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Mine had the same problem, whatever was under there crumbles away, you can actually see it there piled up on the seam of your cab. None of the parts breakdowns that I could find actually show that bushing, I think it is actually sprayed in there. I replaced mine with a bunch of rubber O-rings...

Other than the exhaust issue, how did the oil pump swap go?

The thought didn’t cross my mind to completely stop, but It would’ve been no problem. In 1st the truck has a huge amount of torque available. 1st is basically a granny gear, I could have started and stopped on a steeper hill even. Next time I am out and about I will try that. In regards to MPG...

I’m not sure this would be considered rock crawling, but I took a video climbing up what we are thinking was a 30 degree trail. I left it in 1st and it climbed like a champ absolutely no concerns at all. I bet it would have climbed it in 2nd no prob, but 1st was pretty nice, I could wind it out...

Wow that’s just awesome!

Is your tounge extension something you built or is it available as a kit?

Hello your VIN: A-T020200BFDN Breaks down as follows. A- = LMTV CARGO T = Troop Seat Kit 020200 = Unit (Serial) Number B = Camoflage, Green 383 F = M005 A1 Model D = April N = 2003 My truck and trailer are both very close in serial number to yours: 020793 Truck June 2003 020833 Trailer June...

Thanks! Those videos were all with the truck in 2nd gear. I did try manually selecting 1st gear earlier in the day, but that was pretty much a granny gear and I mainly wanted to compare performance in 2nd and up. It seems to me in all but the most extreme cases, you can get by staying in “D”...

I wanted to try the ECO Hubs in the sand and finally got a chance this weekend. 2nd gear off the line takeoff is the only place I have noticed a hit in performance since deleting the 2:1 hubs with the ECO hubs. I was a little concerned that it would impact my ability to get rolling, or...

I just did this myself when I changed my oil pump. 6 gallons of CAT oil still didn’t fill it up so I bought a gallon of delo at the local Napa and had toput another 2 quarts or so in, definitely give it time to drain down after adding.

Appreciate you taking the time to look at my videos and coming up with the numbers. To be clear, I never thought that the fuel consumption would be cut in half, what I said was: "A 50% reduction in rpm manifests less than 5% better MPG in your mind?" What I was trying to convey with that...

Back to this point for a moment. Your own data on the 3116 shows a 50% increase in Fuel consumption between 1200RPM and 2600RPM at full load (dyno test). Now you also say at some lower load, that consumption delta drops all the way down to 5%. That didn't make any sense to me but I figured that...

That is an interesting study, they were able to gain 22% efficiency out of the FMTVs by testing other transmission and gear ratio combinations. I my opinion, the most relevant part from their conclusions to this discussion: "The key enabler to the 22% improvement is the final drive ratio."

The whole discussion really centers around this particular bit of data. Would a legitimate test be to datalog the fuel consumption rate at a set speed before and after the hub change, with all other factors being equal ?

With stock gearing, it essentially required 2800 RPM to hit 62mph. Deleting the reduction hubs basically halves that to do the same work. A 50% reduction in rpm manifests less than 5% better MPG in your mind? Any sceptic can test this immediately by simply driving their daily driver around in...

My observation is that the uphill performance doesn’t change. What gear you need to maintain the previous speed does. So if you used to climb the hill in 7th gear, you might be down in 4th or 5th for the climb. I have the same truck as you minus the high speed gears, and I put my M1082 trailer...

Well, if your broke anyways, just run it until it blows. You never know, that thing might run for a long time. In the mean time start saving your pennys for the eventual rebuild.

I would say, across the board the pressures are better. My previous oil pump wasn’t terrible, but sometimes in the summer, I would occasionally get the low oil light on while idling. Last night on the test drive I got the oil to 200F and it still maintained 40 psi at idle, which it couldn’t do...

I changed my oil pump this weekend on a 3126B . Not much to add other than the top drivers side bolt of the oil cooler mount required 2 different 7/8 12 point wrenches to be able to make the bolt rotate in the tiny space available. A ratcheting wrench wouldn’t fit. Also, I zip tied the tranny...

Just pull the front and rear E-clips and take it off the shafts, then you can test it with the warmup button for function check. My unit was also seized when I got it, but squirting high temp lube and working the butterfly valve got it back to smooth after a while.