Search results

Hard to tell without hearing it but I would take an educated guess that you lost a cylinder or partially lost it. Possible bent pushrod or broken rocker arm. A look under the valve cover would not hurt. May even be a broken valve spring.

You should check to see right at the batterys if indeed you have an overcharging problem first before you start throwing parts at it. Could be bad grounds, open , shorted wires or combination of all.

After that dumb move, I painted the ENGINE STOP handle bright RED!

Be careful not to assume just because the pump runs, it is pumping. The pump on my M35A2 ran but did not pump at all. I did not have your problem but the pump needs tp produce in order to properly bleed the system. If somehow air got into the system, it will be a mother to bleed the system. Some...

I did it just once but wont do it again. Good thing I was in my driveway cause I would have felt like a jerk if anyone was around. Wasn't paying attention and grabbed the wrong one.

Shane, welcome to Steel Soldiers. Sorry I don't have the information that you need but maybe someone else on here will. The thing that I would do is search pictures and info about the Hummer and try to incorporate that into your Jeep. I think that would be a good start. Good luck in your project...

The internal parts of these transmissions are mostly steel and will freeze up if not used for a long period of time. Check the driven cone and make sure it is not stuck to the stationary cone that is in the reduction unit. TM9-8025-2 is the transmission manual you need to get if you own one of...

There will always be plenty of women to choose from but can you say that about military vehicles? If she gives you a choice of her or your toys, shes not the one for you anyway!

My truck had hard starting problems until I figured out the fuel pump was not pumping. It was running but not pumping. The pump was very loud and was not a normal sound for an in-tank mounted pump.

I would check the camshaft for worn lobes. Had a motor do this because it was driven under a load with a bad cam.

Hey emr, I have been a auto and truck tech for a long time and when I had problems with my tranny in my M-211 , I called majortom with the symptoms and he hit the nail on the head the first time so I would say he is VERY knowledgeable about these trucks. I'm sure he will help anyone that asks...

Krylon goes on awesome and drys quickly. Truck looks real good HeadWizard.

I now have to write a thousand times, "I will not post in the wrong forum":roll:

I have a rebuilt unit in my M-211. The rebuider said to use dexron II. That is a little scarce these days so I used ATF muti-vehicle Dexron III. No problems at all with that fluid for me. One thing to consider is the materials used in the 50's were different than the later produced ones so...

One thing you have to remember. The gear ratio's of these trucks makes everything spin faster than a normal vehicle. Hence more heat. A bad bearing in any componant will make it run warmer than normal. You have to figure out what is normal first before you start to get worried. These trucks were...

On the front part of the tranny pan you will see a oval cover. Drain the coolant and remove the cover. The tranny cooler is under the cover. Check to see if there is crud and grime built up under the cooler. If there is and you don't clean it out, no matter what kind of fluid or heat reducer you...

Now that you mention it, I really don't know exactly. I started out with 10 cans and just kept buying them as I needed them. The truck already had a good base, I just freshened it up a bit. Walmart has Krylon camo paint for 3.00 and some change a can. Probably spent about 100.00 or so on paint...

My intank pump was running but did not pump any fuel. Replaced it and now it's fine.

Thanks Jay! I pretty much kept your pattern with a few small changes but went over the whole truck.

Here are a couple more.