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Gov. Liq. question

331
1
18
Location
Claymont, DE
I have just signed up for Gov. Liq. to try and aquire my first Deuce, and I have a BIG question :-D

These lots all start at 150, how quick do they tend to get up there (for say the deuce im looking at in Fort Meade, with a winch)?

I figured it would be a good way to get one seeing as allot of the guys who fix them up and sell them ask in the upwards of 5K for them with winch :oops:
 

OldGoat

New member
158
1
0
Location
Kentucky
The best deals are when there is a large quantity of trucks at one location. If there is only a few at one location, you will end up paying top dollar most of the time.
 

zb39

Member
440
0
16
Location
PA
Don't bother bidding untill the last hour. They will go up then. Don't forget about the 10% thing and any state tax, sometimes another 8%. Also all the paperwork and waiting and 60$ for the sf97 and probably a few more. Good luck because you will need it. Some deals are there, most aren't. GL states truck runs, yes it does, it just runs with a blown head gasket......have fun, remember it is a hobby.:-D
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,807
736
113
Location
Liberty Hill, SC
Hello, and welcome to the site!

GL can be the worst company in the world to deal with, and sometimes everything goes just fine. Some people are willing to pay several thousand dollars just to avoid the GL and paperwork hassle, so you take from that what you will.

It can be a great way to get your first truck, but you must be ready to do most or all of the following:
A. Inspect it if you can- or have someone else do it.
B. wait through several auction cycles to win one
C. Fill out an EUC
D. Wait for your EUC to clear
E. Schedule a pick up, usually some insane times like only on every 20th blue moon on a tuesday from 8:00am to 8:01am
F. Tow a truck if it isn't a runner, or get someone to haul it for you. Lots of GL lots no longer let you fix the truck on site, so see A.
G. put in all the paperwork for an SF-97
H. Wait for the SF-97
I. Play ring around the rosey with your local DMV to get it all registered and legal

Sometimes a GL transaction will go ok, rarely it will go great, but mostly you will have to check into the nut-house due to the stress.

It is an experiance to say the least, I recommend everyone try it that can. It is a good way to enter the hobby. And provide your own horror story to the mix at Rallies.

Good luck and happy bidding!
 

dk8019

Active member
797
52
28
Location
Lovettsville, VA
I've had pretty good, luck, so far 3 trucks, and two trailers, and pile of other surplused gear. (welders, compressors, rucksacks, frames, etc.) I've been lucky I think so far, EUC go rather quickly, and the trucks have all been decent, except for the one missing the rear driveshaft. :cry: It's a hobby as mentioned, be prepared for delays, and waiting etc, patience is a virtue afterall. :-D
 

MDSA

Member
705
12
18
Location
Valdese, NC
It took me a year of looking before I got my Deuce, and that was with 3 teenage boys chomping at the bit for me to take the plunge, but I waited and got a good one. I actually got mine from a retired guy. But prior to buying I watched GL and made a trip to Camp Lejeune and checked out the trucks.

I was allowed to move them a few feet at the GL lot, checking brakes, clutch, gauges, etc.

I have also found the GL guys to be good to work with. I have made two pickups of multiple trailers at different GL sites and both times were positive experiences. A lot of work, but positive.

Is there anyone near you with a deuce that you can talk to and familiarize yourself with what to look for? Go to a rally. Attend Aberdeen next year. It's a big investment so take your time.
 

BKubu

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,749
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Location
Gaithersburg, MD
Ferro has some GREAT advice for you! I agree...try to inspect whatever truck you are bidding on. Ft. Meade does not typically have 10+ M35A2s on a given auction. Figure you will have 3-7 or so to choose from. Now, the bad part...trucks at Ft. Meade tend to bring a premium. I am not sure why this is, but they do. This does not mean that you won't find a deal. I suggest you draw a line in the sand as far as price and don't go over it. Don't get caught up in the "I have to win" mentality that a lot of guys have. You will overpay if you do! When you finally win one, fight the urge to drive it out. Get your truck shipped. It is much safer. Factor shipping in when you bid. It is part of the cost of buying a truck just like tax and the 10% bidder's fee. Good luck.

What is your rough price range? Why not talk with one of the guys locally who has trucks for sale? Trucks are out there for reasonable prices AND you don't take the risk!
 

LanceRobson

Well-known member
1,638
206
63
Location
Pinnacle, Stokes County, NC
The advantage of buying from an individual is that they (or someone before them) have taken all the risk. Especially if you are not an experienced operator and mechanic on these, you take a significant risk buying one truck. Even if you inspect it, buy it "right", and think you can drive it out you could end up with a good looking truck that needs $700 in brake parts, a head gasket, a water pump, an injector pump, a transfer case, a transmission or any other part you could name. At one time or another I dealt with 'em all on either my trucks or buddies trucks.

Even after spending 29 years around these and supervising 68 mechanics at one point, I had mild butterflies the first time I bought from GL.

Sometimes prices spike early and sometimes they spike in the last few minutes.

Personally I use parts of the advice from several of the respondants to this thread.

GL bidding is "dynamic", with a 15 minute re-set. This means that if someone bids just seconds before the auction is scheduled to close, it will remain open for 15 minutes from the last bid. There's no Ebay style sniping tricks that will help.

I save all the items I'm interested in to my "watchlist" and I set an upper $ limit, before the auction starts. When the bidding gets to that figure, I'm done. I might bid early while price is low just so I can keep an eye on how the bids are coming in. If I'm going to be around the farm I'll usually wait to bid at around 15 minutes prior to the auction closes to bid.

One interesting thing is that if there are a large number of trucks at a single location you will often see trucks with early bids that are very reasonably priced which sell without spiking late. I think that what happens is folks concentrate their attention on the trucks with very low bids, then the moderate bid trucks close without competition and the last few trucks get bid to the moon. A big advantage of a large auction is that there could be several trucks that you would be willing to buy and you can wait late in the auction to concentrate on the best deal.

FWIW, I sell enough trucks and parts to make this a self supporting hobby. I am generally prepared to buy three trucks to get what I really want. I might buy a great looking low miles drop side truck with a sprag transfer case. Then I'll buy a rough truck with a winch, air shift transfer case and hard top and, maybe a third with great XLs. I'll move the winch, hard top, transfer case, tires etc to the truck I want to keep and sell the other two. That way I pay for what I keep, get my money back and, usually, make some extra to go looking for a bigger, better deal.:-D

Lance
 

m16ty

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Dickson,TN
I figured it would be a good way to get one seeing as allot of the guys who fix them up and sell them ask in the upwards of 5K for them with winch :oops:
You can find them for less than that. I know I'm a little ways from you but I have a M35A2 for sale now with a winch, hardtop, air-shift for $3,500 :wink:. It's listed in the classifieds.
 
331
1
18
Location
Claymont, DE
You can find them for less than that. I know I'm a little ways from you but I have a M35A2 for sale now with a winch, hardtop, air-shift for $3,500 :wink:. It's listed in the classifieds.
Air shif....eeeeewwwwwww, lol, i want mine all manual :twisted:

even though im stll working on driving a stick, especially larger vehicles, and hill starts :oops:
 

m16ty

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Dickson,TN
Air shif....eeeeewwwwwww, lol, i want mine all manual :twisted:

even though im stll working on driving a stick, especially larger vehicles, and hill starts :oops:
I'm talking about an air-shift transfer case. That's the kind of t-case you want if at all possible. Some of the older trucks had a sprag (automatic) t-case which will cause problems if not adjusted correctly or abused.
 

Westex

Member
579
6
18
Location
El Paso, TX
Ditto on the above posts. Also, preview what you buy if at all possible. Be mechanically inclined. Like everybody else said, be patient and have nerves of steel if you want to buy from GL. Having said that, my experience with GL has been very methodical and rewarding. Both of my trucks run, although I'm working through some nuisance issues like a corroded fuel tank, leaking speedo reducer, etc.. I've found it's best to have a plan A and a backup plan B, ESPECIALLY if you win a truck from GL and go to recover it. Welcome to the site and enjoy.
 

roscoe

New member
998
0
0
Location
Spencerville, Indiana
On the 3 trucks and 2 trailers I won from GL, I set my maximum bid and didn't even check it the final day. I was surprised to win 2 trucks on one auction as they were bid relativaly low. This helps in not overbidding.
 

greenjeepster

New member
1,773
10
0
Location
Southbury, CT
My advice is not to use auto-bid on GL. There is no way to make sure they are not driving the price up. I used it the first few years I was registered, but than stopped because I had several too many winning bids stop dead on my max:evil:

Also trust nothing they say and definitely don't trust the pictures they post. I once bought a wrench set down in Alabama and obviously could not go down there to inspect, so I called and asked to make sure the description and images where correct for the auction. YES, YES, YES, but when it arrived at my door it was a hydraulic pump on the pallet, not the wrench set I thought I won. I called them back and they said "you should have inspected before you bid" I lost my arse on that deal.

You spend a lot of time looking at GL lots and you will see a lot of file photos. My advice is not to bid if you can't inspect and it will save you from spending 4K on a 100.00 pump.
 

m16ty

Moderator
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Dickson,TN
My advice is not to use auto-bid on GL. There is no way to make sure they are not driving the price up. I used it the first few years I was registered, but than stopped because I had several too many winning bids stop dead on my max:evil:
I have to disagree with this. You can either bump it one bid at a time (which sometimes leads to bidding wars) or you can just bid your max and walk away. If you have your max in your head before you bid it makes no difference if you do it a little at a time or all at once. The only reason a auction ends on your max is more than likely just by coincidence. No other bidders know what your max is. GL would be able to know your max and could in therory make sure you pay your max but that's the only way.
 

greenjeepster

New member
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Location
Southbury, CT
No other bidders know what your max is. GL would be able to know your max and could in therory make sure you pay your max but that's the only way.
That is what I am suggesting happens at some locations. Unlike ebay where you can view the bid history and user name and percentage of activity bidders have with the seller, GL only shows "new bid" and "auto-bid" so there is no transparency. If a location wants to bump your bid up to the max they can and there is no way for us to prove that that is what is happening. Lets not forget that they get payed based on the amount of the sale, the higher the winning bid, the more they make;-)
 
331
1
18
Location
Claymont, DE
I'm talking about an air-shift transfer case. That's the kind of t-case you want if at all possible. Some of the older trucks had a sprag (automatic) t-case which will cause problems if not adjusted correctly or abused.
Any Deuces out there with a manual (cable) opertated T-case? The first Large vehicle I learned to drive on was a 60's/70's GMC with a splitshift 5 speed, the transfercase's hi/low range selector was just a pull/push knob with a cable attached on the shifter neck.

Also, anyone out near the Exton PA area? I hear there are a few deuces for sale a few miles past ATC on rt 100
 
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