Search results

Gotcha, I thought I could see a pinion brake kind of in your avatar picture. Going from air shift to sprag is really unheard of. Everyone would rather have an air shift. Reliable engagement at the flip of a switch. The sprag engages when it senses slipping unless it is worn or out of adjustment.

If you're using stock brakes then you need to keep that air compressor. The air pack that acts as the brake booster is supplied with air by the compressor. It would be cheaper and A LOT less work to replace just the air compressor. There is plenty of room above the alternator on the passenger...

I would sell you mine but you're kind of far away! Why do you want to switch to the sprag? From my research, the only difference is one of the mounts uses studs and not bolts or something of that sort, but for the most part they are a direct swap. I started tearing down one of the airshift...

Is that a bolt in swap? Do the existing lines thread into that filter base?

Keep at it! Those boys will turn out good if you keep them away from the video game drug and keep them turning wrenches and learning about old school technology by your side.

For how much? They're only $20 plus shipping here: Brake Hose For M35, Rear Axles, 7373248

I have Nissan Maxima seats because they were free. If I could do it again, I would go to the junkyard and find seats with the thinnest back so I could have just a weeeee bit more room between my little belly and the steering wheel. I made my own brackets that mount to the floor.

I put in a boost gauge this weekend and I'm only getting up to 6 psi in my truck. I don't know where my fuel screw is set to though. I'm ordering a pyrometer next: Digital EGT Gauge with TC-KEGT Probe [Combo-EGT] - $85.00 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

Well, I figured I would try it as it is and see what happens. I started up the truck and I could feel all the lines, to the heater and filter, getting warm. While driving around I had good heat in the cab. When I shut down I checked and all the hoses to the heater and filter were hot and the...

I'm just trying to avoid having to change my water pump, and adding one more talking point to my deuce. ;)

I'm using normal automotive green coolant.

I'm hoping he weighs in here because I'm not sure I have my hoses and engine coolant heater in the ideal locations.

Seems like if I add a valve to block off the heater core inlet then I should get full flow to the filter when the valve is closed and then almost full flow to the heater core when open, with restricted flow to the filter due to the filter's small flow area.

Have a look at this thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/11143-cut-open-coolant-filter-deuce.html This filter is cheap insurance for the preservation of your water pump and other engine internals. Filter head: Wix 24019 & Napa 4019 Base: FleetFilter Secure...

Non taken. My post wasn't related to yours.

Yup, I got that. I was just throwing out that this isn't something I completely came up with last night for any fans following along at home.

Not related to the above post, but for the record, that is the location my heater hoses went to before I put in the filter and new hoses, and I did have good heat in the cab. Smelly, but good heat.

I read that set-up will limit flow to the heater core, since the filter will not pass full flow volume, as it is a by-pass filter. I need my cab heat. :D Looking at the filter, the orifice in the center for the return is less than 1/8" diameter.

Can someone verify my plumbing is correct? I did a lot of reading and studying pictures but I couldn't find anything matching mine exactly so I hope I got this right. I have the engine coolant heater installed down low in the water pump by generator. When I say rear or front, I mean in the...

matweb.com is a good source for material properties. They have generic materials and brand names. Just start typing things into the search at the top right of the matweb page.