bolt heads/look at the pattern on the differentials. There's a good recognition guide in the LMC Truck catalog, which you should get if you don't have one already. You have a three-speed transmission, so yeah, above 60mph that engine will be revved pretty high. I've done 75 with no problems other than needing earplugs.

3. Not sure about total lifetime, but keep up the fluid changes and it will last a good long while.

4. Read the TMs for all the preventative maintenance items. If the oil and filters are of unknown age, consider replacing them, same for the coolant. You will also want to hit all the grease fittings underneath the truck.

5. That leftmost switch triggers the blackout lights; up is on, down is off. Since it's on a relay the switch doesn't need to stay in the on or off position. Go out at night some time to check the B/O lights.

6. Just about everything is standard GMC truck stuff, so pretty much everyone will work on these, and parts are readily available.


The biggest common conversion is from 24V starting to 12V starting, which allows you to use the more common 12V starters. However it's not impossible to find the 24V starters (bought mine at NAPA), so you can just stay with the stock system if you want to. The other thing to do is add a drain plug to the transmission pan.

Oh, and pull the rubber floor mat if it still has one, it just invites rust. Truck bedliner is a great replacement.

"I'm no mechanic, but I think my plan will be to over time convert as much as I can to civilian Blazer setup so it's easier to find parts and so forth and get shop help when I need it. "

So why buy a military blazer??

Lower mileage? Attractive green paint scheme? Total absence of A/C? M1009s are the 'gateway drug' of the MV world as far as I can tell; he'll be buying a deuce in two years

 

[realm]

"I'm no mechanic, but I think my plan will be to over time convert as much as I can to civilian Blazer setup so it's easier to find parts and so forth and get shop help when I need it. "

So why buy a military blazer??

They look cool and it's the closest thing to a Hummer I'll ever be able to afford.

I've changed engine oil, diff oil, and installed an intake, but other than that I'm no mechanic. However, my best friend is, and I'd like to learn, so figure this may be a good opportunity, but doesn't mean I want to be totally stuck without options if I can't fix something.

 

[realm]

1. That's a fresh air vent. You have one on the passenger side as well. State-of-the-art climate control!

2. Count the number of bolt heads/look at the pattern on the differentials. There's a good recognition guide in the LMC Truck catalog, which you should get if you don't have one already. You have a three-speed transmission, so yeah, above 60mph that engine will be revved pretty high. I've done 75 with no problems other than needing earplugs.

3. Not sure about total lifetime, but keep up the fluid changes and it will last a good long while.

4. Read the TMs for all the preventative maintenance items. If the oil and filters are of unknown age, consider replacing them, same for the coolant. You will also want to hit all the grease fittings underneath the truck.

5. That leftmost switch triggers the blackout lights; up is on, down is off. Since it's on a relay the switch doesn't need to stay in the on or off position. Go out at night some time to check the B/O lights.

6. Just about everything is standard GMC truck stuff, so pretty much everyone will work on these, and parts are readily available.


The biggest common conversion is from 24V starting to 12V starting, which allows you to use the more common 12V starters. However it's not impossible to find the 24V starters (bought mine at NAPA), so you can just stay with the stock system if you want to. The other thing to do is add a drain plug to the transmission pan.

Oh, and pull the rubber floor mat if it still has one, it just invites rust. Truck bedliner is a great replacement.



Lower mileage? Attractive green paint scheme? Total absence of A/C? M1009s are the 'gateway drug' of the MV world as far as I can tell; he'll be buying a deuce in two years

Thank you for the help!

On #4, is there an easy way to find the TM's associated with the M1009? When I go to resources there's just a huge list of random manuals. I can sort through them but was wondering if there's an easier way.

On #5, so the switch pretty much does just the last way you flipped it, even if it's going back to the middle? I will test it out, thanks!

Transmission drain pan... I did that on my old Cummins so that wasn't too hard, will do.

No rubber floor mat, PO had repainted the entire thing inside and out.

If the starter is the only 24v thing to worry about then that's no problem, but I thought something with the glow plugs or something was also 24v? Or is it just a resistor that tones it down to 12v?

Thank you!

 

[mangus580]

Cucv - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

 

[papercu]

If you want to learn, first thing is find a copy of the TMs you will need a 9-2320-289-10 and a -20 to start and a -34 is next. They are on here for a free download or paper copies can be found on ebay. Good luck and Welcome. Wayne BTW In case you didn't notice, some of us think it is blasphemy to mention changing over to civilian parts.

 

[ida34]

5. That leftmost switch triggers the blackout lights; up is on, down is off. Since it's on a relay the switch doesn't need to stay in the on or off position. Go out at night some time to check the B/O lights.

One clarification. The left switch is for the black out drive. It turns the light in the grill on and off. The right switch chooses the other black out lights. One position turns on the black out marker and brake lights. Of course the middle shuts down all lights and the service turns on the regular brake light circuit and allow you to use the civvy headlight switch for the normal headlights and parking lights.

 

[dmc-4359]

If the starter is the only 24v thing to worry about then that's no problem, but I thought something with the glow plugs or something was also 24v? Or is it just a resistor that tones it down to 12v?

Thank you!

It is stepped down to 12 volts to the glow plugs by a pair of fat nasty resistors located under a heat shield just behind the air cleaner against the firewall. As far as engineering goes, this manner of 24/12 volt setup is just a stop gap. Born almost entirely of bean counting, it did manage the 'good enough' standard so there we are.

In life outside of military applications the 24 volt aspect of the electrical system enjoys a tremendous opportunity to be cumbersome. Short of having other convenient 24 volt sources around, it is easy to see some real benefits to a 12 volt conversion. Mostly because the vast majority of vehicles you will encounter are 12 volt setups.

I think the M1009 is an excellent vehicle for learning how to turn your own wrenches. Mechanically, it is one of the most simple methods of transportation and the chassis/drivetrain is so proliferate that its cheap to learn on too.

 

[Michael]

The easiest way to tell 1009 axles from 1008 is the number of lug bolts. The 1008 will have 8 and 16 inch rims. I wouldn't say that a 1009 screams at 55 but then I have a M1010 also.

Just to be sure that you know, the service drive light switch has to be set to on for the brake lights to work. You can leave it on all the time on most trucks, but some seem to drain the battery if left on.

 

[hobie237]

"I'm no mechanic, but I think my plan will be to over time convert as much as I can to civilian Blazer setup so it's easier to find parts and so forth and get shop help when I need it. "

So why buy a military blazer??

Because it's a good way to get an unmodified, generally rust free and generally inexpensive truck. Same reasons I bought the M1008, had nothing to do with the fact that it was military.


The only truly military specific stuff is the whacky starting/charging system. Since mine is operating OK, I'm in no rush to convert to 12v, but if/when I start having problems, I'm going to be taking it to 12v, because the parts are available at any auto parts store.

Any shop should be willing to work on the 95% of the truck, since it's the same as any other Blazer of the era. Most won't want to touch the 24v system, and I wouldn't want most of the shops messing around with it anyway. But hey, these trucks are fantastically easy to work on anyway.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Even the most basic understanding of the 24/12V system will reveal that the system so many refer to as a quicky measure, is really quite ingenious. I can only really see 3 reasons to switch it: 1) Jump starting from a civilian vehicle 2) Not understanding the system 3) Availability of a starter off the shelf.

 

[hobie237]

4) Availability of alternators off the shelf, 5) ability to use more modern alternators that are more reliable

 

[McCluskey]

I'm no mechanic, but I think my plan will be to over time convert as much as I can to civilian Blazer setup so it's easier to find parts and so forth and get shop help when I need it.

The M1009s are basiclly civilian Blazers with a few modifications. Namely being the engine, push gaurd, 24v starting system, and the blackout system are the only unique items. The rest are normal GM parts.

 

[mangus580]

Namely being the engine,

Umm what are you talking about?? its a standard GM engine.

 

[HardCorps79]

Umm what are you talking about?? its a standard GM engine.

He may mean it being diesel, which some folks aren't familiar with in a K5. But GM introduced the K5 Blazer with a diesel in '82, IIRC. Just my interpretation...

 

[mangus580]

He may mean it being diesel, which some folks aren't familiar with in a K5. But GM introduced the K5 Blazer with a diesel in '82, IIRC. Just my interpretation...

The 6.2 was released in 1981, and I am pretty sure it was put out across the board.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Maybe that it has the J-code non emissions engine with more power than the C-code engine the half tons usually had?

 

[Braunchitis]

The blackout switch controls the horn as well as the lights. A friend called this the "Stealth Mode" switch.

That vent by your feet comes in handy in the summer. I didn't even notice when I got mine in during a December and I wondered why my feet were always so cold in that thing. Turns out it was open and blowing freezing air over my feet. Oops.

I've gotten mine worked on at shops before. Just explain to them what's different on it (some may assume 12V system, when the truck has 12/24V, etc) from the civilian Blazers.

After one particularly annoying trip to the shop, I decided to work on it on my own. I have moderate mechanical experience, and so far all the repairs I've done have been fine, as far as I can tell. It seems to be pretty easy to work on.

Enjoy your new M1009!

 

[McCluskey]

Maybe that it has the J-code non emissions engine with more power than the C-code engine the half tons usually had?

Yes, that's what I meant essentially. It's not exactly the same kind of Diesel that GM put in their cars.