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No.... Adding only one to the front would provide no benefit (and may cause accelerated wear?)... There needs to be two in front to get the mass of the diff + drive shaft to stop spinning, and one in the rear to unlock the middle axle.

Have you checked the booster pump on the side of the IP? It's the little gear pump that the fuel lines go in and out of.... Fuel lines between that and the hydraulic head should be around 60psi if I recall correctly.... If that's okay, it probably is something in the injector pump body...

I showed my deuce at the air show, and the issue of liability crossed my mind.... It took vigilance to keep the kids in check, and we learned some lessons for next year, but I wasn't too worried. "You can't get blood from a turnip." .....Suing me would be pointless. Besides, you should have...

That's what I was thinking! I don't care if they see me in all my glory... Maybe then the soccer mom would come back by without the kids?

Awesome! Looks like you could have used a 4-53T if you wanted to...

Hi Group, A few weeks ago while I was working on my M1009 Blazer, I managed to break my arm (fractured ulna)..... I was kneeling on the brush guard with my right hand on the air cleaner while I looked carefully for fuel leaks after replacing my IP. I went to get down onto an upside down...

Mine is doing the same thing.... Heard a clunking sound when backing up, got under to check the drive shafts and bolts. Center axle's pinion shaft has a lot of slop so I need to do the same thing as you. I haven't checked the TM to see what it entails yet.... Jon

You've got the disease (od iron addiction) very bad indeed! 8)

I didn't know it was that high.... With copper lines? :shock:

Hello Group, It seems to be the habit here lately to not answer questions that have been covered a number of times in past threads.... Instead, members and moderators alike post that people should use the search function. The problem with this is that the search results for popular topics...

The author says: Which is probably true, but any mechanically injected diesel that has a pump cooled and lubricated by the fuel DOES need an additive if you want it to live a long time! The Stanadyne DB2 pumps certainly fall into this category.... Stanadyne themselves even published a study...

Hey Marcus! I hadn't noticed you had posted to my old thread, thanks for the help. I have that manual.... The problem isn't really adjusting it, it's that the slave unit / throttle body portion of the governor is seized up. It looks like there are ball bearings on both ends of the butterfly...

Well, okay.... It's as far as you can go and still get the little cover back on. The cover touches the end of the stud with the two nuts on it. The reason I want to turn it down is that it gets too hot too quickly. I'm WAY beyond where most deuce owners turn their fuel to and are satisfied...

Most people don't realize how cold it gets in the desert.... There have been several times the past few years where the temps got down into the low teens and single digits. I've started my deuce after a night in these conditions, and it fired up with only about 1 second of cranking. Jon

Thanks for the info!

My fuel is turned ALL THE WAY UP! ....I didn't do it, it came from the government that way. When I got it I was surprised how "good" it ran... 55 up hills and such. Will Wagner suggested a pyro after witnessing the power for himself, and after I installed it I was shocked how hot the engine...

I'd check simple stuff first, like the primary fuel filter......

It definitely won't.... The outer bearing will not fit past the slightly larger diameter that the inside bearing rides on. 0% chance of mixing inner and outer.

Me too.... At night, I see them come on and go out as I move the shifter out of park. This stuff is adjustable somewhere, but I haven't gone through the TM yet to see how it's done. Jon

Here's the link to the Recovry4x4 style power bleeder, This is what I made and it works fantastic. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/3229-deuce-power-bleeder-r4x4-style.html