sps8072
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- Poconos, Pa
Yet another starting problem. The last owner had replaced the 24v starter w/ a 12v starter and was starting on 24v. Not good. I ran the truck around a few times, and it stopped working. Big Surprise- mea culpa. This is what happens:
I turn on the key, the idiot lights come on. The Wait to start light comes on, the glow plugs heat, light goes off. I turn key to "start" position, and hear loud "tink" as gear in starter hits flywheel, but starter does not turn.
Feeling that a mechanic should be able to fix it, I took it to a local garage. He said put a in a new starter, which he did. Prior to installing the new starter, the mechanic de-energized the system by removing the jumper cable connecting the front battery to the rear battery.
At this point, the new starter is in, - cable to front batt is on, + cable from rear batt is on, and jumper from front to rear batt is being connected. Big flash and arc. Front + post on batt partially melted. During this time, the pink cable from the power dist. block above the heater core was not connected as it was going to be connected to the front pos clamp for 12v operation of starter.
The mechanic says that there is a short in the ignition system and that the solenoid immediately gets power as soon as the battery cables get connected and you can hear "ting" (similar to glow plug solenoid). The starter power cable is still not attatched at this point.
My question is: If the ignition wire to the starter solenoid is removed and the battery cables are reconnected, with the starter power cable connected to the + post on the front battery, would this work to isolate the problem as coming from the ignition, and point towards the ignition switch?
The mechanic wants to replace the switch right away, but admits that he doesn't know 24v systems. I explained how the truck elec sys works, but I am having serious doubts as to the mechanic's ability at this point. He was unable to distinguish between a series, and a parallel w/ batteries?
Anybody have an idea what I should do? (Choking mechanic is out
).
I turn on the key, the idiot lights come on. The Wait to start light comes on, the glow plugs heat, light goes off. I turn key to "start" position, and hear loud "tink" as gear in starter hits flywheel, but starter does not turn.
Feeling that a mechanic should be able to fix it, I took it to a local garage. He said put a in a new starter, which he did. Prior to installing the new starter, the mechanic de-energized the system by removing the jumper cable connecting the front battery to the rear battery.
At this point, the new starter is in, - cable to front batt is on, + cable from rear batt is on, and jumper from front to rear batt is being connected. Big flash and arc. Front + post on batt partially melted. During this time, the pink cable from the power dist. block above the heater core was not connected as it was going to be connected to the front pos clamp for 12v operation of starter.
The mechanic says that there is a short in the ignition system and that the solenoid immediately gets power as soon as the battery cables get connected and you can hear "ting" (similar to glow plug solenoid). The starter power cable is still not attatched at this point.
My question is: If the ignition wire to the starter solenoid is removed and the battery cables are reconnected, with the starter power cable connected to the + post on the front battery, would this work to isolate the problem as coming from the ignition, and point towards the ignition switch?
The mechanic wants to replace the switch right away, but admits that he doesn't know 24v systems. I explained how the truck elec sys works, but I am having serious doubts as to the mechanic's ability at this point. He was unable to distinguish between a series, and a parallel w/ batteries?
Anybody have an idea what I should do? (Choking mechanic is out
).
?
.