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Ok, I was wrong, M543A2 was correct the winch side case IS aluminum, so be careful tightening the new bolts, they shouldn’t have much pullout load, just shear. The bolt I removed is 2-1/2”x1/2”-13tpi, grade 5, with 1” of thread engagement, and was loose as well! This hole has about 1-1/4”...

Yep, just pull the line off the motor temporary, and dead head it into a gauge to see where your at.

I would guess the M817 parts are interchangeable. Another option if the crosshead is symmetrical, flip it over, maybe spin the cylinder rods 180 as well. See if the bed will go all the way down and just run it...

Relief pressure is supposed to be 1750+-100, if I remember correctly. It would be easy to throw a gauge on one of the lines, while you have the motor off cleaning the threads up in the holes. Don’t forget to clean and reseal the flange as well, so you dont leak gear oil. If you need to adjust...

You have any pictures or additional info you can share?

I cant remember the thread, but I think they claimed that truck supposedly ran all night like that then finally died the next morning when they where dragging it out.

Yep, as far as I know. I will try to get the test gauge on it soon, then see if it closes the switch I bought. I may be able to go back in my receipts to see exactly what I bought, or just pressure test my switch as well, to see what psi it closes at.

You have to add a N/O 1/8”npt pressure switch to the circled port There’s been several treads on cheap substitutes vs buying the switch from Alison, I cant remember the pressure threshold, but if I remember right, the one I bought is a fairly low pressure brake light switch (50 psi maybe?)...

Probably should pull power directly off the battery then, heater power is on the master switch. Also the brake light power, is switched by the 3-lever, so maybe switched brake light power is what he is addressing here? Not quite following this part...

If you want, or don’t mind switched power to the transmission reverse switch. You could tap the wire that you pulled off for the front bed marker lights, it would be relatively close to where your trans switch will be.

It wouldn’t hurt, but that lug needs to be sanded bright on both sides, new bolt, stainless nuts, and bolts are really nice, as well as brass terminals.

Too many amps... The bolt and the lug on the end of the cable is so crusty, it’s making better contact on the bolt which is arcing on the interior of the hole through the lead, melting from the inside out.

Yep, if your doing a setup similar to profo, the air cleaners gimpy has would be even better than the m939 unit. Almost a direct replacement with the exception of 6” in and outlets, instead of 5”, they also seal better, flow a lot more, elements are a ton cheaper, and open easier. I’m going to...

Thanks Toby, let us know what it looks like. Also most of the cheap $25ish pumps of varying part numbers get 3-4 star reviews. Most of the bad reviews are due to immediate, or quick developing external leaks, so you might want to throw it on ASAP, that way you can send it back if you get a...

Bumping this up with my experience, and some more info. So after reading this thread I bought the Chinese 3936316 pump for $23, and was unable to find any lift pumps that claimed to be made in the US. The size difference on the inlet can be resolved by simply adding a bushing. The big difference...

Yeh, after breaking a bunch I found out, then I started breaking shafts in the same spot as Chris (post 20) as well as joints. I found some longer shafts, cut them down and had Moser respline them without that narrowed relief in them that solved the shaft problem, but I still broke an occasional...

Ive been jealous, if you make that thing fly I’m going to be down right p*ed! Looking awesome as usual, hope your having as much fun as it looks!

75%+ tread Michelin XL 14.00R20, on combat wheel, with bead lock, NOT runflat. Eventually I would like to go to 395s like Toby to gain a little flotation, tire capacity, and hopefully a little bit of fully loaded starting torque, then crank the governor up to get back to 70mph cruise speed...

My experience with breaking u-joints, if your in abusive high load conditions, you want to avoid the the u-joints with the grease fittings in the cross. Go with either a non greasable, or a good brand with the fitting in the cap. Or if your really abusive, get one of the many, fancy new high...

Not sure if you still have the truck, or use the winch much or not, but do you notice or know of any ill affects of not using a motor spool for the winch? The only thing I can think of would be a shock load possibility, when stoping winching out a heavy load, such as using an A-frame setup for...