Changing tire on A3?

[jaymcb]

I planned on 55PSI, and didn't want to chance a 450 mile trip without a spare, so I was trying to get the system as close to 'possibly functioning' as possible. I'm also not looking forward to trying to wrestle a 380 pound wheel and tire out of my 109's box if I need to change a tire, but that looks like it's going to happen one way or another, because I won't have a plasma cutter like TM has to mod the toolbox, etc, to hang the 395.

 

[glcaines]

I blew a tire during the recovery of my A3 last January. I called for help to change the wheel. That was some of the best money I ever spent having those two guys change that 385 pound wheel for me at 0430 in the morning in the blowing snow. Unfortunately, I didn't watch them close enough and they screwed up some of the brass fittings on my CTIS.

55 PSI is good also. In my opinion 45 PSI is too low, but that is the max for the CTIS because the hub seals can't take the higher pressure. The wheel valve can take the pressure fine. One thing I did was to contact a couple of towing companies beforehand to make arrangements for assistance during the initial phase of the recovery if needed. Fortunately, I didn't need the help. Good luck with your truck.

 

[jaymcb]

I blew a tire during the recovery of my A3 last January. I called for help to change the wheel. That was some of the best money I ever spent having those two guys change that 385 pound wheel for me at 0430 in the morning in the blowing snow. Unfortunately, I didn't watch them close enough and they screwed up some of the brass fittings on my CTIS.

55 PSI is good also. In my opinion 45 PSI is too low, but that is the max for the CTIS because the hub seals can't take the higher pressure. The wheel valve can take the pressure fine. One thing I did was to contact a couple of towing companies beforehand to make arrangements for assistance during the initial phase of the recovery if needed. Fortunately, I didn't need the help. Good luck with your truck.

That's why I didn't want to be without a spare, and I will have some $ if I need the tire changed if it proves necessary. Thanks for sharing your experience. I am hoping there will be NO blowing snow!

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Loosen the nuts, then flip the latch, then kick the tire to get the nuts aligned up with the holes. Let the tire and wheel free fall. No sense eating a tire iron or breaking an arm.

Now that's a quick way to do it! Just make sure your other foot is nowhere near the impact point! LOL

 

[jaymcb]

ugh. the tire company says one of the O rings isn't holding. no spare now. hideous.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

ugh. the tire company says one of the O rings isn't holding. no spare now. hideous.

I've got two leaking, the spare loses air quickly, the other takes a couple days to go flat. I ordered and recieved a couple new o rings, just waiting for the impact wrench I ordered to start on that.

If it's a slow leaker and you have the gladhand hose and inflater I wouldn't sweat it much.

 

[jaymcb]

good point. have the gladhand, need to stop at wally world and get the inflator that stays on. leaving for my flight in @2PM!!!!

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Good luck Jaymcb, keep us posted.

 

[rwoods]

IN section 3-9 of that TM< there is an illustration of the CTIS valve, with a short line between the valve and the tire.

Does anyone know where a line and nut set can be obtained? I have one with a crack. If it splits, I am out of luck.

This isn't the one you have to take off to get the wheel off, but rahter the one between the CTIS valve and the tire itself. I'd hate to lose another week for one line!

That line should just be standard air brake line which you can buy by the foot from NAPA or any big truck store/shop. They should carry the right fittings as well. Ron

 

[Rustygears]

I doubt it is the o rings. A quick search of this site will show the bazillion posts on the loss of air - slow and fast - due to the rotten rubber grommet where the stem enters the rim. It also is prone to the thread rotting out on the stem for the brass nut that secures the stem through the grommet. It is really important to sil-lube that grommet to make sure it seats & seals right. Same goes for the rim o ring. Lube it good and it will never leak. If that shop works on water trucks or other heavy construction equipment, they should have grommets and o rings in stock. Erik has them for sure. Sounds like you're at the wrong shop!

I use a floor jack and wood 4x4 blocks to support the spare. I use the jack to lower. I'd never just drop it.

 

[CobraCDR]

Good luck with everything!

 

[jaymcb]

I doubt it is the o rings. A quick search of this site will show the bazillion posts on the loss of air - slow and fast - due to the rotten rubber grommet where the stem enters the rim. It also is prone to the thread rotting out on the stem for the brass nut that secures the stem through the grommet. It is really important to sil-lube that grommet to make sure it seats & seals right. Same goes for the rim o ring. Lube it good and it will never leak. If that shop works on water trucks or other heavy construction equipment, they should have grommets and o rings in stock. Erik has them for sure. Sounds like you're at the wrong shop!

I use a floor jack and wood 4x4 blocks to support the spare. I use the jack to lower. I'd never just drop it.

The grommets were changed out when the tires were changed, as were the O rings. The shop claims there is pitting/rust on the wheel, and that I need a new wheel . All this, and 'only' 525 to mount 7 tires. (Well, 6 that work, anyway)

The shop came recommended from someone I trust, but I guess I have to get used to parting with a lot of green if I want to play with my new toy.

T-minus 2 hours to the recovery.

 

[glcaines]

You can find used A3 wheels in good condition if you look. I needed a new tire and found a new tire already mounted on a wheel, and it didn't even leak. A good way is to look for posts where someone is bobbing an A3, because they will have two unused wheels. I hope your recovery went well.

 

[CobraCDR]

Can't you just clean up the rust and repaint the rim or is it rusted too badly?

 

[BadMastard]

Unless there is something seriously wrong with the rim, there shouldn't be enough rust to cause failure. Something that happened with mine was the shop thought the torque on the bolts was only 150 ft lbs, which is close to standard. It's 425-475, and that's a huge difference with sealing ability on the o ring.

Likely, just cleaning the sealing area with a wire brush, then a quick coat of paint will cure your blues.

And 525 for mount/dismount is a bit high. It was $50 a tire at commercial rates here in washington.

All in all though, good luck! Enjoy your drive!

 

[91W350]

I use a floor jack and wood 4x4 blocks to support the spare. I use the jack to lower. I'd never just drop it.

Afraid you are going to bruise the sidewalls? I have not fought the A3 spare, but have unfortunately had plenty of practice with the A2 spare. It seems like if I have a flat, t is going to be in the steering axle. I cannot get lucky enough to just remove one half of a dual and get it fixed or replaced. I know a lot of guys just drive with a flat rear, but I would be the lucky one to have it get hot and burn.

I am betting the extra diameter and weight makes a dangerous operation much worse. However you go about it, be careful. Glen

 

[glcaines]

The A3 wheel and tire is about 385 pounds. If you let the spare drop make absolutely certain that you don't have a lug wrench on the shaft. Another Steel Soldier can tell you about his hospital visit as a result of that. Also, the latching mechanism will tend to skip and let the wheel drop. When raising or lowering the wheel with a lug wrench or ratchet and socket, do not trust the latch to hold the wheel! Raising and lowering the spare with a floor jack is the safest, but not always practical.

 

[Rustygears]

Unless there is something seriously wrong with the rim, there shouldn't be enough rust to cause failure. Something that happened with mine was the shop thought the torque on the bolts was only 150 ft lbs, which is close to standard. It's 425-475, and that's a huge difference with sealing ability on the o ring.

Likely, just cleaning the sealing area with a wire brush, then a quick coat of paint will cure your blues.

And 525 for mount/dismount is a bit high. It was $50 a tire at commercial rates here in washington.

All in all though, good luck! Enjoy your drive!

Exactly right. Anytime I break down a rim, I wire brush the o ring groove and all rust. I then treat all rust spots with rust neutralizing paint and then top coat with OD. There are lots of places inside the rim halves that water can collect and rust. A little pm when changing tires can do much for prolonging rim life.

For an o ring not to seat on an A3 rim, there would need to be an extreme amount of structural rust, not just surface. My guess is that the shop has zero experience on these types of rims and either used the old o ring, tore the ring removing and tried to reuse it, didn't clean all the poop from the groove prior to reassembly, or didn't seat and torque correctly.

When I can bust and rebuild an A3 rim all by myself with nothing more than a engine hoist and impact wrench, then there's obviously something wrong with a commercial facility that f'd it up. The rim, when rebuilt with the correct parts and reasonable care, is virtually idiot proof. I'm the poster boy to prove it!