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I would not conflate the cracked water pump housing with the second water pump seals leaking. The two are unrelated. Where do you stand right now? You have the vehicle, it is operable, but the water pump is leaking at the shaft seal. You also have a vibration upon deceleration. The alternator...

X-9 solar flare plus a coronal mass ejection has nearly arrived. www.spaceweather.com I thought you Apple guys never had problems.. Seriously, probably just a glitch. Have a beer, wait it out.

That took seconds and I am using a C-crane wifi antenna to get a signal from the lodge 200 yards away which is on satellite internet atop a 9,000ft mountain plateau 30 miles from the nearest town with zero cell signal and while a coronal mass ejection is impacting the Earth's magnetosphere...

So the first water pump failed due to a cracked housing. Then the alternator bracket came loose twice. What happened to the second water pump? If the housing of the second pump also cracked it sure sounds like you have bad harmonics in the accessory drive belt. You ought to be able to observe...

Got my M1009 running today after swapping in a rebuilt fuel injection pump by Oregon Fuel Injection. Unfortunately my brand new radiator had a leak right out of the box. So I was only able to run it a little bit. What surprised me was how quickly it started. I thought about cracking the fuel...

The first water pump was cracked. What happened to the second water pump? You said it "blew". How exactly did it fail? As for clogged radiator or blown head gasket causing a water pump failure, no way. The radiator cap would relieve the pressure in the system and in any event causing enough...

As for the driveline angles after a lift kit; If you are using the stock driveshaft and it has 2 u-joints total. The two u-joints should rotate on a parallel plane to each other. For a cardan shaft (typical front driveshaft m1009) with 3 u-joints, you point the pinion directly at the output of...

Speed related growling sound. Sounds like a pinion bearing. Since the front was unlocked and driveshaft no turning, it most likely is the rear. How about removing the rear driveshaft and taping a soda bottle over the output of the transfer case and then locking it into 4wd and carefully driving...

1350 u-joint has outside snap rings that fit in the yoke to hold the u-joint caps in. 3R u-joint is glued in or has inside snap rings that fit the u-joint caps inside the yoke.

You are looking for the 3R version of an NP208 transfercase slip yoke. If your old shaft is original the u-joint may be glued in place. GM did that. You can just remove the factory u-joints using an arbor press and install new 3R u-joints with inside clips. The bad thing is; by replacing that...

Why did you have to replace all those seals and brake shoes every time you went through the mud pit? Three words; Hollister Hills Mud. As for the rest; my vents were probably blocked by the many passes through the mud pit previously and improper maintenance in between. As for the motor...

Rust is why I am finally ditching my 1976 K5 for this 1986 M1009. The old K5 has cracks in the frame, holes in the floor, the doors don't shut right due to rust, and the drivers side hood hinge broke the last time I forded the Wood river near Meeteetse. I can't tell you how disappointing it is...

This has been my experience with civilian Blazers and Suburbans as well as Willys Jeeps as well. They can keep water and mud out during a quick ford but if you get stuck for long, all the heat in the axles and engine being quenched in cold water of mud creates a vaccum in them that draw water...

Beginning the tear down to replace my Injection pump, water pump, and radiator. Oregon fuel injection built me a pump which I ran to town to get today on my day off from lodge duties. I have a Delco water pump coming in the mail. A Brand new brass and copper radiator is on the way from Oklahoma...

Well I smacked the outer ring of that old stock harmonic balancer with my Renegade Stiletto framing hammer for you. Nothing happened. The outer ring is still intact and did not shift at all. I would say the rubber and whatever bonding they did is still intact. This one had 93,000 miles on it...

Thank You! That is what it looks like. Glad to have confirmation.

From what I can tell the major difficulty of replacing the injection pump on the 6.2 is getting at the timing gear bolts through the oil fill tube. So since my radiator was shot from corrosion I have ordered a Delco water pump as well. I am thinking that while I have the water pump out that...

I'll try that. I wasn't so much concerned about it falling off as I was about it's ability to absorb torsional shock. But since I don't for see any further use for it, I am throwing it away, might as well smack it with a hammer first.

Miller Fab says that radiator is shot. By the time he cleans it out the whole bottom would be swiss cheese due to the corrosion. Basically the corrosion was holding the radiator together. No problem. He is going to find me a replacement. I also found a radiator on Rock Auto but I'll let my local...

If the straps ever got loose and allowed the u-joint caps to rock it will wallow out the saddles. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1025_9980884_pinion_yoke_30_spline_3r_series_for_chevy_and_gm_8.5.html Part#: 9980884...