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Once you get those old bolts out make sure the inside diameter & threads were not compromised.

The biggest question now is; “what caused those bolts to shear off”? Have you flat towed the truck with the brakes cages? I’m wondering if there’s a problem in the transmission or drive train that caused this? Did some knucklehead try to recover this vehicle and cause this damage through...

Thank you. I am not anticipating getting it done in one day. Like you, I own more tools than a man should ever need. I am not inclined to rent a mag base drill. I’ll more than likely incrementally drill bigger holes until I get to 3/4” - 19mm.

IIRC?

A couple of questions if you don’t mind. 1) How long did the entire job take? 2) Was / were there any tools, materials, or supplies you should have on hand that you hadn’t thought about? 3) The TM doesn’t say to remove the shock completely; it just says to “move (rotate top) away & out of the...

Piece by piece, step by step. Enjoy!

The “B-5” indicates the vehicle was in Bravo Company, Troop, Squadron, or so on. In the Army 1’s we’re S1’s, 2 =S2’s, 3’a = S3’s, 4 = S4’s, 5 = XO’s, 6 = Commanders, 7’s are 1SG’s or CSM’s. B-5 (in the Army) would have been a Company XO.

Except for the 1st photo, my fingernail didn’t catch on to anything. I’ll check again in the AM but Photo 2 was more of a shiny versus dull appearance. I didn’t see any burnishing despite that grease smelling toasted.

Jacked up both rear axles & removed the rear driveshaft. Those caps played stubborn but finally came out. I’ve smelt burnt trans fluid, burnt differential gear oil, and burnt wheel bearing grease but today is the first time in more than 61 years on this planet that I ever smelt burnt u-joint...

Problems such as? It’s a dirty job but not overly difficult. Are you sure it’s an axle seal? If you are, get replacement shoes and lots of brake kleen. You might be well advised to buy a CV boot at the same time.

The drag link is often overlooked!

I’ve had one done thus far but will get the other 2 done. 2 of my driveshafts show signs of ‘injury’ which made me suspect of them. It also may be why I have a ‘limp’ when driving. I’ve been buying u-joints and need one more for the final (front) driveshaft. I did the intermediate axle 1st...

In NYS, they simply added zeroes to my Serial # to be able to fill the data requirement. I agree with Mullaney - those #’s need to match. In my case, though, I will rely on the data plates still mounted to the truck and all of the original paperwork that came with it to explain why DMV added...

I’ll double-check. I may have fat fingered the # typing it.

Let’s revive this - with a twist! I picked up 2 ARE 9,000 btu 115v a/c units. NSN: 4120-01-136-2214. I have not been able to ascertain a Model #. These are 1ph, 50/60hertz The TM’s I found appear to be 9-4120-378-14 & 378-24P. Unless my eyes have completely failed me I cannot find that...

Do you know the process for correcting the DL angle - if it’s off?