Front axle problem

[2deuce]

Why are drivelines more likely to be out of balance with the CUCV's?

 

[CROM]

Akonitony: Good info! I've actually bought inner and outer bearings for both front wheels and everything that goes with them. Hopefully i can get everything changed out before kickoff today. As far as the axel, let me know when you're headed to ohio. It may be a possibility, but i think the next $200 i spent is going to be on a new tire...

Milkman: Yes! lets play in the dirt. Where in southern Ia do you guys go? I have a buddy in Creaston and one in Keokuk.

 

[coyotegray]

Why are drivelines more likely to be out of balance with the CUCV's?

For one thing, the people at GL have a bad habit of using a forklift to move them, bending the drive shafts..

 

[2deuce]

If you have a bent driveline, that is not a problem that is difficult to figure out. The out of balance driveline is not something you can look at. Probably then, he meant bent, not out of balance, which is a product of GL handling. I did have a Plymouth that had a poorly balanced driveline from the factory that caused me a vibration that was hard to find so I was thinking along those lines not forklift damage.

 

[CROM]

New problem...I just noticed that the inside sleeve to the inner wheel bearing (the old one) is seazed onto the axle. Before i start attempting to get it off, have you guys any suggestions? I really don't want to make this problem any worse by destroying stuff

 

[Chieftawny]

oopshttp://desmoines.craigslist.org/pts/1902212118.html

 

[akonitony]

New problem...I just noticed that the inside sleeve to the inner wheel bearing (the old one) is seazed onto the axle. Before i start attempting to get it off, have you guys any suggestions? I really don't want to make this problem any worse by destroying stuff

Now thare's a good mechanic! Pics are worth a thousand words when it comes to telling any of us what is wrong, but I am guessing you are talking about the spindle when you say axle. The axle is the entire assembly, the axle shafts are the actual part through which power is transferred, and in the front axle, they are the pieces joined together with a u-joint at the knuckle on each end. Anyway, if the inner sleave of the bearing is seized onto the spindle, there is not a whole lot you are going to do worse to it by trying to get it off. I would soak it in MEK, or P-blaster, or possibly some non-silicone-based brake fluid (Makes a wonderful penetrating oil), and then try tapping it off with a hammer remembering to do the rotating theme I seem to keep mentioning in all my posts. You just donn't want to get anything cocked when you are working with these parts, because then it can really be a pain to get them uncocked sometimes.
If you have been unable to get the entire hub off because of that sleeve, you can use the hub as a makeshift slide hammer. In other words, grab the rotor at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, and qickly and firmly pull it toward you, then push it back, then pull it again and repeat this until something gives. This is also the best way to remove the hub's grease seal in the back, but to do that, you take the outer bearing out first, then screw on one of the spindle nuts, then pull the hub to you until the seal pops out. Hope this helps.

 

[Milkman357]

Kinda what happened to me...

When My front wheel bearings went there was a good amount of heat generated driving it 12 miles home. I kinda had to use a BFH to get the hub off. After getting the hub off I didnt like the discoloration (from heat) of the spindle. So I replaced it with parts from the Wrench and Go.....do it yourself junkyard. I figured my spinldle might have gotten weak from the heat. Once you get the hub off, the spindle is pretty easy to remove FYI.

We arnt very good about going, my schedule is terrible, but we kno wof some very nice dirt roads.... with a small amount of rain they become MUDDY roads!

As for the balanced drive shaft, my WAG is the military didnt care about a little vibration. If your CUCV don't vibrate going down the road you may be ok....
I was willing to go ahead and spend the money and get them balanced with the new u-joints. I have big plans for my CUCV... taking the Family on an expedition...exploreing America the Beautifull, so its and insurance policy for me. This is a seperate issue than bent driveshafts from GL.... WHen I had my u joints replaced the Mechanic thought they were original, from the factory. Seems Chevy used some kinda sealant or adhesive to keep them in place...also they had no grease zerts.... they did last 25 years... maybe zerts are overrated? I'm thinking I'm going to use 4 wheel drive, on my CUCV, more than the military did.

How is your locking hub? I have one locking hub left that I took off mine, when I replaced with new hubs. The spring may be a tad weak.... I was saving it as a spare part. You need it, it's yours... If you drive your CUCV over to my place so we can oogle it. Me and my boys always like a visit from a MV! (I'm waiting for Bobert to drive the deuce by)

My one neighbor is kinda a weeny... He doesnt care for my MV and hobby... If I could get someone to park their M35A2 at my house for a week that would be awsome!

I do have people in the neighborhood who like to drive by or walk by to see what kinda project is going on.... I've got one WWII and several Vietnam Veterans who like to stop by and tell stories and look at the CUCV and my M101A2 trailer.

 

[CROM]

Milkman: It looks like i just need to cut the inside part of the wheel bearing to weaken it and use a BFH and chissel to smack it off. Then it's reassembly and ball joint replacement and hopefully more rain so i can see what else i can break . I do the same thing...wait until rain and hit the B-level roads. My buddies and I took an hour of leave last thursday just because it had rained (thrs night the bearing went!). Have you ever been over by the soccer park near SE 14th? There's some pretty good mud, rock and climbs up in there....not to mention the road leading out get covered in water every spring when the river floods...

 

[CROM]

When My front wheel bearings went there was a good amount of heat generated driving it 12 miles home. I kinda had to use a BFH to get the hub off. After getting the hub off I didnt like the discoloration (from heat) of the spindle. So I replaced it with parts from the Wrench and Go.....do it yourself junkyard. I figured my spinldle might have gotten weak from the heat. Once you get the hub off, the spindle is pretty easy to remove FYI.

I think i may end up damaging the spindle while trying to remove this piece of wheel bearing....is it just the six nuts that are right there to take off the spindle?

 

[porkysplace]

I think i may end up damaging the spindle while trying to remove this piece of wheel bearing....is it just the six nuts that are right there to take off the spindle?

the 6 bolts hold the spindle you may need to use a chiesel to break it loose. Very gently tap on the chiesel between the steering nuckle and spindle after you take the bolts out. If the race is welded to the spindle replace the spindle it may clean up but will give you problems down the road.

 

[akonitony]

If the chisel doesn't get it to come off, try a BFH and hit the end of the spindle at the 12, 6, 3, and 9 O'clock positions at about the level where the threads end.

 

[bronconut]

if that race wont slide off your spindle is gonna be bad, but you had the right idea on cutting a groove into race and using a chisel. just dont cut to deep.

 

[CROM]

Ended up getting a puller to do the job. I cut grooves through the race to weaken it, then chissled off the pieces. Got the pull tool on there and it came off....hard has ****. After i got it off, i noticed the spindle was pretty beat up...it looked like pieces of the race had conformed itself to the spindle. I used a dremmel tool and some emery paper to smooth it all out, and the rotor (with new race, seal and bearing) fit all the way on. I'm worried about how beat up the spindle is, though. I understand that the race does not move on the spindle, so since the race fits snug without the spindle being perfect will it still work?

 

[porkysplace]

unless you like being stuck on the side of the road I would replace the spindle it may work for a while but if there was pieces welded to it there is heat damage. I was with a freind of mine about 15 years ago when the weld failed on the spindle on a CJ 7 we rolled it end for end somewhere between 8 and 10 times hardly worth the risk for a $ 50 part

 

[Milkman357]

[If the race is welded to the spindle replace the spindle it may clean up but will give you problems down the road.[/QUOTE]

I agree with that. Parts are plentifull. You dont want to do teh job twice, when it fails. If it was a farm truck, and the spindle failed, and yo0u were stuck at your farm that's one thing.

Never tried the soccer fields... kinda scared of water! I'd go sometime with a 4 wheelin buddy.....

I've just noticed a Transmission fluid leak forward of the transfer case...

SO I need to get that handled. It seems ther's always something. This leak is probabbly my fault as I had the transfer case off last fall. I must not have sealed something.

Get all this redone before winter..... My bet is for more snow than last year!

 

[bronconut]

i agree with the others, replace it now or replace it all later,

 

[RANDYDIRT]

You may end up with an egg shaped spindle. This wouldn't be a problem unless the spindle deforms the bearing race when reinstalled. Egg shaped bearing races don't work well.

Dirt

 

[Chieftawny]

For $175 I'd buy those axle's i listed above and just replace the whole front axle and have a spare rear!

 

[Cucvnut]

you really wannt pull and axle and replace it when you can just put a new spindle on the truck it takes 6 bolts...